Any of you HW experts seen this before? Extreme spread was too great so I took it apart and found this. No metal in the gun, compression tube looks great, all the other internals look great. The gouges are 180 degrees opposite each other and are perfectly round except for the big missing chunk near the seal. Bought this used and description said it was still dieseling from the factory lube, so wondering if this could have been a manufacturing defect?
HW45 Piston Damage
- Thread starter cjtamu
- Start date
HW45s never stop dieseling. There's a lot to learn about that gun. Too much for me to post. Plus it's already available. Just Google about the gun. I don't see any defect in the piston. The scraping on the tail end is superficial and I believe the marks left on the sides near the seal are remnants from the manufacturing process. Neither is the reason for a wide extreme spread.
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Yeah, I’ve had some good reads and discussions with Steveoo and some others. The pictures don’t do it justice LOL. The circular mark near the big gouge by seal is surficial. The big gouge is 0.25 mm deep. Circular gouge on the other side is 0.20 mm. The small indentation near seal on that side is also 0.25 mm deep and looks like it was meant to be there, so I’m guessing maybe a piece broke off on other side. I wondered how it would affect things since the scratches are behind the air mass and the piston shouldn’t touch the compression tube. I’ll take your word for it and will just replace the piston seal and see what happens.
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The OE seal is nylon. It's rumored that the seal can shrink in time and compromise sealing. Especially if run at low power. I've heard that Dr Beeman recommended to occasionally dry fire the gun to keep the seal fit to the gun.
I never recommend dry firing any springer because I've broken springs and blown out piston seals doing that. However I have dry fired my P1 dozens of times with now apparent detriment.
When I took mine apart the OE seal had bad cuts in it. I bought both a new factory seal and Australian custom seal for mine. Supposedly the factory seals make the most power. This gun isn't high on my to do list so I keep using it as is.
I never recommend dry firing any springer because I've broken springs and blown out piston seals doing that. However I have dry fired my P1 dozens of times with now apparent detriment.
When I took mine apart the OE seal had bad cuts in it. I bought both a new factory seal and Australian custom seal for mine. Supposedly the factory seals make the most power. This gun isn't high on my to do list so I keep using it as is.
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Have heard the same. Just put an Aussie seal in. Old one was hard as a rock and had some small cuts. Haven’t put back together yet because I need to make a trip to hardware store and get a 1/2” nylon bolt to make a spring guide for the muzzle end. Supposed to prolong spring life and add a touch of power. Should be easier to put back together too without the spring trying to cant over.
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The OE is nylon. It's supposed to be hard as a rock. At least compared to a conventional synthetic seal that is more urethane.
I believe the scratches we have in the seal are from the cocking slots during installation. Be sure to deburr those like any other springer. I like the nylon bolt thing. I hate how squiggly the spring gets when cocked and the noise the arms make dragging over the wavy spring when closing the barrel. I'm really curious how it works out for you. Please update your results.
I believe the scratches we have in the seal are from the cocking slots during installation. Be sure to deburr those like any other springer. I like the nylon bolt thing. I hate how squiggly the spring gets when cocked and the noise the arms make dragging over the wavy spring when closing the barrel. I'm really curious how it works out for you. Please update your results.
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I think my memory failed me. I think the OE piston seal may be Teflon and not nylon as I asserted. I may order the TBT kit for mine.
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The aussy seal plus the tinbum kit PLUS detuning to just under 5ftlbs makes it a very different gun.
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I have a copy of that write up. Going to adjust my trigger his way when the rest is done. Ron, I believe the OEM seal is Teflon. Couple links below where Steveoo discusses Tinbum Kit +/- and some other things. Knows a ton about airguns in general and sounds like he’s done a lot with HW45 in particular. Depends on what you want. I have no desire to detune mine.
www.airgunnation.com
www.airgunnation.com
HW 45 or Beeman P 1
Got the bug for a good springer pistol. Is there any difference between these two other than the labeling? Whichever I choose it looks as though I might have to wait a while.
www.airgunnation.com Tuning the HW45/P1
I wanted to share what I believe to be the best way to tune the HW45 pistol after approx 30 years of owning and tuning. First, you can just leave it stock and shoot it. If you resist adding any additional lubrication, it will eventually expel, or burn off the excess lube put into it by the...
www.airgunnation.com Upvote 0
Well, my local Ace let me down. Rare. Only had nylon bolts up to 3/8” OD. Put it back together. Quick polish of spring ends and very light coat of moly on guide and spring, as well as sear, cocking arms, and pivot bolt. Quick steel wool of the pivot bolt. Cocking is much smoother now. Shot cycle with the parachute seal is very different feel than OEM seal. I like it. Almost no dieseling after 5 shots. Hopefully get on chrono tomorrow and see what it says.
Added note: I took a small block of 3/4” plywood and made an adapter to help put back together. Was having a hard time keeping things lined up because of the tab on transfer point end that catches the hammer assembly. Cut a small groove in the block for that tab to fit into. Kept the compression tube from rotating and allowed me to put that whole end flush instead of having to hang the tab off the compressor. Made things a whole lot easier.
Added note: I took a small block of 3/4” plywood and made an adapter to help put back together. Was having a hard time keeping things lined up because of the tab on transfer point end that catches the hammer assembly. Cut a small groove in the block for that tab to fit into. Kept the compression tube from rotating and allowed me to put that whole end flush instead of having to hang the tab off the compressor. Made things a whole lot easier.
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Way mo bettah. Ran about 60 shots through yesterday to settle in. Quick 10 shot chrono test today low 386 FPS and high 392 FPS with H&N FTT 14.66 grain. Seems to prefer these to the JSB Exact 13.43. Groups are far better. Need to re-test with JSB as well as some other pellets because I think the FTT is a little heavy for this power plant. Appear to at least be on the right track.
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The excites look suspiciously like the Hobbies but the Hobbies always shot much better for me
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All those wadcutters look alike to me ha ha. I’m hoping the RWS perform like the Meisterkugeln do in my 2300S. Then we’d be done.
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Not all wadcutters have ribbed skirts like the Hobbies and IIRC the Excites. The MKs have smooth skirts and most others I'm aware of have smooth skirt.
Wadcutters can be very accurate for low power and short range. It's what I typically shoot from my 177 P1. I prefer to use the MK Pistol and Hobbies because of their lighter weight.
Disclaimer I'm terrible with this pistol. But of all the pellets I've tried these give me my least terrible results.
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Yeah, I find it strange that the Meisters are one of the lighter lead pellets for .177 but are 14 grain when you go to .22. Pellets shipped today so we’ll see how they do.
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MKs in 177 come in both 7.0 gr (Pistol) and 8.2 gr (Rifle). The only 22 MK version is basically a mid weight rifle version. I guess they only have the Hobbies for a lightweight WC.
I had a 22 HW50 that did really well with the MK and Hobbies at 13 FPE.
I had a 22 HW50 that did really well with the MK and Hobbies at 13 FPE.
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