HW/Weihrauch HW80/R1 Soft tune by cutting factory spring?

I was thinking of trying a soft tune kit for an R1 carbine that’s in need of attention. I happen to have new original spec seals and a factory spring in my parts collection. Can I achieve something close to 12 ftlbs and a softer shooting gun by cutting the new factory spring? If so what would be a good starting point a far as number of coils to remove? Am I totally off base here and need a different wire diameter to achieve my desired results? Thanks in advance for any experienced opinions.
 
I was thinking of trying a soft tune kit for an R1 carbine that’s in need of attention. I happen to have new original spec seals and a factory spring in my parts collection. Can I achieve something close to 12 ftlbs and a softer shooting gun by cutting the new factory spring? If so what would be a good starting point a far as number of coils to remove? Am I totally off base here and need a different wire diameter to achieve my desired results? Thanks in advance for any experienced opinions.
To get 12 for lbs out af a 30 mm tube will be a slushy shot cycle. You need pre load for piston bounce control
shortening the factory spring will lower power but sacrifice shot cycle. You can run a 25 coil spring but shortening the stroke is a better way. Changing to a smaller wire with more pre load also will help piston bounce. That piston with inner sleeve is around 290 to 300 grams. The best 12 ft lb R1/HW 80:are all sleeved down to 25 mm and repistoned with a Tx type of piston
What your asking is advanced tuning and isn’t GONA be easy ..
 
I tuned my old R1 to.about 12 fpe by cutting a few coils and it shot great. At the time the fellows on the yellow forum told me it was going to be just a horrible long shot cycle and it just wasn't..
It made it much more enjoyable to shoot and I really liked the size of the rifle so I didn't care that it was lower energy.
 
To get 12 for lbs out af a 30 mm tube will be a slushy shot cycle. You need pre load for piston bounce control
shortening the factory spring will lower power but sacrifice shot cycle. You can run a 25 coil spring but shortening the stroke is a better way. Changing to a smaller wire with more pre load also will help piston bounce. That piston with inner sleeve is around 290 to 300 grams. The best 12 ft lb R1/HW 80:are all sleeved down to 25 mm and repistoned with a Tx type of piston
What your asking is advanced tuning and isn’t GONA be easy ..
Thanks for the advice. I am leaning towards freshening it up with the parts that I have and enjoying a factory spec gun. Then again it is a low round count gun, it wouldnt hurt to cut the take out spring and see what it shoots like.
 
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I was thinking of trying a soft tune kit for an R1 carbine that’s in need of attention. I happen to have new original spec seals and a factory spring in my parts collection. Can I achieve something close to 12 ftlbs and a softer shooting gun by cutting the new factory spring? If so what would be a good starting point a far as number of coils to remove? Am I totally off base here and need a different wire diameter to achieve my desired results? Thanks in advance for any experienced opinions.
I stuck a vortek high power 35 kit in my 80 and it shot almost exactly 12fpe with hnftt. There was no preload but the firing cycle was light and smooth. It had a big steel top hat. It felt like it was shooting 7-8 fpe.
I now have a ARH soft tune kit in it with the current /black vortek seal and it doesn't quite make 12fpe. But the shot cycle while smooth feels like it is putting out more power. Something isn't quite right. A few hundred pellets ago it was only doing just under 10fpe so I will shoot it some more and see what happens. To be fair if it was the only springer I shot I would be very happy with it but I have a tx200, pro sport, and a 97 to compare it with.
 
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I was thinking of trying a soft tune kit for an R1 carbine that’s in need of attention. I happen to have new original spec seals and a factory spring in my parts collection. Can I achieve something close to 12 ftlbs and a softer shooting gun by cutting the new factory spring? If so what would be a good starting point a far as number of coils to remove? Am I totally off base here and need a different wire diameter to achieve my desired results? Thanks in advance for any experienced opinions.
What caliber is your R1?
 
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I stuck a vortek high power 35 kit in my 80 and it shot almost exactly 12fpe with hnftt. There was no preload but the firing cycle was light and smooth. It had a big steel top hat. It felt like it was shooting 7-8 fpe.
I now have a ARH soft tune kit in it with the current /black vortek seal and it doesn't quite make 12fpe. But the shot cycle while smooth feels like it is putting out more power. Something isn't quite right. A few hundred pellets ago it was only doing just under 10fpe so I will shoot it some more and see what happens. To be fair if it was the only springer I shot I would be very happy with it but I have a tx200, pro sport, and a 97 to compare it with.
My R1 carbine is .20 Santa Rosa vintage and has never been apart. The Piston seal is shot and fails a vacuum/pressure test. In spite of that it puts out 14.9 ftlbs. An 80k in .20 I bought new was just around 16.5 ftlb. Out of the box.
 
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I have an HW80K in .25. It shoots right at 16.4 ftlbs and is the smoothest of this platform I have ever shot. It is laser accurate at 25 yards easily putting every H&N FTT through the 15mm holes on my RX target. Nothing but net!

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To get 12 for lbs out af a 30 mm tube will be a slushy shot cycle. You need pre load for piston bounce control
shortening the factory spring will lower power but sacrifice shot cycle. You can run a 25 coil spring but shortening the stroke is a better way. Changing to a smaller wire with more pre load also will help piston bounce. That piston with inner sleeve is around 290 to 300 grams. The best 12 ft lb R1/HW 80:are all sleeved down to 25 mm and repistoned with a Tx type of piston
What your asking is advanced tuning and isn’t GONA be easy
To get 12 for lbs out af a 30 mm tube will be a slushy shot cycle. You need pre load for piston bounce control
shortening the factory spring will lower power but sacrifice shot cycle. You can run a 25 coil spring but shortening the stroke is a better way. Changing to a smaller wire with more pre load also will help piston bounce. That piston with inner sleeve is around 290 to 300 grams. The best 12 ft lb R1/HW 80:are all sleeved down to 25 mm and repistoned with a Tx type of piston
What your asking is advanced tuning and isn’t GONA be easy ..
I took my 30mm piston down to 225 g added bearings and use a vortek seal . Titan 10plus spring cut to 270mm they are 2.9 wire so it’s a lot of preload. Opened the tp to 3.4 . It’s tuned in 22 for jsb rs and express runs a tad under 12 . Nice quick shot cycle. Is it as good as a reduced 25mm ? It pretty close but no . I do have the 98 shroud on the barrel so this adds a bit of weight and shoots nice . Honestly just set the 80 at 15 fpe and it’s pretty sweet
 
I have a HW-80 K in .20 caliber that has a Vortek 12 # spring kit in it and I shoots great with very little felt recoil or vibration, I would recommend it over cutting the spring which could give you issues down the road and might even batter the pistol and seal.
The kit is only about $90.00 and Kevin at Pellets and Pistons on U-tube has a great tutorial show the whole process. the R-1 is a classic, you really don't want to mess it up just to save a few bucks IMHO.