I agree that the Delrin plastic does eliminate the gulling. I started installing this material (made from cutting boards) decades before Weihrauch did. It does not however fix the problem. If or when the spring takes a set (when removed it’s bent) it puts pressure on the piston wall and the piston wants to turn. It pushes the lever into the side of the receiver groove. Metal starts being removed. When enough metal is removed the joint in the lever binds. This binding does not allow the lever to function correctly. The Delrin will press up firmly against the receiver. This saves the gulling. The smooth cocking is however lessened. I would not want the lever to continue to shave metal on the groove or have the cocking cycle compromised. A tune kit with a sleeve helps keep the spring straight and off the piston wall. This has been my experience with this issue. For what it’s worth.There's no longer a galling problem on the newer 50s. I'm gonna guess that the 50s have had the plastic guide fix the problem for at least the last six years. Possibly longer. I don't know when exactly they introduced the plastic glide. It's a non issue for anyone buying a new gun.
I have a HW30 on order. Do you know if the 30 has the same double jointed cocking lever issue as the 50?Good choice on the 50. The double jointed cocking lever is the chink in its armor. As you do break in, concentrate on the cocking cycle. If you ever feel a slight drag that suddenly feels different, stop immediately and install a Tune kit with a sleeve. I use the Vortek kit. You will permanently damage the receiver because the lever has started to gull into the groove on the receiver. The spring has taken a negative set and is twisting the piston sideways. It’s rubbing on the groove and will soon start gulling into the receiver. Sometimes the spring stays straight and it’s never a issue. If the spring does take a negative set it’s usually within a tin or two of pellets. Just something to watch for and and easy fix. I wish I knew this 40 years ago. If you want to be proactive then just install the kit right away. Good stocking stuffer. Merry Christmas.
Well you have decades more experience than I do so I will certainly concede to that. I'm not sure I understand all the dynamics you explained but most of my experience is with new or tune kitted guns so maybe that's why?I agree that the Delrin plastic does eliminate the gulling. I started installing this material (made from cutting boards) decades before Weihrauch did. It does not however fix the problem. If or when the spring takes a set (when removed it’s bent) it puts pressure on the piston wall and the piston wants to turn. It pushes the lever into the side of the receiver groove. Metal starts being removed. When enough metal is removed the joint in the lever binds. This binding does not allow the lever to function correctly. The Delrin will press up firmly against the receiver. This saves the gulling. The smooth cocking is however lessened. I would not want the lever to continue to shave metal on the groove or have the cocking cycle compromised. A tune kit with a sleeve helps keep the spring straight and off the piston wall. This has been my experience with this issue. For what it’s worth.
Did you give them a copy of your Drivers License?Well I have an air Venturi .177 worm, some field target 4.52’s (two tins), and some 7/8ths patches coming. Still no answer from Krale.
Ron I totally agree that the issue has diminished with the addition of the longer better fitting spring guide and less noticeable with the Delrin insert. The beauty of using a sleeve is the sleeve enters the piston a ways when the gun is at rest. This holds the spring from rubbing the piston wall for the majority of the the piston. The spring would have to have a very sharp bend in the last bit of room remaining to get to the piston wall. But as you said the problem is less than it once was. At least on the 35 and 50. The 30 is still vulnerable to gulling and mine get a kit on day one.Well you have decades more experience than I do so I will certainly concede to that. I'm not sure I understand all the dynamics you explained but most of my experience is with new or tune kitted guns so maybe that's why?
I did. My first attempted correspondence with them was on 22NOV asking if they knew a lead time on .22 HW50S’s. No response. Placed my order Friday. Everyone knows what happened then.Did you give them a copy of your Drivers License?
"gulling" - An instance of duping or fooling somebodyRon I totally agree that the issue has diminished with the addition of the longer better fitting spring guide and less noticeable with the Delrin insert. The beauty of using a sleeve is the sleeve enters the piston a ways when the gun is at rest. This holds the spring from rubbing the piston wall for the majority of the the piston. The spring would have to have a very sharp bend in the last bit of room remaining to get to the piston wall. But as you said the problem is less than it once was. At least on the 35 and 50. The 30 is still vulnerable to gulling and mine get a kit on day one.
I use ball bearing grease for certain things requiring such.I suppose the best way to deal with "galling" is to make sure it stay well lubed? Probably with a thick grease...
The best way to reduce the galling on the Hw30 is to remove the barrel with cocking arm. This requires nearly complete disassembling. The backside of the stamped cocking arm parts are often sharp and cut through any grease you put on it and will still gall. Tight cocking arm joints aggravate the condition.I suppose the best way to deal with "galling" is to make sure it stay well lubed? Probably with a thick grease...
I'm assuming you meant HW50 not HW30...The best way to reduce the galling on the Hw30 is to remove the barrel with cocking arm. This requires nearly complete disassembling. The backside of the stamped cocking arm parts are often sharp and cut through any grease you put on it and will still gall. Tight cocking arm joints aggravate the condition.
The way to fix this particular rifles is to exercise the cocking arm joint and smooth the backside edges of the cocking arm. If there already galling on the underside of the compression tube nows the time to smooth down the high spots level. Grease the cocking arm track with good moly grease and reassemble.
I own 3 Hw30s and tuned at least a half dozen others and the only one that didn't need this done was a gun that Paul Watts had taken care of already.
Most Hw30s reach a point wear the metal parts mate together and smooth out AFTER some galling. I've never seen any parts completely worn out so if you want to ignore the gritty cocking and occasionally smother it with moly grease you can probably do so and it will likely smooth out with use.
Keep in mind I have seen where the ensuing metal slurry make it onto the piston and into the compression tube. That wore grooves in the bottom of the compression tube which comprises the guns sealing ability. It's better addressed than ignored.
thumper: Sorry for the misspelling and welcome to the club."gulling" - An instance of duping or fooling somebody
"galling" - a form of wear caused by adhesion between sliding surfaces.
The galling has nothing to do with the spring having a sleeve on it. I stuck a Vortek kit in my 50S years ago and it still galled. The pressure on the cocking stroke is all on the forward end of the arm, the end in the piston is basically unsupported.
Think about it, if there was downward pressure on the cocking foot, it would grate and rub and bind and you'd feel every coil of the spring on the cocking stroke. The cocking foot fits the slot pretty well, and doesn't have enough room to move around enough to matter. Assemble the gun without the piston and move through the cocking stroke. There ain't a lot of wiggle room.
Consider why the 50S seems to bind and gall more often than the others like the 30, 55, and 35....
The 50S is the only one in the group with the 26mm diameter piston, it has the longest stroke, and the most cocking effort. It's a geometry issue between the size of the compression tube, the arm, and the pivot point where the arm contacts the breech block.
Sometime around 2012-2013 is when the big changes with Weihrauch went down. The nut style breech face, bolt on detent bracket on the other models, and the plastic insert on the 30S/50S/35.
Sorry for the misspelling. Welcome to the club.
Merry Christmas everyone.View attachment 309350