Use a brass brush and a cleaning rod with a bore guide.. Heat barrel... Pour lead over the brush...
I want to do some firelapping on my .22 liners
- Thread starter bigHUN
- Start date
Other than being longer than you intended, what was wrong with the lap you photographed? It looks to me that it filled out sufficiently to apply abrasive and go to work.
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Even at that, what's wrong with cutting to the length that you want, then rounding the end so no burs?
mike
mike
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It was very tight in the bore. I sand it down the OD and still. Cut the length and still tight w/o a paste, with paste no way I could push it in the bore.
I didn't use scrap lead, the lead is clean I melted some .177 pellets I have no use for.
Spent couple hours on it in a cold garage - yes I had a big electric heater working all time.... maybe the Temp is not good??
So just put it aside for now I may revisit when the weather warms up a bit.
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Next attempt 
Switched the liner from 25x700 to 25x600 and I can use the shorter CF bar now.
I put a decent effort to tweak the plug start entering the led in, and moves now .......
Interestingly, the two liners same TwistRate 1:27 .... but the land and groove depth ratio may be different. These liners several years from time there was no sticker on them or engraving. I don't know the production revisions.
It feels that the shorter liner Land (ID) is bigger. I will not go back to longer liner to doublecheck, that is done with mops and ready for storage.
Tonight I will not go to sleep before I finish this one
Switched the liner from 25x700 to 25x600 and I can use the shorter CF bar now.
I put a decent effort to tweak the plug start entering the led in, and moves now .......
Interestingly, the two liners same TwistRate 1:27 .... but the land and groove depth ratio may be different. These liners several years from time there was no sticker on them or engraving. I don't know the production revisions.
It feels that the shorter liner Land (ID) is bigger. I will not go back to longer liner to doublecheck, that is done with mops and ready for storage.
Tonight I will not go to sleep before I finish this one
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Diamond compound will work fine on a barrel. Soft or hardened doesn't matter. I would use it on a home made pull thru, like for cleaning a barrel. If your set on fire lapping order seneca pellets from PA. .22 and .25 in stock
For aluminum use semi chrome polish.
For aluminum use semi chrome polish.
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I finished lapping two .25 liners (1:27 x700 and x600) a day before yesterday, and quiet happy with rifling smooth consistency. Shall work well for pellets.
But the next .25 liner 1:18 giving me a headache a second day already. I casted a 2" slug (with a mops wire), but it is soo tight on both ends (middle is loose), keeps me breaking the wire ... broke today a forth-and last one I had.
Got pretty emotional and put all aside for today.... I need to get couple new mops from a store. Tinkering about some new strategy how to finish these two remaining liners in 25. These are slug liners, too much of a contact surface.
But the next .25 liner 1:18 giving me a headache a second day already. I casted a 2" slug (with a mops wire), but it is soo tight on both ends (middle is loose), keeps me breaking the wire ... broke today a forth-and last one I had.
Got pretty emotional and put all aside for today.... I need to get couple new mops from a store. Tinkering about some new strategy how to finish these two remaining liners in 25. These are slug liners, too much of a contact surface.
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Moisture it only with oil but not a lot and not every time. And the oil is thin and very running.
Why?
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Unfortunately that is the toughest situation for lapping. If the breech isn’t excessively constricted, you can cast the lap there and work on it to open it up. For example this is a common issue with LW barrels that can usually be worked out without too much difficulty.
But if it’s really severe, one of the options on the table is to shorten the barrel to remove the offending portion. It’s not a hard decision if the barrel groups poorly but a little harder if it is giving glimpses of being able to shoot well.
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This is a .25 slug 1:24 liner I am working on currently - common language use as Superior Heavy.
I have polish it in the past with patches and didn't noticed anything like this before, but the full solid casted plug show the flaw - tight at breach and muzzle and loose on the middle.
This is a x700 length and I tried really hard for a good + year but could not shoot well for my 100 meters BR, that was a possible reason I gave up on slugs entirely.
I have also a shorter x600 the same TR, and doesn't makes sense to me shortening the x700 - unless if I cut off the choke instead. The choke I cannot feel much with patches but with the casted plug is very aggressively defined.
Tinkering tomorrow to pickup from a store a half dozen cotton mops, and cast maybe two plugs, one to sand it down the OD for pre-sizing and rerun the next to open up the breach end. I realized that w/o sanding OD I will break the wire quickly....
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I've cast a plug today into a 1:24 TR Sup.Hev x700 liner. And cannot remove or knock it out now even with a hammer ....
Melt it out? and try again?
Melt it out? and try again?
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I don't know if this could be the trouble....but if a barrel has been previously polished....a cast lap will be almost impossible to move.
You will have to melt it out.
Mike
You will have to melt it out.
Mike
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This would be it.... Thanks Thomas, I am always learning new tricks from you
Fully emotionally I put this liner aside over the weekend, but tomorrow morning looks a promising day again.
A diamond paste - what I have documented the most coarse is 40 mikrons, about a same grit as the Clover compound ceramic.
I have two harder-coarse colors but long ago I lost the specs sticker on those.... I was using those only for roughing the crowning. On tip of my fingertip I can feel these not smooth.
I will pull through only 2-3 patches to "sand" the groove/land surfaces a little bit to remove the shine, and will try to cast again.
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