FX Impact M3 valve adjuster hitting barrel shroud

Jump to latest Follow Reply
F

Floridaman2005

Member
Oct 11, 2024
33
18
Hello Nation,

Just purchased a new .22 Impact M3 and was going through all the basics and setting up the rifle. When attempting to adjust the valve adjuster, I noticed that the valve adjuster was hitting the barrel shroud, making it impossible to open passed 3.5 lines. This is my first PCP so I’m still learning everything. What do I need to adjust in order to move the shroud away from the valve adjustment knob?

IMG_9760.jpeg


IMG_9763.jpeg
 
ImpactX said:
There's 3 options

1, loosen your clamp and barrel set screw and pull the barrel out a mm just to clear it.
2, order an mk2 valve adjuster they are slimmer and will have no issues with the barrel making contact to the knob.
3. Just don't go pass line 3.5
Click to expand...
I don’t mind not going past 3.5 but if I understand correctly, I’ll be missing out on a little bit of potential power by not being able to go out any further.
 
Upvote 0
There are different shroud lengths and ends depending on what version of which rifle you have. My M3 Compact has the flat end and is 6-5/16" long from moderator to the rear cap. I have enough room to open the valve stop to about 4.5 lines before making contact with the shroud. My barrel assembly is exactly flush in relation to the brass transfer-port and the rear of the action breech. If your barrel assembly is installed too far rearward that might account for some of the issue. You might be able to unscrew the shroud and install a small spacer or washer on the end of the barrel housing to move the shroud forward a bit.
 
Upvote 0
MongooseV8 said:
There are different shroud lengths and ends depending on what version of which rifle you have. My M3 Compact has the flat end and is 6-5/16" long from moderator to the rear cap. I have enough room to open the valve stop to about 4.5 lines before making contact with the shroud. My barrel assembly is exactly flush in relation to the brass transfer-port and the rear of the action breech. If your barrel assembly is installed too far rearward that might account for some of the issue. You might be able to unscrew the shroud and install a small spacer or washer on the end of the barrel housing to move the shroud forward a bit.
Click to expand...
I’d be willing to do that but I’m not sure how. How do you remove the shroud?
 
Upvote 0
Floridaman2005 said:
Any idea what I can look at to adjust or what I can do to get my shroud further from the valve adjuster? I’m not sure how most of this moves yet.
Click to expand...
If it is a new airgun, let the dealer of FX sort it out. You can unscrew your shroud but that is not a solution. And loosening the barrel barrel assembly to move it forward also sounds like a weird one as it would mess up how the chamber end fits.
To give you a ruff idea: the barrel assembly consists of the transfer port that screws into the barrel (the black tube which contains your liner) and the other end is capped by a long threaded piece (the liner lock). The shroud screws onto that last piece. I may be some piece that is too short, a tolerance issue,... But with a new airgun it is not your problem to fix.
 
  • Like
Reactions: coastal drifter
Upvote 0
R_M said:
.... You can unscrew your shroud but that is not a solution. And loosening the barrel barrel assembly to move it forward also sounds like a weird one as it would mess up how the chamber end fits....
Click to expand...
I dont think anyone was suggesting to unscrew the shroud and leave it loose. As for the barrel assembly, there is actually quite a bit of tolerance slop in the transfer-port notch. I have a handful of FX pcps and like 20 barrel assemblies, and a lot of them bottom out the notch way too far rearward. Sometimes the mags wont even fit. I wouldnt go further forward than flush in any situation, but that extra 0.100" of slop might be enough.
 
Upvote 0
MongooseV8 said:
I dont think anyone was suggesting to unscrew the shroud and leave it loose. As for the barrel assembly, there is actually quite a bit of tolerance slop in the transfer-port notch. I have a handful of FX pcps and like 20 barrel assemblies, and a lot of them bottom out the notch way too far rearward. Sometimes the mags wont even fit. I wouldnt go further forward than flush in any situation, but that extra 0.100" of slop might be enough.
Click to expand...
I tried to move the barrel but I’m not even sure I moved it. I really don’t have much room to slide the barrel forward. Can you tell me what screws need to be loosened to remove the barrel? Everything seems so tight. I know there is a screw towards the rear of the gun that holds the barrel in place, but there’s also 2 screws up near the valve adjuster that have something to do with the barrel as well, right? And I can’t turn the shroud at all. Seems very tight. Does the threaded piece at the end of the barrel need to come out?
 
Upvote 0
On the Impact M3 there is the rear barrel set screw, and on the newer versions like yours; the front barrel support block has a 2 screw clamp that needs to be loosened. The shroud should come apart as a unit, but it is made up of 3 parts. There is a muzzle brake end cap, the tube, and the rear cap. Both end caps are threaded into the shroud tube, and the brake end cap threads onto the barrel liner locking nut. Here is a pic I just took that shows what the barrel housing looks like out of the rifle and with the shroud removed.

vaaXERqh.jpeg

rxF8QMvh.jpeg
 
Upvote 0
Some notes:

If you want to remove the shroud it is best to do that while the barrel assembly is still secured in the breech to avoid damaging the brass notch or unscrewing the barrel assembly parts. Also I would only move the barrel assembly forward if you can see it is sticking out proud of the breech at the rear. If it is flush already you dont really want to move it. There is a longer center section that the mag indexes off of which I am not referring to, but the main OD of the brass transfer-port piece.
 
Upvote 0
MongooseV8 said:
Some notes:

If you want to remove the shroud it is best to do that while the barrel assembly is still secured in the breech to avoid damaging the brass notch or unscrewing the barrel assembly parts. Also I would only move the barrel assembly forward if you can see it is sticking out proud of the breech at the rear. If it is flush already you dont really want to move it. There is a longer center section that the mag indexes off of which I am not referring to, but the main OD of the brass transfer-port piece.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the detailed response and information. If I unscrew the shroud is there anything that may get undone that I’ll have trouble getting back together? Or does everything line up and play nice?

My barrel breech is pretty much flush when fully inserted so I don’t think I have room to spare there. I don’t know if I should even bother. I’m a big lot bummed the knob hits the shroud and it seems like there’s nothing I can do, as I feel like I am missing tuning capabilities. I don’t know what else to try.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu