HW/Weihrauch HW30 Vortek Tuning Question

I left my HW30 cocked and loaded for about three months. Speed was down to 530 when I ran it over the chronograph. I had a Vortek Steel kit PG4 for the rifle and installed it this weekend with the VAC seal. No issues with the install, everything went smoothly.

I ran it across the chronograph with H&N FTT 8.64's and was only able to get 580 fps for about 6.5 fpe. Vortek's website says the kit is good for 7 to 9.5 fpe with the VAC seal installed.

I cleaned the inside out and used a small amount of the grease included with the kit. I applied a small amount on the outside of the VAC seal and spring as instructed. Was a simple install with no drama. However it is slower than I expected.

Any recommendations on how to get it a bit hotter? What did I do wrong for it to be so slow? I have shot about a hundred pellets through it and no changes to velocity.

I am wondering what tuning secret I am missing.

Thanks in advance!
 
Not having really toyed with the R7 platform I left the Vortek kit in mine and it’s at 7fr lbs in .20.
I think the Vortek kit is a bit over sprung but not that bad. When cocking it is imediately under load from the spring.
That being said it’s accurate and snap shot cycle. Could also be the ball detent needs more room to break causing the load up. Also the amount of lube on the metal kits can cause semi hydro lock in these kits. It’s a good thing for damping and bad for velocity.
That’s why I don’t really care for the “over sprung” guns. Or gas rams for that matter. They are hard to cock from the beginning instead of building up as the barrel is further into the arc which makes it much easier to cock.

Especially on a lower powered gun, which I like to be easy and fun to shoot.
 
Out of the box, the HW30 is a 6fpe gun and shoots smoothly. Why do you guys insist on pushing the power limit. If you want more power, get an HW95.
Depending on pellet they're 7-7.5 fpe from the factory now. Years ago they were a little tamer. Out of the box they're seldom smooth. I've tuned bunches of these. New and old, they almost always have twang in them. Not even close to as smooth with a kit in them. Even at 8 fpe.

I have 4 hw95s in three calibers and a bunch of other air rifles so I have plenty of available power. I still love shooting my 30s more. They typically hover at 8 fpe. They're a joy to shoot and very accurate at that power. I like the 30s at that power because they shoot flatter and makes hitting targets easier. They're just a great handy little gun. They're still very easy to cock at 8 fpe. Easy enough I can mow through a tin of 7.33s in a single sitting giggling my butt off almost the whole time. Being very accurate at 8 fpe also means they're still capable of incidental pesting.

You shoot yours the way you like it and I'll shoot mine the way I like. If you're ever in Northern Arkansas stop by and try one of my 8 fpe Hw30s and see if you feel the same way about an untuned 30 afterwards.

Be well
Ron
 
I have an R7 with a fresh ARH kit/guides and Vortek seal that shoots right around 7#. I would call the shot cycle "rather snappy". My HW30 has the Vortek PG4 kit and Vortek seal and pushes up to 7.5-8# depending on pellets and I'd call it "clean and crisp". That's all a bit subjective, but the HW30 has less recoil/feedback while making more power, being less hold sensitive and more accurate. The R7 has the oem beech sporter while the HW30 sits in a heavier claro walnut Corcorran stock. I could perhaps swap stocks for a more definitive study. I suspect the larger, heavier stock is helping tame the hotter powerplant. I can also confirm the PG4 kit just works remarkably well at that power level.
 
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Here’s what Grok says:

Choosing between the Vortek PG4 and a Maccari spring kit for your Beeman R7 depends on what you’re aiming for in terms of performance and feel. Both are solid options, but they’ve got different vibes.

The Vortek PG4 is a newer design from Vortek, focused on high performance with a bit more power than stock—think slightly higher velocity and energy (maybe 7-8 ft-lbs in .177 with light pellets). It’s got a dampened spring setup that reduces twang, but some folks find it a touch harsher or snappier in the shot cycle compared to other kits. It’s a good pick if you want a crisp, efficient firing feel and don’t mind a little extra cocking effort. Just be aware that Vortek kits can sometimes settle in velocity-wise after a couple thousand shots, though the PG4’s design aims to minimize that.

The Maccari kit, from Jim Maccari at Air Rifle Headquarters, is a classic choice with a reputation for buttery smoothness. It’s less about boosting power (it usually keeps things close to stock, around 6-7 ft-lbs) and more about refining the shot cycle—think minimal recoil, super-smooth cocking, and a mellow “thud” when you fire. Maccari’s springs are known for durability too; people have reported them holding up for tens of thousands of shots with barely any velocity loss. If you’re after max comfort and a laid-back shooting experience, this is probably your winner.

For an R7, which is already a light, easy-cocking rifle (it’s basically a Weihrauch HW30S under the hood), I’d lean toward the Maccari kit unless you’re chasing a bit more oomph. The R7 shines as a smooth plinker or target gun, and Maccari’s tuning complements that vibe perfectly. If you do go Vortek PG4, you’ll get a modern edge, but it might feel a tad livelier than the R7’s chill personality calls for.
 
Here’s what Grok says:

Choosing between the Vortek PG4 and a Maccari spring kit for your Beeman R7 depends on what you’re aiming for in terms of performance and feel. Both are solid options, but they’ve got different vibes.

The Vortek PG4 is a newer design from Vortek, focused on high performance with a bit more power than stock—think slightly higher velocity and energy (maybe 7-8 ft-lbs in .177 with light pellets). It’s got a dampened spring setup that reduces twang, but some folks find it a touch harsher or snappier in the shot cycle compared to other kits. It’s a good pick if you want a crisp, efficient firing feel and don’t mind a little extra cocking effort. Just be aware that Vortek kits can sometimes settle in velocity-wise after a couple thousand shots, though the PG4’s design aims to minimize that.

The Maccari kit, from Jim Maccari at Air Rifle Headquarters, is a classic choice with a reputation for buttery smoothness. It’s less about boosting power (it usually keeps things close to stock, around 6-7 ft-lbs) and more about refining the shot cycle—think minimal recoil, super-smooth cocking, and a mellow “thud” when you fire. Maccari’s springs are known for durability too; people have reported them holding up for tens of thousands of shots with barely any velocity loss. If you’re after max comfort and a laid-back shooting experience, this is probably your winner.

For an R7, which is already a light, easy-cocking rifle (it’s basically a Weihrauch HW30S under the hood), I’d lean toward the Maccari kit unless you’re chasing a bit more oomph. The R7 shines as a smooth plinker or target gun, and Maccari’s tuning complements that vibe perfectly. If you do go Vortek PG4, you’ll get a modern edge, but it might feel a tad livelier than the R7’s chill personality calls for.
Quite a good summary of reality based on my experience 👍
R
 
Here’s what Grok says:

Choosing between the Vortek PG4 and a Maccari spring kit for your Beeman R7 depends on what you’re aiming for in terms of performance and feel. Both are solid options, but they’ve got different vibes.

The Vortek PG4 is a newer design from Vortek, focused on high performance with a bit more power than stock—think slightly higher velocity and energy (maybe 7-8 ft-lbs in .177 with light pellets). It’s got a dampened spring setup that reduces twang, but some folks find it a touch harsher or snappier in the shot cycle compared to other kits. It’s a good pick if you want a crisp, efficient firing feel and don’t mind a little extra cocking effort. Just be aware that Vortek kits can sometimes settle in velocity-wise after a couple thousand shots, though the PG4’s design aims to minimize that.

The Maccari kit, from Jim Maccari at Air Rifle Headquarters, is a classic choice with a reputation for buttery smoothness. It’s less about boosting power (it usually keeps things close to stock, around 6-7 ft-lbs) and more about refining the shot cycle—think minimal recoil, super-smooth cocking, and a mellow “thud” when you fire. Maccari’s springs are known for durability too; people have reported them holding up for tens of thousands of shots with barely any velocity loss. If you’re after max comfort and a laid-back shooting experience, this is probably your winner.

For an R7, which is already a light, easy-cocking rifle (it’s basically a Weihrauch HW30S under the hood), I’d lean toward the Maccari kit unless you’re chasing a bit more oomph. The R7 shines as a smooth plinker or target gun, and Maccari’s tuning complements that vibe perfectly. If you do go Vortek PG4, you’ll get a modern edge, but it might feel a tad livelier than the R7’s chill personality calls for.
This isn't far off. But its obviously biased based on wording. I'm assuming Grok is an AI search engine. You have to be careful with AI. It has no objective reasoning or practical experience. It simply consumes mass data from the internet and compiles that information. That sounds good until you see that it sometimes parrots false information because it's whats most believed across the internet. We all know what's most believed and the actual truth aren't necessarily the same. Much of the information on the net isn’t based on facts. It's often based or swayed by popular emotion. AI can also be programed with a deliberate bias. AI can be useful but should never be taken as absolute truth because all it does is compile and parrot information that's subject to human foibles.
 
I have never tuned anything myself as i would rather let someone else do that and i will just shoot . But you guys are sure twisting my arm towards trying this .
I've always thought that 'tuning' was a bit of hyperbole when describing the installation of a drop in tune kit. I don't polish, hone, file, or deburr. Just take the gun apart, clean out the old grease, replace the spring and seal, apply proper lube, and put it all back together. Go slow, consult a few video tutorials, check in here if necessary, and you should have no problem.
R
 
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I've always thought that 'tuning' was a bit of hyperbole when describing the installation of a drop in tune kit. I don't polish, hone, file, or deburr. Just take the gun apart, clean out the old grease, replace the spring and seal, apply proper lube, and put it all back together. Go slow, consult a few video tutorials, check in here if necessary, and you should have no problem.
kit dropping is as far from tuning a gun as it gets.
 
