Impact M3 random leak - Help

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Need some help, trouble removing power plenum from power block. Obviously some loctite at play here, how much heat can I put into this hex head grub screw.

@Vetmx @GA_LeadHead

DAFA00C0-F949-491C-AD44-4EDB8CE0C7A9.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Heavyopp said:
Need some help, trouble removing power plenum from power block. Obviously some loctite at play here, how much heat can I put into this hex head screw.

View attachment 322725
Click to expand...
I'd say a 6/10. What kind of heat are you thinking? I'd use a propane torch for 5-10 seconds. I've taken apart a few impacts and never seen loctite on this although they're usually quite tight.
 
Upvote 0
I’ve got a small butane/micronox torch — tiny hot blue flame but I have to source the Micronox, its long discontinued but just a small nitrous oxide cylinder, same as whip its at walmart. Microflame is the torch name. This is probably too hot anyway.

could use a heat gun, hot air, heat up the whole thing — could always go plumbers torch

Maybe a good soldering iron, could keep the heat localized.

I tried the bic lighter, couldn’t really get it very hot. Didn’t stay on it very long.

I’m done with it for the night, tired, got that far fairly easily, don’t want to strip that out now.
 
Upvote 0
It’s amazing how much easier screws come out when you clamp your piece in a soft jaw vice. If you don’t have that block clamped, you are working against the cushion of the hand holding it and it seems tighter than it actually is. It probably doesn’t have loc-tite on it. But it will make a loud snap when you crack it loose. A trait with screws and anodized parts.
 
Upvote 0
Got lucky, grub screw is out, barely.
Definitely some sort of goo on the threads. Not sure if its lok tite red, almost looks like a thread sealant.

Hex hole in screw is trashed, I won’t put it back in for fear of not getting it out again. Had to use the wiha allen key with a pair of vice grips on the key holding close to the grub screw. Wiha 4mm fit the best out of everything I had.

Absolutely needed heat wasn’t gonna budge without, used heat gun not torch. Just warmed up the whole power block.

Once again I’m stuck waiting on FX, too late to call them today. Not open again till monday. Took almost 2 weeks to get the valve stem and new valve body.

I don’t even think I’ve shot a tin of pellets thru this gun. Frustrated.

4FF66058-C2CB-4C04-A697-648CFF9C967C.jpeg
4CB66FAD-5BC0-4DFE-82D9-D42EA4CE80A1.jpeg
 
Upvote 0
Just checking the new valve body and valve stem.
Valve body was supposed to be a new upgraded version, my gun must have already had it, valve bodies are identical.

There is a difference in valve stems. New stem has less threads which are closer to the end. Hopefully this doesn’t effect getting C1 to the same position as before. I don’t think it will hurt me much, don’t have any tunes or valve settings I need to repeat. Was working on a valve setting when the leak arose.

New stem on right.

D960CDA2-9291-4456-B60B-D896A0D10003.jpeg
 
Upvote 0
Heavyopp said:
Fx impact M3 .22 caliber
1st reg 130
2nd reg 75
valve just above line 4

I get a random leak in the valve. Leaks through the barrel or breach if action is open. Slowly. You can hear it.
It’s not constant, I can shoot a dozen times, shot 13 will leak. Can’t stop it with another shot or 2 or 3.

I can stop the leak in 2 ways. Turn the valve counterclockwise, opening it more will stop the leak for a few more shots. Obviously changes my velocity.

I can also stop the leak by removing the bottle and let the gun bleed out. Reinstall the bottle and all is well for another random number of shots till it happens again.

What is happening? How do I fix?

thanks.
Click to expand...
Afriend had same problem he said the problem was the pop-it O ring was bad
 
Upvote 0
Heavyopp said:
Oring kit ordered from Yenniedn — he has full kits listed in classifieds.

Have wiha metric allen keys, used to be quality, bought some stuff this year direct from wiha. Seems good but haven’t really used them much. Have 30 year old craftsman kits too.

Only thing I’ll need is C1 stuff but I like to do a little learning before just buying very specific task tooling.
Click to expand...
If you have a 3d printer, or know someone that does, you can print a C1 tool. I did and it works just fine.
 
Upvote 0
Ernest Rowe on Youtube He has a channel, and he also does videos on FX's channel) is who you want to follow. He has a real good disassembly and reassembly video, along with others. He does talk about C1, and mentioned that the exact position doesn't matter too much, and gave a measurement that would work. That may have been in his hammer weight replacement video.
 
Upvote 0
C1 was easy to remove, a few seconds with a bic lighter to soften the loctite, a pair of channel locks with pads to hold the stem, and a # 50 drill bit which fit the C1 holes perfectly — came off easily

It will not be exactly the same with the newly designed stem. From what I saw the C1 will bottom out on the stem before getting as short an assembly as the previous stem/c1 combo.

I’m waiting to talk to FX tech, closed today. I want to know what the goop is on the grub screw. It’s not hard like loctite, I really think it’s thread sealant but will confirm tomorrow with a tech. I also need a replacement.
I will also ask about the new stem/c1 combo.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu