HW/Weihrauch HW 55

[1975HW55]

Help !
Barrel latch screw was loose. Did not notice. Barrel latch lever now stuck halfway on/halfway off shaft. Too far off for threads of retaining screw to engage threaded hole in shaft lever is mounted on. Lever will not come off or push all the way back on.
Suggestions anyone ?
Thanks !

 

[jccams]

Pictures would be a big help.

 

[A.G.R]

need pics.

 

[1975HW55]

Pictures. Will not push or tap back on. Will not pull off.

 

[Michigander]

Looks like there is a flat for anti-rotation. The lever could be stuck because the flat on the lever is not lined up with the flat on the shaft. If that is the case, tap the lever to line the two flats up before trying to remove or push the lever back on. You definitely don’t want to force the lever on unless the flats or whatever anti-rotation features are present are lined up properly. Some clean up may be required once you get it off to remove any burrs that may have been kicked up.

 

[marflow 777]

okay i would find a hard but non marring something the put between the handle and tube and find a screw and or bolt for the shaft and tap the shaft off the handle
now i am assuming that the shaft will back out in the position that it is in
will it make the damage worse more than like not i see no flats on the small amount of shaft showing so a wrench to hold the shaft could not work but again i am assume that

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

Protect the receiver behind the lever with several layers of blue painters tape. Find a small Allen wrench that will clear the threads of the bolt. Cut the Allen wrench to straight. They are very hard. Carefully insert the Allen into the bottom of the bolt hole. Careful to keep the Allen clear of the threads. Gently tap the bolt out. If you have piece of hardwood, drill a large enough hole in it to allow the bolt head to clear, tape off the receiver on the bolt head side and when tapping the bolt out you have a good hard surface to tap against. You also can use a vise in stead of a hammer. Lining everything up is tricky but the control and pressure from a vise is best.

 

[1975HW55]

Many heads are better than one.
Thank you gentlemen !
With a combination of tips from all of you parts were removed with minimal damage !
It is a press fit with a key in the lever and a keyway in the shaft.
Back together as you can see.
You can be sure I will be checking the lever retaining screw regularly from now on.
Now, back to offhand(standing position) practice.
Thanks again !

 

[jccams]

Many heads are better than one.
Thank you gentlemen !
With a combination of tips from all of you parts were removed with minimal damage !
It is a press fit with a key in the lever and a keyway in the shaft.
Back together as you can see.
You can be sure I will be checking the lever retaining screw regularly from now on.
Now, back to offhand(standing position) practice.
Thanks again !

View attachment 536614

This is a great site, many helpful folks. Glad you got her up and running again.

 

[MDriskill]

See...I told ya these guys would be way better than the crowd over at "General Discussion," LOL!

De-grease that lever screw, snug it up good, and commence to shootin'. We wanna see pics of that beauty when it's back together, too.

 

[1975HW55]

Done.
Thanks again !

 

[1975HW55]

Hi Gentlemen, another question.
1960's HW35E found at gun show in early 70's
Did a Robert Law(old ARH) Super tune myself back then.
Rifle has been shot a lot!!!
Just took apart due to sudden velocity loss.
Needs spring.
Lump of metal at 12:00 above transfer port at juncture of end plug and wall of tube.
Puts a 1/16 inch deep dent 3/16 inch around front edge of piston seal.
Does this serve any function with regard to airflow ?
Should I leave it or remove it ?

 

[A.G.R]

It’s brazing from the poor installation by HW with their antiquated method. It’s needs to come out. Wood dowel or something to sand it or take it off. It’s NOT GOING TO BE EASY but it will ruin every seal you put in it.

 

[1975HW55]

Synthetic, yes. Leather no.
Been shooting it since I bought it used in early 70's.
Use Robert Law( old ARH) silicone piston seal oil. Getting low though.
If anyone knows what is in that stuff please let me know.
Thinking I should remove the lump though as you suggested.
Leather piston seal in good shape. Going back in with new spring.

 

[A.G.R]

Shine a light. It’s silver solder. ,it’s how they held the forks on. Common issue on many.

 

[1975HW55]

Material is gold colored after rubbing with sandpaper ring on end of a dowel.
Brazing ?

 

[A.G.R]

Material is gold colored after rubbing with sandpaper ring on end of a dowel.
Brazing ?

Then is brazing rod. Brass mix. It’s hard stuff. Get a dowel and glue some round sand paper pads on it. Center a driving rod. (A bolt with no threads up top) And cut it off for a drill Chuck to bite on smoothly. It has to be concentric or anything over 10 inches will oscillate

Then it’s , put pressure on the area. If it’s on the side walls ,your better off going to the bar as you will gouge the walls.. it’s a tough job to do .. worse case unsolder it’s and clean and re solder and re blue. At least you save the tube or you go to the bar and wash your hands of it.

 

[1975HW55]

Either way a project. Need a hacksaw hole saw blade exactly the right size. Forks plug has a slight taper on end that creates a thin groove around the outside edge between the plug and the tube. Interesting result. The leather piston seal forms a short thin lip around its outside edge from trying to fill in the groove. By design for a better seal or just a byproduct of the slight taper on the end of the plug which would make it easier to assemble before brazing ?

 

[A.G.R]

In most forks there is a small crack. Fill it with retainer 680 under vacume psi with the piston itself. Getting the slag off is the issue. Without forking up the walls.

 

[KWK]

Like OP said it’s probably not hurting a leather seal. Would confirm to it. But getting it out ain’t that hard. I just saw someone do it. But
Why scratch what doesn’t itch?
Didn’t hurt the seal in the first 50 years.