I have a D54 with a busted spring i am thinking about since it is busted already i can order a lighter spring maybe around 11 FPE .
A Vortex kit
You won't need a spring compressor for the Hw30 if you're in reasonably good health. With the vortek kits it's better if you don't use one. You can crush or crack the outer guide if you don't get it lined up inside the piston skirt properly.
Using a compressor takes away your ability to feel that something isn't lined up. Get a new piston seal while you're at it. It's an important part of the job.

The D54, I have no idea.
 
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kit dropping is as far from tuning a gun as it gets.
Yes, the only thing I buy for a tune is an ARH or Vortek spring and piston buttons.
This usually cost about $26 + shipping; I guess Vortek springs are more.

Everything else is custom …. usually taking me about 8-10 hours😳.
All the little tweaks like tuning the trigger, lockup detent, piston tang with 1,500 paper, diamond bit/deburring the receiver slots, honing the compression chamber, sleeving the piston, polishing the bore, the right amount of lube etc. make a (big) cumulative difference. You may have to clip coils, adjust your spacing, size or buy another piston seal …. To get it right🌈.

The only reason I spend this much time is ….. it’s fun/interesting for me and will make the gun “purr“ for years🎯.
 
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HW30S - Spring/Piston Seal Replacement:

Opened up my HW30S today (previously tuned in 2019) hoping to get about 700 fps with AA Falcon (7.33) pellets with a balanced shot cycle. My gun had been shooting at about 620 fps which is about 6.25 FPE.

I added a Vortek .113" spring with 25 coils, but 3 are compressed, so only are 22 active. With my .160" Top Hat the total length is 2.985" where as the piston's inside measures 3.125". Used a Vortek piston seal as they’re capable of more power.

I had to trim down the spring guide (on my lathe) a bit to fit the spring snugly.
Put ARH Button's on the rear of the piston only, I felt the piston seal would be enough to center the short 3.5" piston during the shot cycle.

Replaced the plastic piston liner and didn’t use any black tar on the spring, only clear tar on spring guide, Molly on the piston seal & buttons and Superlube in the compression chamber.

Notes:
Was surprised how much "Tar Goop" spread around in the receiver :p ... and had to take more off the cocking arm so it wouldn't gall the receiver.
Less is always best .........

I will reassemble tomorrow to see what I get.
- I'm expecting to get > 700+ fps with the Falcon pellets, but with a harsher than desired shot cycle.
If correct I will likely trim a coil or two off the spring and lengthen my Top Hat ..... or something like that.

HW30S Piston - Spring - Seal.JPG


HW30S - Receiver.JPG
 
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HW30S - Spring/Piston Seal Replacement:

Opened up my HW30S today (previously tuned in 2019) hoping to get about 700 fps with AA Falcon (7.33) pellets with a balanced shot cycle. My gun had been shooting at about 620 fps which is about 6.25 FPE.

I added a Vortek .113" spring with 25 coils, but 3 are compressed, so only are 22 active. With my .160" Top Hat the total length is 2.985" where as the piston's inside measures 3.125". Used a Vortek piston seal as they’re capable of more power.

I had to trim down the spring guide (on my lathe) a bit to fit the spring snugly.
Put ARH Button's on the rear of the piston only, I felt the piston seal would be enough to center the short 3.5" piston during the shot cycle.

Replaced the plastic piston liner and didn’t use any black tar on the spring, only clear tar on spring guide, Molly on the piston seal & buttons and Superlube in the compression chamber.

Notes:
Was surprised how much "Tar Goop" spread around in the receiver :p ... and had to take more off the cocking arm so it wouldn't gall the receiver.
Less is always best .........

I will reassemble tomorrow to see what I get.
- I'm expecting to get > 700+ fps with the Falcon pellets, but with a harsher than desired shot cycle.
If correct I will likely trim a coil or two off the spring and lengthen my Top Hat ..... or something like that.

View attachment 549673

View attachment 549674
Report back as I Am Curious to what transpires. Do your self a favor and ring the piston , .125 parting tool lots of lube and slower speed. YOU HAVE A LATHE. or mill the buttons in .. The glue on buttons are gonna fall off and you will get side galling. It’s not if. , it’s when.
 
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Thanks for all the replies, everything worked out OK with the new Vortek kit. I did some testing over the weekend and tried the JSB RS 7.3's and the H&N Terminator 7.25's. The speed was up to the 650's and FPE was up to over 7.

Was way too windy to enjoy shooting it this weekend so I triple checked to make sure it was not cocked and put it away for a bit until the weather improves.
 
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