Never was before to my knowledge. I’m very reluctant to purchase a new Weihrauch right now.
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HW50s
- Thread starter Frogy
- Start date
I wouldn't blame you. Something like 5 out of 6 new guns I've tuned in the last year had issues the general consumer shouldn't be responsible for fixing. Most had to do with barrel alignment, cut seals and over lubing. Those issues are manageable with some mechanical ability but shouldn't be there in the first place.
One of the five, I couldn't fix and was exchanged for another rifle. It had a bead on braze slag in the corner of the compression tube. That'd chew up the lip of every seal you put in the gun.
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Recently received a new hw50 in 22. No noticeable barrel droop. But did notice when pushing a pellet down the barrel was a tight fit for the length of the block then a looser fit not enough for the pellet to fall before coming to the choke at muzzle. Anyone else have this?
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I haven't actually measured my HW50s droop but sighting down the length of my rifle it looks nearly identical to the one you have pictured here. I purchased a scope for it when new, put it on the gun tried sighting it in and when the scope reached the limits of it's adjustment the point of impact was STILL 4 inches below the bullseye at 50 feet! I sent the scope back and now shoot the gun with the factory open sights....not impressed with the gun.
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Yep just about everyone does. That's a typical Weihrauch barrel. The barrel is splined and pressed into the breech block. That creates the first tight spot. Then the barrel will only have light drag until it hits the muzzle choke. The muzzle choke is created when they crimp the sight dovetails. Totally normal for these guns.
Weihrauch 22 barrels have a reputation for being cut on the loose side. I have found pellets with larger head sizes and thicker skirts like H&N and RWS do better than JSBs. H&N FTTs work best for me. Particularly the 5.54 size.
Hth
Ron
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Rws superfields are the second fav to ftts 5.53s. How's the accuracy with yours? I appreciate your reply
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I sold my 22 HW50 to a member here but the accuracy on it was excellent. Particularly with FTTs. I sold the gun because I didn't like the trajectory.
I have a 22 R1 and HW95 accuracy on them is very good with FTTs. It's meh to lousy with JSBs. I haven't tried the RWS in them because the FTTs are doing good enough and have a better BC than the RWS.
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We shoot the 5.53 FTT in both Kim’s HW50 and my HW95. Accuracy is excellent. And in my 95 about 10 FPS over the 5.54. Significantly more power than with JSB, particularly in the 50. Have heard the stories about some folks with their .22 HW. No issues with either of ours. Excellent guns both.
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I just got home from the range was happy with the 553 25m groups. I think it's shooting a little hot at 628fps 12.8fpe. I ordered a tbt maxi kit so hoping it will shoot around 11.5ish max. I Will order some 554s and see how they go. Appreciate everyone replies!
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Transfer port alignment?? Barrel angle angle can be adjusted with bending and or a drooper mount. Since my last post you quoted I got another unfixable new Hw50 sent to me. Weihrauch lately has been using welded tubing that leaves a seam. Sometimes it's not terribly detrimental sometimes it is. You can't properly seal a cylinder with a groove running the full length of the cylinder. There's no fix for this.
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Mine has the seem, has not damaged my new seal and it's had 2 tins of pellets through it.
Photo is of tp looking through the barrel
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The seams are varied in depth. Here's a 2022 Hw98 with the seam. After honing you can still see the seam but the honing cross hatch is nearly uninterupted. This rifle went together fine and produced normal power levels cleanly. Not every seam is terminal.
The 50 I posted pictures of earlier would have to be bored or honed excessively to approach proper sealing. Yes JM has oversized seals available but taking a tube that far out would be risky and ridiculously time consuming. Especially if done with hone.
I was a car mechanic for twenty years, a railroad machinist for fifteen years and built racing engines in my twentys and early thirties. Cylinder sealing is something I'm quite familiar with. Because something functions doesn't mean it's functioning correctly.
