I'll never dry fire a springer, I'll install a pellet and shoot one off.....Likewise, I;ll never store a cocked springer either.
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HW/Weihrauch HW97k Questions
- Thread starter bob3006
- Start date
I had the same problem and found a solution that has lasted me many years and thousands of shots. Details here:
hw97k cocking arm pin fix - Airguns & Guns Forum
hw97k cocking arm pin fix, Air guns, Airgun Forum
www.gatewaytoairguns.org
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Yeah... the bolt keeps the wear down. It's a better way to make that connection for sure.
The pin gets loose and "wallows" with every stroke. A nut and bolt gets loose but dosent wallow so the wear is exponentially slower.
It's still going to wear there. Imagine the force on that pin. It's only rotating 1/4 turn but it has a whole bunch of lateral force against it. It's gonna grind.
I fit a little bolt in mine as a temporary fix. Had to grind the head and the nut thinner. It worked until my replacement parts were delivered.
I thought about cutting a channel in the synthetic stock to clear the bolt head and nut but decided against it.
The peened over pin works great if it fits in the cocking lever tightly. If it does not press fit in the cocking arm the pin wallows a little and it wears fast. That's why just replacing the pin dosent work. Once the bore in the cocking arm is worn a pin alone won't fix it.
Once you get a tiny bit of pin movement it creates slack in the linkage. The slack translates to a shortened stroke at both ends. At full stroke it shortens it just enough the safety won't engage. And locked in the return position it won't quite hold the comp tube against the breech. The fit of the linkage on these rifles are critical to their function. Just a tiny bit of slack matters a lot.
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Yeah, I have a break barrel where some "lumberjack" did just that.....What a freaking mess, LOL
I'm going to repair the stock and gift it to someone that shows interest in the sport.
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It's crazy what some guys will do to a rifle.
I have a buddy that has "modified" every rifle he has ever owned. His gun safe is like a peek into a freak show. I refuse to look in there anymore. It just pisses me off.
The work on the HW97 it requires widening a little groove in the cocking slot by about 1/8" to clear a fastener. You'd never notice it. Especially in the black synthetic stock.
If I was in love with the rifle and intended to keep it forever that is how I would handle the linkage problem. It's a good fix. I'm sure many HW97 are modified like that.
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That's crazy, mine has been great. 457 is a great
rimfire, check out pursuit of accuracy if you haven't already.
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It's between the cz457, the Tikka T1x and the Bergara BMR. The CZ is probably the most accurate but the Bergara is short and light. Any of them will shoot under 1 MOA at 100 yards and that's plenty good for me.
I'm leaning toward the Bergara. It's a lot handier gun, has integral 30 moa mounts and costs a few bucks less. It is probably the better all around rifle for me. The CZ is one heck of a rimfire though.
So is the Tikka T1x. I have a Sako, a Husqvarna and a Tikka T3. All are fantastic rifles. The Finnish rifles are truly a work of art. The T1x is an expensive little rascal. You have to REALLY want one (I do).
It's quite a dilemma. I may have to buy all 3. I could buy them all for the price of a PCP.
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I'd probably get the 457, just from watching Josh on pursuit of accuracy, he can wear that thing out..lol. Never tried the rimfire, but I've shot the B14 in 6.5 creed, managed to touch 4 holes together at 200 yards, one just out of the group.
Only rimfire I shoot much anymore is a 17HMR, but if I had a 457 I think I would shoot 22LR more. They're all fun to me.
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I agree. You helped me solve my dilemma.
CZ457 American. It's got a synthetic stock and that suits me. It's just over 6 lbs. and $10 less than the Bergara. It's the best option for me. It's got 11mm dovetail mounts so all my airgun mounts will cross over nicely. 20.5" barrel with a slimmer profile than the varmint but its almost a pound lighter.
I'm not building a match gun. But if I wanted to go that route I have the platform to do it. It will replace the HW97k as my scoped practice rifle for roughly the same price and be about 2.75 lbs. lighter.
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No, because it's cocked there will be no resistance on this cocking stroke. When you reach the end of the stroke apply pressure until the safety resets.
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It doesn't work that way....No, because it's cocked there will be no resistance on this cocking stroke. When you reach the end of the stroke apply pressure until the safety resets.
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Contact HW and see what they have to say... I own numerous 97's and they all (including my several HW77's) work the same way. Fully re-cock and the safety resets. In fact, my break barrels do the same exact thing, re-cock= reset.
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Yes, I think that some are different. When I ordered mine, it was going to be a long wait, so I studied up on them before and during the wait.
A great video was AEC's review of the 97. The one that AoA sent him for testing wouldn't reset the safety, so I assumed that was the way it was going to be.
When mine arrived, the safety would reset, but not unless you relocked it. I didn't know if Steve tried to reset the safety with his thumb (which won't work) or if he ever tried recocking it?
Anyway, you may just have to shoot it.
All the best.
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I've tried it many different times since getting it and make sure it's always fired when the safety is off.Yes, I think that some are different. When I ordered mine, it was going to be a long wait, so I studied up on them before and during the wait.
A great video was AEC's review of the 97. The one that AoA sent him for testing wouldn't reset the safety, so I assumed that was the way it was going to be.
When mine arrived, the safety would reset, but not unless you relocked it. I didn't know if Steve tried to reset the safety with his thumb (which won't work) or if he ever tried recocking it?
Anyway, you may just have to shoot it.
All the best.
it's been a many a time I turned off the safety and then lost the moment to shoot and wished I could reset it back.....
I live with it
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I'm sure it could be converted. I don't know what the parts difference in our rifles are, but I bet it just one small part. I'll ask Shane at AoA the next time I have him on the phone.
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Not setting the safety is common in HW rifles. All of mine fail to set the safety once in a while. Some guys will tell you that you aren't pulling back far enough on the lever and that may indeed cause some of it. But sometimes they just won't reset even when you are fully back to the stop on your cocking stroke. Even when you cock it again.
When my linkage was worn the safety was intermittent at first. Then failed to set completely. Not long after it would fail to set the trigger unless I really cranked it back hard.
I'm not sure if the slack in the linkage would affect the safety on recocking. I do know I can reset the safety now that the slack in the linkage is repaired.
I'm assuming the bolt tail pushes the safety to the side. It seems like if it worked cocking the gun it would also work re-cocking it. I'm going to dig into mine when I receive my new spring kit. I'll make it a point to figure out how that safety works. I can't imagine why it would set on cocking but not on a re-cock. It must work differently than I visualize.
When my linkage was worn the safety was intermittent at first. Then failed to set completely. Not long after it would fail to set the trigger unless I really cranked it back hard.
I'm not sure if the slack in the linkage would affect the safety on recocking. I do know I can reset the safety now that the slack in the linkage is repaired.
I'm assuming the bolt tail pushes the safety to the side. It seems like if it worked cocking the gun it would also work re-cocking it. I'm going to dig into mine when I receive my new spring kit. I'll make it a point to figure out how that safety works. I can't imagine why it would set on cocking but not on a re-cock. It must work differently than I visualize.
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