So I guess not normal with the valve closed? This is with the knob removed so you can see where it is leaking. It was leaking at the valve and where the knob was connected. Anybody tear one down to reseal?
How do I do it?
Allen.
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I dont think this is supposed to happen..
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So I guess not normal with the valve closed? This is with the knob removed so you can see where it is leaking. It was leaking at the valve and where the knob was connected. Anybody tear one down to reseal?
How do I do it?
Allen.
From what I can see, it looks like a Brancato valve. If it is, you can email them for a rebuild kit. It’s possible it can be tightened a bit but am not familiar with that valves design.
A word of caution though. It is standard procedure to never tighten things that are under pressure. It is in your best interest to drain the tank and then tighten it if it is able to be tightened.
When you gamble with safety, you bet your life.
A word of caution though. It is standard procedure to never tighten things that are under pressure. It is in your best interest to drain the tank and then tighten it if it is able to be tightened.
When you gamble with safety, you bet your life.
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Most dive shops can sell you the new guts, ask me how I know (cheaper thru them) not joe b.
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Valve Stem Packing seal Leak....
If it is a Joe B valve/tank.. Contact him... he will help you get the parts to sort it out!!
If it is a Joe B valve/tank.. Contact him... he will help you get the parts to sort it out!!
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Well this is interesting. Kinda wish I knew beforehand although I kind of suspectEd it when I tried to remove the cap to reseal. Rather than get just a seal kit I was hoping to get the assembly so I could have a backup should I run into this situation again. Turns out that's all joe sold! 
Opon looking the valve over I see that the stem cap (?) has left hand threads! So...
TURN CLOCKWISE TO LOOSEN the JB air tank valve's stem caps! Use a 7/8" or 22mm wrench. Of course open the valve beforehand to empty the tank as it has direct high air pressure behind this valve. This will take a while so best to just crack open the valve and let I empty overnight and allow the tank to warm up to ambient temperature.
Here is the seat on the old valve. You can see the depression in the plastic seal
Vs. the new one.
Although it may still be good because I found this at the valve.
See the piece of brass there?
But it still leaked thru the stem when I had my finger over the opening. I tore apart the valve seal assembly and this is what comes out.
It looks like a brass or copper washer that disintegrated. Which is kind of weird as the new valve assembly doesn't look like it has one.
And yes my old assembly does have the delrin bushing in it it's just kinda locked in the old housing. I did notice that there a whitish cake like substance on the stem side. Maybe a dried out lubricant?
I was going to just go to a scuba or scba place that delt with air tanks or high pressure air but I only had Saturday off to go. Joe was open and more convenient that day. If you have re-sealed your JB valve please comment as to whether or not you were able to find a capable valve seat at a aftermarket source and if you know what valve would interchange with this.
The valve seal is a right hand metric threaded M12 x 1.25 , it does look very similar to other scba and scuba valve seals that were available on the net. I just was not sure of the thread size of the seal. Apparently many of the valve seals available that state the size are standard thread 1/2 - 20 unf.
After everything was put together I filled the tank to 250 bar. I'm going to leak check it and if good, fill to 300 bar. Hopefully I can go to the range Monday!
thanks for all the advice.
Allen
Opon looking the valve over I see that the stem cap (?) has left hand threads! So...
TURN CLOCKWISE TO LOOSEN the JB air tank valve's stem caps! Use a 7/8" or 22mm wrench. Of course open the valve beforehand to empty the tank as it has direct high air pressure behind this valve. This will take a while so best to just crack open the valve and let I empty overnight and allow the tank to warm up to ambient temperature.
Here is the seat on the old valve. You can see the depression in the plastic seal
Vs. the new one.
Although it may still be good because I found this at the valve.
See the piece of brass there?
But it still leaked thru the stem when I had my finger over the opening. I tore apart the valve seal assembly and this is what comes out.
It looks like a brass or copper washer that disintegrated. Which is kind of weird as the new valve assembly doesn't look like it has one.
And yes my old assembly does have the delrin bushing in it it's just kinda locked in the old housing. I did notice that there a whitish cake like substance on the stem side. Maybe a dried out lubricant?
I was going to just go to a scuba or scba place that delt with air tanks or high pressure air but I only had Saturday off to go. Joe was open and more convenient that day. If you have re-sealed your JB valve please comment as to whether or not you were able to find a capable valve seat at a aftermarket source and if you know what valve would interchange with this.
The valve seal is a right hand metric threaded M12 x 1.25 , it does look very similar to other scba and scuba valve seals that were available on the net. I just was not sure of the thread size of the seal. Apparently many of the valve seals available that state the size are standard thread 1/2 - 20 unf.
After everything was put together I filled the tank to 250 bar. I'm going to leak check it and if good, fill to 300 bar. Hopefully I can go to the range Monday!
thanks for all the advice.Allen
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