I need help to stop my scope from always breaking

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I have a hatsan striker edge th 177.cal that has been upgraded with a stronger spring (weak spring 700fps - strong spring 1000fps). I recently got a new scope for the gun so i tried to zero it, but i had some problems so i looked and saw that the scope had been sliding back and ruined one of the scope rings, i think its becaue the piston is slaming into the end wall of the piston chamber because the pellet is leaving the barrel to early. So i would like to get some help to determine any solution that could fix my problem. I have come up with a few ideas that might work but i want your input and ideas before i do anything

1. get steel scope rings instead of the cheap aluminium ones i have now.

2. install a higer caliber barrel to shoot heavier pellets so that they leave the barrel later.

3. go back to the old weaker spring. i dont want to do this unless its my only option
 
Aluminum rings are just fine, they tend to grab steel really well. 1000 ft./s out of a 17 Springer shouldn’t be a problem. Those holes in the top of your receiver are meant to have a pin that comes down through the ring into the hole. I can just see from the corner of your picture that your ring does have that type of a pin.

This has nothing to do with the speed at which your pallet is leaving the barrel.

Remember when you line the pin up, that the recoil is the opposite for a spring gun and a firearm. 


mike
 
I just looked at your pictures again. Your rings definitely have the pin you need. Look at the top picture. Just take a file and scrub those rough spots off the rings, smooth it out and remount. 


The pin can either be lowered by hitting it with a punch from above, when the ring is off, Some of them you move with an Allen screw.

The gun kicks forward, so before you tighten your rings up slide the scope in the pinhole to the back, and then tighten them down.

mike
 
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from the pictures it looks to me like you have a Alan screw pin , and your tightening the pin down after you mount the ring on the rifle ? The pin should be extended before the ring is mounted on the rifle so you have to mount the scope ring with the pin centered in one of the holes

in the rifle before you can tighten the the dovetail onto the rifle . looks to me like you did it backwards , mounted the ring then screwed the pin down.



Stan in KY 
 
From what I see, you need to take a little more care in the assembly and tightening of the scope and rings. Looks like the ring(s) were not properly seated on the guns rail, before the fasteners were tightened.

1.) Install the rings, fully to the rail / dovetail, but do not tighten, just snug. VERIFY that the rings are "fully" engaged with the rail

2.) install the scope to the rings with both caps, lightly snug, do not tighten now. EVENLY snug the caps. That is, do not tighten "one" screw at a time. Go around and around, tightening evenly in a circle.

3.) Snug the rings to the gun, but not fully tight

4.) Set the scope level.

5.) Tighten the rings to the rail.

6.) Tighten the ring caps to the scope. EVENLY tighten the ring caps. That is, do not tighten "one" screw at a time. Go around and around, tightening evenly in a circle.

7.) Shoot a few rounds, then retighten all fasteners.



Mike
 
As per my first post, you extend the pin first, then when you go to put it on the rifle it slides into the hole...then you tighten the rings on. As I mentioned above, there should be some play or movement when the pin goes in the hole. Push the ring with the pin up tight towards the front of the rifle before you tighten them down.

Here's the good news. the ring will cover the mark. That's a shooter.anyway. It's how we all learn...never force anything - it should all slide together smooth...come back and ask more questions.

If you post a thread like this in the Tradition Rifle section, you will get 1000 replies. 

I am sorry for the confusion. When you tightend the allen screw down you missed the hole.

Once you get it put back together you won't notice, and it shouldn't move.

Important - the pin should be set well into the hole, but not touching the bottom.

Good luck!

Mike
 
Use an RWS Lockdown mount. It was designed for hard recoiling springers. You have damaged your receiver already, so you may need to disassemble and debut the scope stop pin hole. Decrease the mount and groove with brake cleaner before mounting, and use loctite on all threads including the scope stop pin. Base screws get tightened to 20 inch lbs and rings get torqued to 15 inch lbs.
 
First, while you could use those holes for a stop pin, they're actually threaded and were meant for small screws that hold a scope ring stop plate on top of the Edge among a bunch of other Hatsan rifles that also have them. I've owned 20+, still own 14 and every one of them has that stop plate on them. If you bought the rifle new, it should have come with that stop plate already on it. 

First picture is that stop plate and screws. I use the front 2 holes on all mine and yours at least in your pictures look fine. Clean well with alcohol, dab of Vibra Tite VC-3 on the screws and install the plate making sure that raised edge is facing forward. Once that's done, I mount my front ring with the back edge butted snug against the stop plate and tighten it in place. Then I mount the rear scope ring loose so I can slide it as needed, set the scope on the rings, slide the rear ring and scope to where I want them, then tighten down the rear ring. Once that's done, set the ring tops on, lightly snug the screws enough that I can turn the scope as needed to level the reticle and once it is, I tighten the cap screws. 

I still check them regularly, but I've never had a ring move or a scope move in the rings done the way I just described. 

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