For those who have an M3; have you noticed the oring slightly protrude into the channel where the brass allen screw is on the block? No matter what size I use or what I do, I notice this. You can slightly see it in the photo below.
Impact M3 1st reg
- Thread starter 7Green
- Start date
Do you know what is the purpose of the brass screw? Wondering why FX didn't just make a solid face.
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End sealing screws for the Internal air passage from the first Reg to second Reg.....
Stuart
Stuart
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^ He's correct, that's the channel the air uses from the front of the block to the regulator. They look like a regulator screw with one O-ring.
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Btw... I have removed my 1st reg many times... cleaning and tuning..
The Sealing O-ring is recessed on the mating face of the Reg.
I don't have this problem....
Stuart
The Sealing O-ring is recessed on the mating face of the Reg.
I don't have this problem....
Stuart
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Backing out the screw as suggested fixed the issue. I have been hunting down a slow leak for a few days now and I think I may have just found it. I thought it was the reg at first and rebuilt it a few times before noticing that. After fixing that, it was still slowly leaking. Turns out the oring on the small black screw, opposite of the fill gauge was leaking. Replaced that and am now in test mode for leaks again.
I also installed the first reg delete after fixing that leak because I mainly shoot slugs and the first reg isn't of much use to me.
I set my 2nd reg (huma extra hp) at around 170 bar to 172 bar. I'll see where it settles eventually. My though is a hp, short burst of air would be better than a lower pressure, longer burst of air (valve dwell time while open).
I also installed the first reg delete after fixing that leak because I mainly shoot slugs and the first reg isn't of much use to me.
I set my 2nd reg (huma extra hp) at around 170 bar to 172 bar. I'll see where it settles eventually. My though is a hp, short burst of air would be better than a lower pressure, longer burst of air (valve dwell time while open).
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Well, I have the slowest leak known to man. About a bar an hour. I am tempted to just dunk it in the bathtub to find it. Then disassemble the whole thing to fix and dry it. For now I took the bottle off and am letting the air sit in the plenum to see which half of the gun is the culprit.
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A good Bath isn the way to go with a bothersome slow Leak!!
I use my Pool….
Good Luck
Stuart
I use my Pool….
Good Luck
Stuart
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Well after 7 hours, the rear half of the gun holds a constant pressure, so it must be some where in the front half. Good thing is that means less disassembly. Bad thing is I have no clue where it is. I am very near the tub test lol.
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I just bought the first reg delete fitting from k and lypt.
I had the same thought as you. Higher pressure and shorter dwell may solve my problem. I just bought an m3 and it's stiction issues are terrible. It takes 5 shots to bring my poi up after it sits even for a short time. I'm hoping the additional force required to open the valve will minimize the oring sticking severity.
I had the same thought as you. Higher pressure and shorter dwell may solve my problem. I just bought an m3 and it's stiction issues are terrible. It takes 5 shots to bring my poi up after it sits even for a short time. I'm hoping the additional force required to open the valve will minimize the oring sticking severity.
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The shorter dwell of a higher pressure burst in theory should help with how loud the gun is, some accuracy issues, and hopefully speed inconsistancy. There is a long post about the stiction issues with the impact. Too long for me to stay focused and read at this point. I just need the highlights like make this oring this type and the valve out of this. Short sweet and to the point.
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With the first reg delete; does anyone know what can be used to plug the hole where the 1st reg pressure gauge is? I am figuring it needs some sort of oring setup to seal tight.
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