FX Impact M3 velocity drops 100 fps after sitting over night then takes 20 shots before it returns back to 990fps. Reg pressure unchanged during process.

My M3 performed flawlessly for the first several months after I purchased it (except for a reg creep issue that was resolved after replacing the regulator). I was using it about 2 days per week during these firs several months. I had it tuned to 1/2” groups at 50 yards with the 2nd reg at 150bar and velocity at 990fps +/- 5fps.

And every time I took it out it was dialed in. But I did noticed that whenever I took it out after it had been sitting for a day or two that the first 3-4 shots were a bit slow, maybe 10-20 fps slower than where it had been the last session (990fps). The first 3 shots would be something like 970, 980, 990. I read that this is normal since it can take a few shots for the regs to “wakeup” and settle.

I took a break from shooting during the past 2 months. I did not make any changes to the gun doing this time. It just sat in its case.

The other day I took it out to shoot. I took out the half used container of Javelin slugs that I had been using the last time I had shot it - when everything was working perfectly. I checked to make sure that the reg pressure, valve and hammer were all set to where they were they had been when the gun was dialed in at 990fps. The first 5 shots were around 940. Over the course of 20 shots the velocity eventually climbed to 990. I thought maybe this was normal for a gun that had been sitting for 2 months.

I took 10 a minute break, then went back to shooting. The first shot was 960, then over the course of 10 shots it climbed back to 990. This is not how it behaved before. If I had taken a 10 minute break 2 months ago, there would be no change in velocity

The next day I took the gun out again and the first shot was 930fps. 15 more shots and it’s back up to 990.

Any ideas guys?


UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED

SOLUTION(S):

I did several things, all addressing the issue of friction on the valve rod. I made all of these changes at the same time because I didn’t want to disassemble the rifle, make a change, reassemble, let the gun sit overnight, test, then repeat the process for each change. As a result I’m not sure which change had the most significant effect on resolving the issue, but all of these changes could only help resolve this problem in the present and prevent it from happening again as quickly in the future.

For reference here’s a link to the FX Impact M3 schematic:
https://fxairguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/F10370-Impact-M3.pdf

I disassembled the gun down to the valve rod and on the 2 inch section that slides in and out of the Valvetube End (part 10338) there was a grippy grey residue. This was from the o-ring (part 19768, O-ring 2.84x2.62 PUR90) in the valvetube wearing away onto the valve rod, perhaps due to just normal use, not enough lube being applied at the factory, o-ring shrinking overtime - likely multiple reasons.

I did several things to reduce valve rod friction. I did more than necessary. Most people experiencing valve rod friction could likely fix it by cleaning and lightly lubing the valve rod with silicone oil.

What I did is excessive, but in the long term may require less frequent maintenance:
  • CLEANED the valve rod with rubbing alcohol
  • POLISHED the valve rod using a polishing compound and microfiber cloth to polish the valve rod until it had a shinny mirror-like finish. Took about 10 minutes. I used Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner, available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MUSOW4
  • LUBED the VALVE ROD with silicone oil.
  • UPGRADED THE VALVETUBE so that it has a PEEK SPACER/BUSHING inside the valvetube next to the o-ring (part 19768). The valvetube that comes stock on the M3 doesn’t have a threaded end that allows it to be removed so that the two o-rings inside the valvetube can be easily accessed. It was difficult to replace the 2 o-rings inside the valvetube. The stock valvetube also doesn’t have a high strength spacer/bushing to support the sealing function of o-ring 19768. The peek bushing also ensures that there isn’t any metal-on-metal contact between the valve rod and the valvetube. For these reasons I purchased a custom valvetube from AGN member mubhaur which has these features. He explains the rational for his design in the video below.
After these changes, when the gun sits overnight, not even first shot is slow. The fps is exactly what it was when I last shot. Velocity is also more consistent. Fps spread used to be +/- 6fps. Now it’s +/- 2.

As described in the original post, before these changes the first 20 shots would be slow: starting at 100 fps slow and gradually increasing with each shot. And if the gun sat for just 10 minutes the fps would drop by 30 fps.


 
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My M3 is 4 months old and I now have the exact same issue. It takes 5 shots to get up to the tuned fps. Yesterday morning the 1st shot was over 100fps slow, today a little over 60 fps. I started researching this yesterday and sounds like the o-ring issue on the valve stem. I might try this O-Ring:

https://krafordandlypt.com/products/2-84x2-62-nbr-90-oring
Thank you alimanya. Have you tried replacing this o-ring yet?
 
Kinda sucks when a 1500$+ gun can only be tuned within 97% of its plateau without being erratic from shot to shot or sitting idle for 15min-1hr let alone a week. Most hunters in their blind aren't shooting every 15 minutes to keep stiction subsided. Even a BR shooter better dry fire one off if its been over 15-30 minutes with a balanced valve.

Run out friction will plague any and all balanced valves, has always been my mantra. I toyed with them plenty over the years both in my head and in my hands. Sure it can be circumvented but it's severely limits any guns 'range of power' via hammer strike, and is still incredibly sensitive to weather as o-rings are much different at 0 degree than 100...as well as the viscosity of the lube you'll use on them. Running a "dry" poppet is just as ideal as running a dry hammer, for consistency...

