HW97 moderator, does it do anything?

IMO the Vortek seals are the best readily available in the US. However the new PG4 kits have some clearance issues with the Weihrauchs and they often require modifications to gun to prevent metal contamination of the compression tube. Since going to the steel outer guide they aren't the easy drop in kits they used to be. If anyone wants to install a Vortek kit I say either send it to a guy familiar with them or be prepared to break out the dremel and spend alot of time fitting parts. Until Tom at Vortek changes things I think the best combination for the home tuner is a ARH kit and a Vortek seal.
Don't forget that ARH sells seals too and they are pretty good, there are also those super-duper Australian green seals :D

-Marty
 
Don't forget that ARH sells seals too and they are pretty good, there are also those super-duper Australian green seals :D

-Marty
I haven't tried the Australian seals yet. I have some for my Hw45 that I haven't tried yet.

I've used 25, 26 & 30mm piston seals from both ARH and the Vortek. The Vortek seals are easier to use and typically make more power.

The OE seals are ok but they often won't stand up to one dry fire, and their parachute design makes less power than cupped designs. Another thing is the only place in the US that seems to carry genuine Weihrauch piston seals is AoA. PA will substitute you some air venturi seal that looks like a ARH parachute type. PA constantly sends me substitute parts not pictured on their website. I avoid buying anything from them.

If you look at my previous post, I'm obviously not biased towards any company. My statements are based on lots of experimentation over several types of Weihrauchs. Since the aussie seals take weeks to get I stand by my statement that the Vortek seals are the best piston seals for Weihrauchs readily available in the US.
 
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I haven't tried the Australian seals yet. I have some for my Hw45 that I haven't tried yet.

I've used 25, 26 & 30mm piston seals from both ARH and the Vortek. The Vortek seals are easier to use and typically make more power.

The OE seals are ok but they often won't stand up to one dry fire, and their parachute design makes less power than cupped designs. Another thing is the only place in the US that seems to carry genuine Weihrauch piston seals is AoA. PA will substitute you some air venturi seal that looks like a ARH parachute type. PA constantly sends me substitute parts not pictured on their website. I avoid buying anything from them.

If you look at my previous post, I'm obviously not biased towards any company. My statements are based on lots of experimentation over several types of Weihrauchs. Since the aussie seals take weeks to get I stand by my statement that the Vortek seals are the best piston seals for Weihrauchs readily available in the US.
I think the Vortek seals are good for power too, just not the sound that they create…

-Marty
 
Ron you certainly have installed many more than I have. I must have been lucky with mine. I had very little drag of the shoe on the sleeve at first. It went away in 100 shots or so. The 95 has been apart a few times since to change power level, no evidence of shavings at all.

I put the PG4 in my 30 after about 5k or so. It’s fine. On that one I only put the kit in, never have had the piston out. Over 7k now on the factory seal. I have a Vac seal for it when needed.

I love these guns.
 
Ron you certainly have installed many more than I have. I must have been lucky with mine. I had very little drag of the shoe on the sleeve at first. It went away in 100 shots or so. The 95 has been apart a few times since to change power level, no evidence of shavings at all.

I put the PG4 in my 30 after about 5k or so. It’s fine. On that one I only put the kit in, never have had the piston out. Over 7k now on the factory seal. I have a Vac seal for it when needed.

I love these guns.
I've had the cocking shoe rub on two 95 PG4 kits and two R1s. The older style cocking shoe actually works better on these guns and kits. It makes reassembly a little tricky though.

I've had to reprofile and polish the foot on the cocking arm on three Hw30s and one Hw50.. I've only had two PG4 kits not need additional work. One of them was a 22 97 that turned out nice.

Consider yourself lucky Kurt. I'd recommend that you check your 30.
 
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Just the other day, I was shooting my HW97 and the accuracy was getting spotty. So, I cleaned the barrel, and in the process, I forgot to reinstall the cap that goes on the end of the moderator. I didn't know I had forgotten it, and went back to shooting. The pop from the muzzle was so loud I thought it was dieseling. I tried a few more shots, thinking it would go away, but it didn't. Then I discovered I had failed to install the cap. Once I installed the cap, the gun quieted right down to normal. I was really shocked at the difference in report with the moderator assembled properly.

This lead me to think about installing a baffle in the space the moderator provides. So next I designed and 3D printed a mono-core baffle.
View attachment 295399
This is a rendering of it in acrylic so you can see the helical baffle. I 3D printed the one I installed in the gun. It had a very positive impact on the report volume and tone. It's now more comfortable to shoot inside, and the lower tone is more pleasing to my ear.

Best regards,
Mike
Hi Mike, Does that baffle slide onto the moderator or the barrel? I just received a small 3d printer as a gift and have been searchinging for an stl file for a moderator or baffle for my R9. It would be my first project. I believe the printer will print in PLA and ABS, but I'm not at all sure they would be suitable materials. Any info and your experiences would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hi Mike, Does that baffle slide onto the moderator or the barrel? I just received a small 3d printer as a gift and have been searchinging for an stl file for a moderator or baffle for my R9. It would be my first project. I believe the printer will print in PLA and ABS, but I'm not at all sure they would be suitable materials. Any info and your experiences would be greatly appreciated.
Yes it does slip into the end of the HW97. I made mine from PLA. That should be just fine. Send me a PM with your email and I’ll send you the STL file. It should take about an hour to print. I used the most basic settings and no support.

Mike
 
That's funny I never noticed a different sound to them. I'll try to pay attention to it on my next tune. Do they make a different sound than the OE seals or all parachute types?
So far I've tried both on a HW95 in .22. The OEM seal, which has a parachute, sounded softer, the Vortek seal sounded more like a pop, loud but shorter sound. I'm guessing that the OEM seal is either softer or does not attain the same velocity due to higher friction relative to the Vortek seal. Just my observations, your mileage may vary.

-Marty
 
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I got my HW77 moderator today from AoA. The install was straightforward, though tricky with the tiny allen wrench routine; as the Byrds say, Turn, turn, turn. Then turn some more. It's a good item, definitely quieter overall, from the shooter perspective, the sound is lower, which is more pleasant. Instead of a pop, it's more of a dull thud. I would say that the moderator definitely works well.

The sad part, is that with tinnitus, there is no way I can deal with a springer. The vibration effects have my left ear going nuts. Bummer, but it's too painful. So, I'm going to remove the moderator and pack everything up and sell it. I'm curious about PCP's, AoA recommended the Daystate Revere with a moderator as a good choice. I'm hemming and hawing about that. Currently, I've been happy shooting my HW75 and so I'm wondering if perhaps pistol is the way to go since there's nothing against the bones of my head. There's an indoor air gun range nearby so I'm going to check them out and perhaps I'll meet someone that will have a PCP rifle.

HW77Mod.jpg
 
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