it will probably be the one i buy @ toys that shoot this year if i find what i want that is .
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If you could only have one CO2 pistol?
- Thread starter Septicdeath
- Start date
I also have two, an earlier model with the adjustable trigger. The later model is quite good, but that earlierr order with the adjustable trigger is fantastic.
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SD, I share your enthusiasm for the Crosman 38 guns. They were real game-changers back in the day. I've accumulated 6 or 7 of them now, only one of which has good seals. I've also acquired three other newer CO2 revolvers, each of which has things to like about it but none of them is perfect. I really need to get a couple more of my 38s up and running.
Right now, if I could have "only one," I'd have to go with my Springfield Armory Mil-Spec 1911. AMAZING replication of the real thing and adequate accuracy for basement shooting--what's not to love?
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Love my Tanfolio 1911 for quick draw double tap practice,
pretty accurate, the blowback is nice, I have 3 mags so I can keep going for a bit and the CO2 cartriges have time to war up again ( I only load 10 rounds per mag )
for me CO2 makes sense since it rarely goes under 80 degrees here.
pretty accurate, the blowback is nice, I have 3 mags so I can keep going for a bit and the CO2 cartriges have time to war up again ( I only load 10 rounds per mag )
for me CO2 makes sense since it rarely goes under 80 degrees here.
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Well since I turned my 2240 into a 17 carbine, this is the only one I have. It’s a “Dan Wesson.”
Ok for d/a trigger practice, but then I have since sold them all but for a couple.
The plan for this one is to use as a salt gun for carpenter bees.
Unless I have extra money and happen a cross a classic 150 or 79g, I will likely not own another.
Not because I don’t like them, I just don’t have a use for them.
Ok for d/a trigger practice, but then I have since sold them all but for a couple.
The plan for this one is to use as a salt gun for carpenter bees.
Unless I have extra money and happen a cross a classic 150 or 79g, I will likely not own another.
Not because I don’t like them, I just don’t have a use for them.
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Sorry I haven't gotten to this sooner J, but I've been too sick to do anything but sleep since your post.
Anyone using this information to modify a trigger does so completely at their own risk, and cannot transfer responsibility for any shortage of common sense to me.
You're looking for the sear engagement screw (top) and trigger over-travel screw (bottom). I consider the over-travel screw almost a superfluous option; the magic lies in the sear engagement screw. Placement of either is critical.
Should you need more details of information, you'll have to call me.
Regards,
Ron
254-253-1239
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When i replied to this thread I only had one.
Well this last weekend was a legofest where several Crosman products shape shifted.
The 2240 has a very mixed up history, but this configuration seems best. As a pistol, I shoot this much better than my 1701P.
So the 1701 is now a carbine.
The barrel is from my 1300kt, the grip frame is 1701P.
So that makes it a 1741 I think.
Corcoran walnut grips.
Well this last weekend was a legofest where several Crosman products shape shifted.
The 2240 has a very mixed up history, but this configuration seems best. As a pistol, I shoot this much better than my 1701P.
So the 1701 is now a carbine.
The barrel is from my 1300kt, the grip frame is 1701P.
So that makes it a 1741 I think.
Corcoran walnut grips.
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i have no Co2 guns but really like the looks of the 150's , looking for one @ toys that shoot the end of this month , what should i look out for (bad things)
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The most recent CO2 pistol I have is the diana (artemis) air bug. It can be shot with single load or magazine. It is very accurate and fun to shoot at 10m. Price is right as well. Best one Ive had.
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Man, that's a loaded question; but I'll try to help.
As if airguns originally bought primarily for rug-rats don't get abused and neglected enough, especially Co2 guns, 150s are about a half-century old!
1) Don't waste your time on any examples in less than very good to excellent cosmetic condition. The further you stray below that, the exponentially greater the chance(s) it's got more than cosmetic issues. The closer to pristine, the better chance(s) it has no irreparable functional issues.
2) Take a bore-light or small flashlight to check the bore(s) carefully. Healthy 150s with undamaged rifling are capable of 1/2" to 3/4" groups at 25 yards, but you WON'T find a replacement 150 barrel anywhere if you need one. Suffice to say it's not beyond rug-rats to shoot .175 BBs in a .22 rifled bore (or worse); and/or use a wire clothes hanger to push out whatever they've gotten stuck in the rifling.
Look closely for scratched, pitted, or otherwise damaged rifling or muzzle-crowns.3) Also take a few 12 gram Co2 cartridges with you. When/if you find a 150 passing the first two requisites (quite likely), ask the seller if it's also functionally happy, healthy, and doesn't leak. If they say it's all good, I'll often reply that if that is truly the case I'll take it... then, while watching the seller's body-language (especially facial), I'll produce a Co2 cartridge and ask if it's okay to check the gun for leaks. If the seller doesn't agree to that, I walk away.
