HW100 - can they go really low pwr?

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The hammer spring tension is easily adjustable. Just remove the rear cap, it's two screws. If it's never been adjusted, you may have to loosen a set screw in the hammer shuttle. Still doesn't require disassembly. I just remove the setscrew and toss it in the trash. It's should go as low as you need. Keep in mind that the German market is limited to about 6fpe. So they should go at least that low. I know I've had my .177 down to 8fpe at 90BAR regulator pressure easily. 

The only hiccup is if yours is a UK model. If so, you'll need to deal with the anti-tamper crap on the hammer. 


 
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Right, all those should be unrestricted. 

You could likely still order a 12fpe model from Krale. That would be a better start if you actually plan to keep it low power, and also you won't get stuck with a mile long barrel like the FAC guns. 

And at that power, you could get an actual carbine and still keep a decent shot count. 

Starting with a full power gun, you'll need to turn the regulator down for optimum efficiency. With a 12fpe model, probably not. 

An FAC carbine with the long barrel is pretty pointless in all honesty. It's still long, and you get stuck with the small cylinder for a piss poor shot count. 


 
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Both HST and regulator are easily adjustable. But, I'm not sure about going from FAC to sub-12 fpe levels of power. I believe some rifles require different spring and/or hammer for that level of adjustment.
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I've heard that too. But, I have both a 12fpe and FAC hammer spring, and they are the exact same. The hammers are the same. My belleville washers were exactly the same and weren't stacked differently as the UK guys claim for the FAC guns. 

I spent a lot of time fooling with mine, and at the end of the day just turning it down was all it needed to be tuned for 12fpe. 

The newest high power .22s may be different, I haven't messed with one. But my current production .177 FAC and my 2004 FAC .22 had the same internals and adjust down fine. 

Hard to get good info on this, since most info comes from the UK where these rifles are most popular and obviously are all sub 12fpe. 

So who really knows, lol. 




 
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If you plan on tinkering why not buy the one on AGW for cheap the guys literally stuck with it it's $625 been a long time no takers comes with extra cylinder why not put a HUMA in the extra screw on cylinder to restrict it (dual regulators baby!) for you low power shooting then just Swap back to regular power by simply unscrewing them air tubes like Hatsan. They can easily be swapped while under pressure. The extra OEM HW100 tube alone is like $300 I know I bought a spare cylinder.

I'm losing sleep seeing this one still there. I'll probably buy it just for the spare air cylinder if you dont. Not like I REALLY NEED ANOTHER HW100 since I already got roughly around twenty of them plus the HW110s I bought already past a dozen probably closer to 20 too but definitely got more HW100s.

https://airgunwarriors.com/classifieds/show-ad/13027/wts-hw100s-177-new-price/airguns-pcp/


 
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This thread brings up a question. I've not needed to adjust either of my HW100 carbines beyond slight hammer spring adjustments. I know where the reg adjustment screw is located, and it's easy to access once the two action modules are separated. My question, do you need to drain the reg plenum of air before any adjustment to it and, if so, how? Seems that increasing pressure on the washers could be damaging if the plenum is pressurized. I know there is a tapped hole where a reg tester can be installed, so I guess that's probably the answer. 
 
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If you plan on tinkering why not buy the one on AGW for cheap the guys literally stuck with it it's $625 been a long time no takers comes with extra cylinder why not put a HUMA in the extra screw on cylinder to restrict it (dual regulators baby!) for you low power shooting then just Swap back to regular power by simply unscrewing them air tubes like Hatsan. They can easily be swapped while under pressure. The extra OEM HW100 tube alone is like $300 I know I bought a spare cylinder.

I'm losing sleep seeing this one still there. I'll probably buy it just for the spare air cylinder if you dont. Not like I REALLY NEED ANOTHER HW100 since I already got roughly around twenty of them plus the HW110s I bought already past a dozen probably closer to 20 too but definitely got more HW100s.

https://airgunwarriors.com/classifieds/show-ad/13027/wts-hw100s-177-new-price/airguns-pcp/

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Because you'd still have to adjust the hammer tension to have it shoot right after dropping the regulator pressure by that much. 

It makes no difference how many HW100s you have sitting around rotting in the corner due to compulsive hoarding syndrome. You never post pics of them, or even post any specifics about how any of them perform or how you have actually done anything to them. Put a HUMA in one of your two dozen HW100s and "dual regulate" it and show us how it works. That would be helpful.
 
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This thread brings up a question. I've not needed to adjust either of my HW100 carbines beyond slight hammer spring adjustments. I know where the reg adjustment screw is located, and it's easy to access once the two action modules are separated. My question, do you need to drain the reg plenum of air before any adjustment to it and, if so, how? Seems that increasing pressure on the washers could be damaging if the plenum is pressurized. I know there is a tapped hole where a reg tester can be installed, so I guess that's probably the answer.
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Remove the cylinder and this will empty the entire gun and reg chamber of air. Then install the gauge in the hole (after removing the screw, ball, and mashed oring). Then reinstall the cylinder. 

