I’d like to tune my HW50 with an ARH full power kit but I’m not sure what fpe that will give me. Does anyone know offhand? I’d really like to end up at 10-11 fpe. Thanks!
HW50 tune question
- Thread starter peaceful_ruler
- Start date
In case you didn't see this on the other thread.
I haven't installed a ARH kit in a 50 yet but I've installed his full power kits in a R1, Hw35 and my R9. The first two made a little less than full factory power and the last one made a little more. The shot cycle on the first two was very nice and the last one good for the power level.
If the the gun is jumpy (which I doubt) you can always cut the spring. If you're not comfortable cutting and closing the spring end, you can heat the last coil and collapse it. The ARH kits I've used came with a lot preload so there's a lot of spring to work with there.
I recommend that you use a Vortek piston seal. You don't have to size them and they make more power than traditional parachute seals.
I haven't installed a ARH kit in a 50 yet but I've installed his full power kits in a R1, Hw35 and my R9. The first two made a little less than full factory power and the last one made a little more. The shot cycle on the first two was very nice and the last one good for the power level.
If the the gun is jumpy (which I doubt) you can always cut the spring. If you're not comfortable cutting and closing the spring end, you can heat the last coil and collapse it. The ARH kits I've used came with a lot preload so there's a lot of spring to work with there.
I recommend that you use a Vortek piston seal. You don't have to size them and they make more power than traditional parachute seals.
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That seems the popular combo. Jm spring and vortex seal.. i like to buy 2 seals just in case of a oops or somthing aint quite right.. like you miss a burr and nick the new seal or the fit just dont work out ... You got a backup and save on shipping ..lol... I also throw a brerch seal in for fun... Never know when you like one around as well..
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I recently had the Vortek HO kit installed in my HW50. I gained about 20 fps and the shot cycle completely smoothed out. Cocking effort also smoothed out as well. Very good upgrade.
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I’d also endorse the ARH kit and Vortek piston seal recommendation. That combination has worked well for me in many guns.
I recently put an ARH full power kit in my .177 hw50s and it was giving me 11.5fpe. Just a bit less than factory power. This was with JSB 8.4s. The shot cycle and accuracy were both improved from the factory spring and seal.
But I wanted a milder shot cycle and decided to give the ARH indoor plinkers kit a try. After about 1,000 shots, this kit has settled in at 9.2fpe with JWB 8.4s. IMHO, this is the unicorn setup for the hw50s. Very gentle shot cycle, excellent accuracy, easy cocking and enough power for small game out to 30-35 yards.
My guess is that you could clip two coils off of the ARH full power kit and get down into your desired 10-11fpe range.
Good luck
R
I recently put an ARH full power kit in my .177 hw50s and it was giving me 11.5fpe. Just a bit less than factory power. This was with JSB 8.4s. The shot cycle and accuracy were both improved from the factory spring and seal.
But I wanted a milder shot cycle and decided to give the ARH indoor plinkers kit a try. After about 1,000 shots, this kit has settled in at 9.2fpe with JWB 8.4s. IMHO, this is the unicorn setup for the hw50s. Very gentle shot cycle, excellent accuracy, easy cocking and enough power for small game out to 30-35 yards.
My guess is that you could clip two coils off of the ARH full power kit and get down into your desired 10-11fpe range.
Good luck
R
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One thing that comes with the move away from bigger diameter compression chambers (HW50/99 etc) is the vital need for the correct pre-load in relation to the pellet.
Its generally accepted that the Vortex seal is a goody. Not so much the kit where gawling issues can occur with the spring sleeve and complete break up of the earlier plastic one.
The constant shift to plastic top hats does not always improve things. The .22 in reasonable weight to heavy pellets performs better with a steel top hat, but using light pellets, or .177 the plastic top hat has the edge.
I actually advocate steel top hats. If aligned to the correct pellet a bit more power can be had, along with more lasting reliability with virtually no detectable diff to shot cycle…
Its all about the balance of the tune and the pre load….if you take the trouble to find the right pellet.