Sorry I just like to rant about balanced valves and how much I despise their prevailing use in airguns due to their pitfalls.

-Matt
Exactly my situation as a hunter, not BR. Thanks for the rant. Helped me to conceptualize these valve, o-ring, and environment issues/factors.
 
Issue gone after I cranked up my 2nd reg from 100 to 120 bar to test out the Zan 56gr BR 100 pellets. After a couples days of testing there was zero velocity drop.
Excellent! That’s the best scenario for a fix. It would be interesting to see if you took it back down to 100bar if the problem returned.
I’m at 150bar. I’ll try taking it to 165-170bar and see if the issue improves.
Thanks for the update.
 
Awe shucks! Bummer. You may have already done these things, but if you haven't you could try:
- sanding down the ends of the valve spring so they're nice and smooth
- replacing the valve spring with a lighter one like the one that comes with the slug power kit
- adding the rubber ball to the valve spring

this post in the thread has more details about this:

I decided to buy this users plenum part to reduce valve rod friction. Hopefully it fixes the issue for me.
mubhaur
 
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Awe shucks! Bummer. You have have already done these things, but if you haven't you could try:
- sanding down the ends of the valve spring so they're nice and smooth
- replacing the valve spring with a lighter one like the one that comes with the slug power kit
- adding the rubber ball to the valve spring

this post in the thread has more details about this:

I decided to buy this users upgrade system. Hopefully it fixes the issue for me.
Thanks for passing along.
 
Awe shucks! Bummer. You have have already done these things, but if you haven't you could try:
- sanding down the ends of the valve spring so they're nice and smooth
- replacing the valve spring with a lighter one like the one that comes with the slug power kit
- adding the rubber ball to the valve spring

this post in the thread has more details about this:

I decided to buy this users upgrade system. Hopefully it fixes the issue for me.
I might reach out to him for the part. Looks very promising. Mine has been up to 100fps slow after sitting a day and takes 8 shots or so to get up to tuned speed. I ordered the Hammer Seat Removal Tool and some O-Rings. Going to replace the o-ring tomorrow.
 
Do not use the black rubber ball on the lighter valve spring kit on an M3! You will drop a lot of velocity. The black ball from the FX slug power kit was designed to keep from valve rod over travel on the MK1 and MK2 guns. Valve rod over travel is what leads to a leak coming from the mag slot because the tiny o ring at the mag slot end of the valve rod would get cut as it went out of its tunnel. If the valve rod gets bent that means the valve seat won’t be tight and now you have air leaking out the barrel!

The M3 has two rubber balls within the valve knob(@ front end of knob)to act as a snubber to the C1 hammer stop slamming against a piston also within the valve knob and only unique to the M3 acorn style valve knob. It is behind this piston where the nitrile balls reside.

So, on an M3 the piston head thickness plus a rubber ball stacked on top of it like as was suggested, will shorten the distance the valve rod travels big time. Trust me, don’t do it.

Besides, changing the factory spring to the lighter, Huma or fx slug power kit valve spring will not cure the problem you are having!
 
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Do not use the black rubber ball on the lighter valve spring kit on an M3! You will drop a lot of velocity. The black ball from the FX slug power kit was designed to keep from valve rod over travel on the MK1 and MK2 guns. Valve rod over travel is what leads to a leak coming from the mag slot because the tiny o ring at the mag slot end of the valve rod would get cut as it went out of its tunnel. If the valve rod gets bent that means the valve seat won’t be tight and now you have air leaking out the barrel!

The M3 has two rubber balls within the valve knob(@ front end of knob)to act as a snubber to the C1 hammer stop slamming against a piston also within the valve knob and only unique to the M3 acorn style valve knob. It is behind this piston where the nitrile balls reside.

So, on an M3 the piston head thickness plus a rubber ball stacked on top of it like as was suggested, will shorten the distance the valve rod travels big time. Trust me, don’t do it.

Besides, changing the factory spring to the lighter, Huma or fx slug power kit valve spring will not cure the problem you are having!
Good info....thanks for passing along!
 
I took it apart to change the O-Ring and was amazed at how much grime built up on the valve stem rod. The O-Ring looks like it had better days for sure. I ordered some 3M polishing cloth and will give everything a good cleaning and polish.




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I might reach out to him for the part. Looks very promising. Mine has been up to 100fps slow after sitting a day and takes 8 shots or so to get up to tuned speed. I ordered the Hammer Seat Removal Tool and some O-Rings. Going to replace the o-ring tomorrow.
Nice. That's what I was going to try if I didn't order that part. Make sure to lube that o-ring on the valve rod well to minimize o-ting stricture. Will be interested to hear if that works. Based on what most members are saying in this thread, that should help significantly
 
Nice. That's what I was going to try if I didn't order that part. Make sure to lube that o-ring on the valve rod well to minimize o-ting stricture. Will be interested to hear if that works. Based on what most members are saying in this thread, that should help significantly
It's working great!! Changed the O-Ring, cleaned and re-lubed everything and it has been shooting like new. Been doing random test shots since yesterday and no more issues. Just need to tweak the tune a little.

Shot count: 18
Low: 914
Hi: 923
Avg: 919
Spread: 9
STD Dev: 2.5
921
923
914
919
919
921
923
916
921
919
919
919
921
916
916
919
916
919
 
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