Any length wise depression or score in the compression tube will diminish sealing capability. This often leads to excessive dieseling as it provides a path for lube to enter the compression chamber. This dieseling will often make up for or even exceed the power loss from poor sealing. Unfortunately excessive dieseling can wreak havoc with accuracy. Even if the extreme spread is tight. Everything may chrono fine but it won't ever be really right without first sealing properly. It's the foundation of a good rifle.
I build very clean running guns. Meaning that dieseling is kept to an absolute minimal. In cases of guns with compromised tubes whether out of round, depressions or scores I favor using Krytox to eliminate the possibility of dieseling. It's one thing to deal with the occasional abnormality and wear damage on a used gun but it shouldn't be something you get in a new German rifle.
The 50 I posted pictures of earlier would have to be bored or honed excessively to approach proper sealing. Yes JM has oversized seals available but taking a tube that far out would be risky and ridiculously time consuming. Especially if done with hone.
I was a car mechanic for twenty years, a railroad machinist for fifteen years and built racing engines in my twentys and early thirties. Cylinder sealing is something I'm quite familiar with. Because something functions doesn't mean it's functioning correctly.
Any length wise depression or score in the compression tube will diminish sealing capability. This often leads to excessive dieseling as it provides a path for lube to enter the compression chamber. This dieseling will often make up for or even exceed the power loss from poor sealing. Unfortunately excessive dieseling can wreak havoc with accuracy. Even if the extreme spread is tight. Everything may chrono fine but it won't ever be really right without first sealing properly. It's the foundation of a good rifle.
I build very clean running guns. Meaning that dieseling is kept to an absolute minimal. In cases of guns with compromised tubes whether out of round, depressions or scores I favor using Krytox to eliminate the possibility of dieseling. It's one thing to deal with the occasional abnormality and wear damage on a used gun but it shouldn't be something you get in a new German rifle.
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I received my HW-50 from AOA with the same problem. Previously, I had a 2012 HW-30 with an old bullet entrance and a 2012 HW-90 with a new bullet entrance, like on the new Weihrauch rifles, they didn’t have this problem and the barrels looked perfectly straight. It looks like I understood from why this happens, you don’t need to bend the barrels-it is wrong way!!! I think I could fix this problem, but it would require additional costs. I only buy guns that shoot normally out of the box. I’m very disappointed that I bought a Weihrauch and I don’t know what to do now.
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That one doesn't look so bad. I've seen them a lot worse. Yours may just be the fresh breech seal holding it off lock up. The breech seal flattens with use and the barrel comes up. Very common on new Weihrauch break barrels. Simply remove the breech seal and see if the barrel comes up. If it does it will work itself right in time as the breech seal conforms to its space.
If not bending barrels that slightly off is easy and has no effect on accuracy. I've probably tweaked all of mine up or down and or left or right at one time. I've done it as part of a tune on at least a dozen other Weihrauchs. While I agree it's unfortunate to have to address it's really no big deal.
Bullet entrance?
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Bullet entrance? I don’t know what it’s called correctly. Yes, I also think that the problem is in this seal. I just wanted to change it to a softer one.
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I'd call that the breech entrance or pellet leade. Just let the seal break in. It'll be fine. The only seals I've seen softer are the Green JM seals. They can get mushy after a while. Not worth the headache. The factory seals are the best. You just need to use them a bit to get them to conform. They do the job great and last forever. If you're really impatient you can remove the seal, stretch it on a dowel, chuck it in a drill and sand down the backside with really corse sandpaper. Most of them mic out to 0.172" IIRC when right. Or simply let it conform as designed. I recommend the latter.
Use the gun an enjoy it.
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The factory seal usually never a issue but aftermarket ones like from arh are like a bit too long and need a tad removed .. idk bit seems a lot of droop posts on these latest hurry up'ed hw guns since they can't make supply/ orders . Maybe a qc blind eye to get anything out the door to make and ship a order ? Back when they were cheap and plentiful you rarely heard of a dropped hw as now a days .. then maybe there trying to keep up with Diana ? ..lol
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