It's always a losing proposition to buy any airgun from a liar.4) But if the seller agrees to the leak test, and the gun leaks, any asking price based on assurances it doesn't leak is obsolete.
Since I can reseal a 150, I'll offer $50 less than I'd pay if the gun doesn't leak. But if you can't reseal one (yourself), $50 isn't enough difference between a healthy 150 and a leaking albatross around your neck. Hiring someone to reseal a 150 will likely cost around $50, likely plus shipping (both directions). Might not hurt to price a 150 reseal before the show. I only reseal my own guns; but there are those that do it professionally.I hope this helps, and you don't hold my realistic suggestions against me. Unmuzzled honesty is one of my more maddening personality quirks.
BT, feel free to call me if you find a promising example at the show and could use more information/opinions. I'm neither allergic to conversation nor hesitant to help fellow airgunners. Being retired and divorced, I don't have normal folks' distractions like a job, wife, or responsibilities. I'm happy to help.
Happy Shopping,
Ron
254-253-1239
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WOW wonderful thankyou very much . the 150 was on my list but down on the list , actually im looking for SSP first top on the list . IZH 46, S&W 78/79GMan, that's a loaded question; but I'll try to help.
As if airguns originally bought primarily for rug-rats don't get abused and neglected enough, especially Co2 guns, 150s are about a half-century old!
1) Don't waste your time on any examples in less than very good to excellent cosmetic condition. The further you stray below that, the exponentially greater the chance(s) it's got more than cosmetic issues. The closer to pristine, the better chance(s) it has no irreparable functional issues.
2) Take a bore-light or small flashlight to check the bore(s) carefully. Healthy 150s with undamaged rifling are capable of 1/2" to 3/4" groups at 25 yards, but you WON'T find a replacement 150 barrel anywhere if you need one. Suffice to say it's not beyond rug-rats to shoot .175 BBs in a .22 rifled bore (or worse); and/or use a wire clothes hanger to push out whatever they've gotten stuck in the rifling.
3) Also take a few 12 gram Co2 cartridges with you. When/if you find a 150 passing the first two requisites (quite likely), ask the seller if it's also functionally happy, healthy, and doesn't leak. If they say it's all good, I'll often reply that if that is truly the case I'll take it... then, while watching the seller's body-language (especially facial), I'll produce a Co2 cartridge and ask if it's okay to check the gun for leaks. If the seller doesn't agree to that, I walk away.
4) But if the seller agrees to the leak test, and the gun leaks, any asking price based on assurances it doesn't leak is obsolete.
I hope this helps, and you don't hold my realistic suggestions against me. Unmuzzled honesty is one of my more maddening personality quirks.
BT, feel free to call me if you find a promising example at the show and could use more information/opinions. I'm neither allergic to conversation nor hesitant to help fellow airgunners. Being retired and divorced, I don't have normal folks' distractions like a job, wife, or responsibilities. I'm happy to help.
Happy Shopping,
Ron
254-253-1239
Daisy 717 , AV46M which i can get new with a $100 more for lefty . thanks for the advise , yes i have a bore light . Stan
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SteveV
so I am thinking about getting a Colt SAA.. are there hpa conversion kits for it? I only have PCP guns and well I bought the umarex notos pistol and it is huge, I'm a fan of cowboy guns.. I just wish for a compact PCP pistol.. I figured if I got the Colt SAA, it would probably lead to the umarex lever action and possibly a custom built Colt SAA with a 3 " barrel.. and down the rabbit hole buying CO2 cartridges.. I'd rather a few shots on PCP air as I rarely shoot over 20 rounds unless I get my blitz out...
also I understand that the seal where the CO2 is would get compressed if CO2 cartridges left in.. but I can't figure out other than that why CO2 will damage the seals in the gun and yet we are supposed to store PCP guns with air to prevent damage to the seals.. must be something I don't understand about CO2.. or it just the cartridge seal.. Mark Hooper
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can anyone explain to me what is so different about CO2 and PCP seals, guess I don't understand why we keep the PCP guns charged to protect the seals but CO2 empty to protect the seals.. unless there's something I have not thought of, and likely there is.. I can only think it's the seal for the neck of the cartridge being compressed over time and gets ruined.. I'd think that if CO2 itself damaged seals, they would be made out of a more comfortable material.. Mark Hooper
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Co2 will
Can CO2 guns be left charged? The answer sometimes “yes” and sometimes “no.” It depends on the design of the gun. Some of the guns that charge a compression tube i have left for extended periods without a problem. I always remove them from the others. Especially pistols.
Follow the instructions in the manual but not to absolute about it. You can leave a gun charged overnight and even for several days; but before it’s put away, if the instructions tell you to remove the cartridge, that’s what you should do. Co2 will eventually perminate the synthetic seals unlike air in a PCP.
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