I have always adjusted my regulator under pressure. I can't say that it's the absolute proper way to do it, but it's never hurt anything in mine and it's been adjusted A LOT in my old one and still runs the original belleville washers. If you adjust it lower in pressure, you will need to bolt the action back together and fire a couple shots to see the change you've made. 

But if you are concerned, just unscrew the cylinder and watch the reg gauge. You'll hear it hiss, and the gauge will drop. Now make your adjustment (very small turns make a big change!) and screw the cylinder back on and it will refill. Be sure to make a couple shots after each adjustment and then check the pressure, to give the plenum time to equalize and to watch the recovery time of the regulator. When it's right, it should be almost instant recovery, the needle will simply snap back to set pressure right at the shot. 
 
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I don't know why people always hate on Odoyle. The man has helped me on projects I've had numerous times. I have no idea how many guns he has or does not have but when I have a gun apart and stuck on something I always talk to him and he always takes the time to write out a detailed response that makes sense. It just seems retarded at this point for you guys give him so much hell. It's not like he said something bad about your mama or something. He just gave some advice. Yall seem very sensitive. 
 
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I don't know why people always hate on Odoyle. The man has helped me on projects I've had numerous times. I have no idea how many guns he has or does not have but when I have a gun apart and stuck on something I always talk to him and he always takes the time to write out a detailed response that makes sense. It just seems retarded at this point for you guys give him so much hell. It's not like he said something bad about your mama or something. He just gave some advice. Yall seem very sensitive.
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I'm not hating on anybody, I'm just stating that it doesn't matter how many guns he has if he doesn't offer any usable advice. If he has actually done the HUMA thing then tell us about it! Don't lead people to believe an idea will work if you don't actually know if it will. From fooling with tuning these things, I can tell you, that it won't work like that, that's all. 

And for the record, how many of you here actually know who Odoyle REALLY IS? If you have been around the airgun forums for a long time, you should be aware of his "colorful" history over the years. I'll leave it at that. 

Again, I'm not hating on anybody, not even Odoyle. But I will call bull when I see it. 
 
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why not put a HUMA in the extra screw on cylinder to restrict it (dual regulators baby!) for you low power shooting then just Swap back to regular power by simply unscrewing them air tubes like Hatsan. They can easily be swapped while under pressure. The extra OEM HW100 tube alone is like $300 I know I bought a spare cylinder.
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I'm not a tech, but I don't see how this could work. I believe you would have a rifle regulated to the lower set point of the two regs. When installing a Huma air cylinder reg, the Weirauch reg is deactivated by removing the steel ball, to allow air to pass through unregulated, thus allowing the Huma to work. I may be missing something, my wife says I'm always wrong. Having some experience with both, I prefer the Weihrauch reg. 
 
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OK guys -- I'm about about sold on this one . . . . adjusting the hammer spring sounds m-rod'ish easy enough. It appears to be a dovetail scope mount. I kind of prefer picatinny but I just looked through some drawers and yeah - I have a set of dovetail rings - whatever. What about adjusting the reg? I personally like the huma's - most will say that the pre-marked stickers on them aren't all that great, and maybe not, BUT - if you don't have a specialized reg gauge / reg tester like me - then the huma's relatively simple adjustment is actually quite nice. I also own a Taipan Veteran and while those OEM reg's are considered by many to be fantastic - I've got a huma in mine - I couldn't figure out how to adjust the OEM one to a known value. The huma - piece of cake. ( plus I think I got one of the batches of Taipan's that were plagued by high / low / high / low - extremely predictable and very consistent - inconsistency in shot strings that was very frustrating when trying to tune it )

Anyway -- how is this regulator in this HW100 for making adjustments? Per @hobbyman2007 - I'm likely to drop it very low for my current need. 


 
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Regulator adjustment is easy. I remove the two screws holding the trigger and remove it first. I do that so I don’t scratch anything. Without the gauge in the test hole you’re pretty much guessing what the pressure is . If you plan on keeping the rifle I’d get one . As a matter of fact one of the members on the Canadian airgun forum has some for sale for real cheap. So in total there are 6 screws to take off for the regulator adjustment , it’s really not that bad and takes less than 5 minutes . Two to take the stock off , two to take the trigger off and the last two to split the action to get at the reg adjuster. I also unscrew my cylinder and dump the air in the plenum when making adjustments. Again I would recommend somewhere near 80 bar and back the hammer spring so that you end up 3-5% lower than the maximum velocity at that reg setting. By them the hammer will most likely be in free flight which is also good for shot count.
 
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