HW95: need help, what am I doing wrong?

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cgriff20

Member
Apr 26, 2017
58
1
WI, United States
I just jumped into the world of high end pellet guns for the first time with a new hw95. Right out of the box it was shooting great. I was getting under an inch groups at 17 yards (indoor range). The last few nights it has been shooting horribly however. I struggle to shoot a 3 inch group at 17 yards. That's off a bench resting the gun on a sand bag. So far I have tried changing scopes, changing pellets, changing shooting techniques, re-cleaning the barrel, tightening all stock screws. I do notice that there is a noticeable "burning" smell and quite a bit of "smoke" coming from the compression chamber. I assume this is dieseling. Should I take the gun apart and clean it? It almost seems like the gun will go in waves of accuracy. I will shoot 5 pellets through the same hole, and then all of a sudden itll open up to 3-5 inch groups. When it opens up it seems like the kick is harsher. 

Changing scopes- made no difference on accuracy. this could be the issue though. maybe my gun has chewed up both scopes? 

Changing pellets- made no difference. I don't think this is the issue, because when i bought the gun new it was shooting 1 hole groups with HN FTT's. Im still shooting the same tin. The other 9 tins of various pellets shoot similar or worse. 

Shooting technique: I have not technique changes from when the gun was shooting good to now.

Cleaning the barrel: i cleaned the barrel for a second time and there was little fouling. made no difference on accuracy

tightening stock screws: i used loctite originally and none are loose. 

Any other suggestions you guys have? thank you 
 
Is it the Lexus model That has a muzzle weight? If it has a front sight make sure it's good & snug. Sometimes a muzzle weight may loosen and that will give you problems. Next I would say check the trigger guard stock screws. Next, I suggest you only shoot the 1 type and brand of pellet a few hundred times and don't clean it. Let the barrel get seasoned to that pellet. Don't use any extra lite pellets in it until it is broken in. I woud,nt use those lite pellets myself. The gun will shoot more harshly using them.
 
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Is it the Lexus model That has a muzzle weight? If it has a front sight make sure it's good & snug. Sometimes a muzzle weight may loosen and that will give you problems. Next I would say check the trigger guard stock screws. Next, I suggest you only shoot the 1 type and brand of pellet a few hundred times and don't clean it. Let the barrel get seasoned to that pellet. Don't use any extra lite pellets in it until it is broken in. I woud,nt use those lite pellets myself. The gun will shoot more harshly using them.
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Yes it is the Luxus model. But sights have been removed. Just using a scope. I’ve been shooting hn ftt 14.66 grain for the last 150 or so rounds. 
 
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When it shoots poorly, open the barrel and blow through it. Does a decent amount of smoke come out? If so, you're dieseling pretty badly. Some guns get WAAAY over greased from the factory. My first 97K took almost two tins to settle in. From that point on, any time I got a new gun, I took 20 shots and then opened it up, cleaned and re-lubed the gun myself. I usually toss in a PG4 kit and seal while I'm in there.

That being said, 3" at 17yds is a bit extreme.
 
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Well i think I may have found the problem. Does this seal look bad to you all? I'm a beginner, but i'm guessing there shouldn't be that hole in the rim of the seal? It looks like there was a failure and a blast backwards behind the seal. What would cause that to such a new gun? Should I just order a new seal? Also the seal face looks really dirty. Should I clean out all of the excess lube in the chamber? 
 
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That seal is "shot" so to speak. Now that you have the gun apart, make a sleeve to go over the spring. It will ease any vibration and make the gun even more accurate. Remove all the factory grease and either use a little molly or buy Krytox (it ain't cheap, but it is the best) and apply sparingly.

Then get a new seal either a OEM or one from Vortek. You will love the gun if you follow this advice.
 
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You can make a sleeve out of a smooth plastic beverage bottle, but IMHO a better sleeve is made from shim stock of about .003-.006 inches. The size is determined by the amount of room in the tube. The steel can be purchased as a kit that provides a wide variety of sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/Brass-Stock-0-001-0-002-Assorted/dp/B09QLKLGFR/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=assorted+Shim+Stock&qid=1643304151&s=industrial&sr=1-7

Cut it with scissors and roll it into a tube that fits the spring. Cut length to size to fit the piston and apply grease to the spring so it slides freely in the tube. This move takes up the slack between the spring and the walls of the piston in which it rides and causes the spring to release straight and not like a guitar string.

Even better and if you go this route, you will be even happier. Buy a spring kit from Vortek. Tom, the owner is happy to talk to and advise his customers, unlike the some other sites that cater to air gun pros only.

http://vortekproducts.com/ourstore/
 
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Yessir. That was extreme dieseling/combustion. You will absolutely need a new seal. Vortek will have it in stock. A good clean and proper lube job is in order.
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How do i make a sleeve? are there any companies that sell sleeves? And do you have any links to good molly pastes to use? Krytox is a little more than i care to spend.
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I would just get yourself a PG4 kit and piston seal from Vortek. As far as molly goes, I just have a small thing of the Air Venturi Moly Paste. Its pretty cheap and lasts a long time.
 
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First off, please send a picture of that seal and describe your experience to Weihrauch directly. Yours unfortunately isn't a rare occurrence, and personally I think they should see it. 

You'll need a new seal. That's a given. When properly lubed, a factory seal will last a long time. The aftermarkets are also good options, but may require a little sizing to be at their optimum. That goes for Vortek too. 

I agree that a tune kit would also be a worthwhile investment. However, I wouldn't use the Vortek kit and especially not in your case if you do a lot of shooting indoors or for accuracy at paper. They are harder cocking and I'm not fond of the steel outer guide scraping on the inside of the steel piston. I used one recently and the steel guide was very soft and tried to gall inside the piston. It also naturally introduces more metal to metal moving inside the gun, and that will require more lube and just be one more wear point. 

I've been much happier with the Air Rifle Headquarters kits. They cock easier and drop right in and shoot smooth. Velocity may be a touch less, but the slightly calmer shot cycle will be worth it. You can get your new seal and a little tub of moly paste at the same time and be set to go. 

The Krytox won't be of any benefit to you, and will just be an expense that would be better put towards a tune kit. I've used it, and it's not any benefit over a good moly paste when your seal fits right and it's properly applied. The moly paste from ARH is great stuff, and has been around forever. You can use it anywhere in the gun. 

I'd send Weihrauch that email and see what they say. 

But regardless, a new seal and good moly paste alone will make the gun shoot well for a long time. Better than it ever did new. A tune kit will make it better yet. 




 
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I'm not sure what happened in Thumpers case (installed a kit into a sleeved piston maybe?) but I have five of those PG3-4 Steel kits installed now. Not a single issue aside from having to do a slight modification to my TX200 kit. Every one is silky smooth.
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No, there wasn't a sleeve. It was in an older R9 and I removed the sleeve. There was very little clearance between the Vortek guide and the piston, and the guide was galling towards the middle of the piston. Likely due to the cocking slot being punched out and the piston not perfectly round. 

Now that's no fault of the Vortek kit. But, the kit should have been designed with more clearance to account for this in my mind. If it were just slapped in and thrown together and used, it would have filled the gun full of metal shavings. Which is bad. And may or may not have been noticed by someone else installing the kit. Or maybe I'm just picky. 

Either way, all of it would have been a complete non-issue with a "traditional" style tuning kit. 

What did you have to do to modify your TX200 kit? They are advertised as "drop in kits" after all. 


 
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That one probably was a Vortek mistake. The kit was putting out about 9ftlbs after the install. Went to add the supplied shims and had issues. Had to modify the guide to make it all work. My best guess is that the spring was snipped a bit short. The replacement spring I got was just over 12fpe. Here's the post on it.

I have an ARH kit in my 35E and I really do like it a lot. The Vortek kits are just a bit easier to tune thanks to the spring seats so I just tend to go with them more often than not.
 
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