HW/Weihrauch HW 80 build .22 long rifle.

[BABz58]

Thanks again fellas.

Thank you Mr, Driskill and to you all.
My Eyes see and , my heart fallows the old sporter lines of Weatherby , Fajen, … I love roll over sporters.

Can I message you about possibly making a stock for me?
I’d supply the wood blank

 

[beerthief]

This is a older HW 80 ,.22 I made for myself. I rarely use any barrel longer than 13 inches shrouded, to 17 with some internal work . However; I wanted this gun to look like a classic Remington 700 look

It’s very accurate but took some time to get used to the ballance of 500mm barrel.
20 ft lbs and a breeze to cock with a 29 coil spring and custom guides and top hat, minor port work.
Since I never use sights I machined the breech to match the chamber like a Uk Tommy. Reblued to factory finish..

custom feather crotch walnut stock.

Shot cycle is dead ,but a louder snap than I’m used to as there is no shroud.
Time to checker the custom feather crotch Claro walnut
View attachment 504669View attachment 504668View attachment 504671View attachment 504670View attachment 504672

i ordered a custom stock (UK) with no checkering , i think it would be wrong to checker that piece of wood .
P.S. i really like my plain stock .

 

[A.G.R]

i ordered a custom stock (UK) with no checkering , i think it would be wrong to checker that piece of wood .
P.S. i really like my plain stock .

Albeit, functional ,I shape my stocks to fit exactly The hand of mine. I like Checkering, it not only makes the stock finished, but is functional. May I quote the late great Jerry Fisher, “a stock isn’t finished until it’s checkered” JF

When done right it don’t hide the grain. To many people seal and fill and hide the diamonds and what’s under.

 

[Star7]

That is a very elegant, smoothly flowing design. So many AG have tree trunk wrists that pretty well destroy the looks. Your design is to my eye, flawless. I look forward to seeing what checkering pattern you use.

 

[r1lover]

This is a older HW 80 ,.22 I made for myself. I rarely use any barrel longer than 13 inches shrouded, to 17 with some internal work . However; I wanted this gun to look like a classic Remington 700 look

It’s very accurate but took some time to get used to the ballance of 500mm barrel.
20 ft lbs and a breeze to cock with a 29 coil spring and custom guides and top hat, minor port work.
Since I never use sights I machined the breech to match the chamber like a Uk Tommy. Reblued to factory finish..

custom feather crotch walnut stock.

Shot cycle is dead ,but a louder snap than I’m used to as there is no shroud.
Time to checker the custom feather crotch Claro walnut
View attachment 504669View attachment 504668View attachment 504671View attachment 504670View attachment 504672

I can't add anything that hasn't already been said except I really like the way you brought the top of the barrel block down to match the line of the compression tube. What did you fill the rear sight screw holes with?

 

[A.G.R]

I can't add anything that hasn't already been said except I really like the way you brought the top of the barrel block down to match the line of the compression tube. What did you fill the rear sight screw holes with?

I used screws and machined them off. Ive I welded them full with no visible seam but you always get heat transfer when blueing. Its extremely hard unless you know the exact metal and use the same tig rod ,even then it’s a 50 /50 chance of seeing them. Its why I look for the unsighted breech blocks to use. No holes to begin with. This is an example of a heat transfer line from the factory At the forks .. Not always visible in every lighting and angles but there.

 

[KWK]

I used screws and machined them off. Ive I welded them full with no visible seam but you always get heat transfer when blueing. Its extremely hard unless you know the exact metal and use the same tig rod ,even then it’s a 50 /50 chance of seeing them. Its why I look for the unsighted breech blocks to use. No holes to begin with. This is an example of a heat transfer line from the factory At the forks .. Not always visible in every lighting and angles but there. View attachment 511756

View attachment 511757

You know I always admire your work.
About the best you can do is counterbore the screw holes slightly oversize. Make screws with a shank same diameter as the counterbore. We need "3 threads in the work" minimum. Install them. Now cut them off slightly proud. Peen the tops of the screws to fill out the holes tightly before you machine them off. Now the marks are at least perfectly round and virtually seamless.

 

[A.G.R]

I have

You know I always admire your work.
About the best you can do is counterbore the screw holes slightly oversize. Make screws with a shank same diameter as the counterbore. We need "3 threads in the work" minimum. Install them. Now cut them off slightly proud. Peen the tops of the screws to fill out the holes tightly before you machine them off. Now the marks are at least perfectly round and virtually seamless.

I have tried it. Because of the round top they still show. I just deal with them when I have a block With screw holes ..I have welded them with satin bluing and got better results. As it hides but I would rather not deal with uncontrolled heat blobs. Round screws flush are better looking to me. The best blocks are the HW WITH NO SIGHTS obviously.