Agreeing the Vortex seal is setting the std now.
The seal and std set up should see about 10.5ftlbs ….steel top hat and 16 grainer getting into the low 11ftlbs.
Its generally accepted that the Vortex seal is a goody. Not so much the kit where gawling issues can occur with the spring sleeve and complete break up of the earlier plastic one.
The constant shift to plastic top hats does not always improve things. The .22 in reasonable weight to heavy pellets performs better with a steel top hat, but using light pellets, or .177 the plastic top hat has the edge.
I actually advocate steel top hats. If aligned to the correct pellet a bit more power can be had, along with more lasting reliability with virtually no detectable diff to shot cycle…
Its all about the balance of the tune and the pre load….if you take the trouble to find the right pellet.
Agreeing the Vortex seal is setting the std now.
The seal and std set up should see about 10.5ftlbs ….steel top hat and 16 grainer getting into the low 11ftlbs.
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Hey Peaceful,
You should be able to get 10-11 FPE with any kit, that's really an easy to achieve - sweet spot.
The Vortek kit (high power) may require to cutting a coil or two. I don't like the ARH piston seals, because you need to fit them and this is one of my tuning black holes. I use the OEM seals or green/maroon Australian ones off ebay.
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Thanks for all the help! Now I’m trying to decide what output I want for the best accuracy possible. I’m planning to use JSB 8.44’s out to 40 yards. It could be anywhere from 9-11.5 fpe from what it sounds. I’d rather not have to deal with shortening the spring and all that goes with that but I’d really like to be around 10.5 fpe. What’s the easiest way to shorten the spring?
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Hey P_r,
Assuming it's over sprung:
1) You could leave it cocked for a day or two, causing the gun to loose a little power as desired.
2) Alternatively, cut a coil of two by grinding it off, heating the (cut) end and compressing it flat. Then grind, use a stone to smooth -> polish (easy peasy).
Assuming it's over sprung:
1) You could leave it cocked for a day or two, causing the gun to loose a little power as desired.
2) Alternatively, cut a coil of two by grinding it off, heating the (cut) end and compressing it flat. Then grind, use a stone to smooth -> polish (easy peasy).
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First off don't obsess about the finites until you get the gun together properly. There's bunches of other stuff that has to be done right to have good accuracy. I have plenty of very accurate guns that defy current beliefs.
There's no simple way to predict what exactly your going to wind up with. There's variables in each gun and the way it's put together. Get it together and shoot it. Then if you want to tweak it, pull it apart and tweak it.
I was the first to respond to this thread and everything you needed is in that response. Including the easiest way to shorten a spring.
I certainly understand obsessing. I'm an ocd perfectionist myself but eventually you have to move to action. The internet is a great source of information but it can cripple people with too much information. Jump in and learn as you go. You seldom know what works and doesn't work for you until you have something operational.
Good luck with the gun
Ron
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I've got an ARH full power kit in my .177 HW50s and it's been in there a few yeas now. Shot cycle made me happy enough that I also bought a couple extra springs and seals, enough to keep it going for past my life-time probably.
Anyway, I shoot the JSB 7.87 out of mine. 710fps in warm weather and 720fps in cooler temps. Very consistent. I used one of the ARH Hornet seals, sized to the compression tube. Very minimal lube and it's calm and quite, no buzz, no twaaaannggggeee. No twisty torqueing. Just a gentle rear-ward push. No coils cut or collapsed.
I'm at only about 9fpe, but also live at 5600feet above sea level. Every springer I've owned has been a couple fpe less than what most on the forums say they're getting.
Anyway, I shoot the JSB 7.87 out of mine. 710fps in warm weather and 720fps in cooler temps. Very consistent. I used one of the ARH Hornet seals, sized to the compression tube. Very minimal lube and it's calm and quite, no buzz, no twaaaannggggeee. No twisty torqueing. Just a gentle rear-ward push. No coils cut or collapsed.
I'm at only about 9fpe, but also live at 5600feet above sea level. Every springer I've owned has been a couple fpe less than what most on the forums say they're getting.
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