FX Impact M3 velocity drops 100 fps after sitting over night then takes 20 shots before it returns back to 990fps. Reg pressure unchanged during process.

My M3 performed flawlessly for the first several months after I purchased it (except for a reg creep issue that was resolved after replacing the regulator). I was using it about 2 days per week during these firs several months. I had it tuned to 1/2” groups at 50 yards with the 2nd reg at 150bar and velocity at 990fps +/- 5fps.

And every time I took it out it was dialed in. But I did noticed that whenever I took it out after it had been sitting for a day or two that the first 3-4 shots were a bit slow, maybe 10-20 fps slower than where it had been the last session (990fps). The first 3 shots would be something like 970, 980, 990. I read that this is normal since it can take a few shots for the regs to “wakeup” and settle.

I took a break from shooting during the past 2 months. I did not make any changes to the gun doing this time. It just sat in its case.

The other day I took it out to shoot. I took out the half used container of Javelin slugs that I had been using the last time I had shot it - when everything was working perfectly. I checked to make sure that the reg pressure, valve and hammer were all set to where they were they had been when the gun was dialed in at 990fps. The first 5 shots were around 940. Over the course of 20 shots the velocity eventually climbed to 990. I thought maybe this was normal for a gun that had been sitting for 2 months.

I took 10 a minute break, then went back to shooting. The first shot was 960, then over the course of 10 shots it climbed back to 990. This is not how it behaved before. If I had taken a 10 minute break 2 months ago, there would be no change in velocity

The next day I took the gun out again and the first shot was 930fps. 15 more shots and it’s back up to 990.

Any ideas guys?


UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED

SOLUTION(S):

I did several things, all addressing the issue of friction on the valve rod. I made all of these changes at the same time because I didn’t want to disassemble the rifle, make a change, reassemble, let the gun sit overnight, test, then repeat the process for each change. As a result I’m not sure which change had the most significant effect on resolving the issue, but all of these changes could only help resolve this problem in the present and prevent it from happening again as quickly in the future.

For reference here’s a link to the FX Impact M3 schematic:
https://fxairguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/F10370-Impact-M3.pdf

I disassembled the gun down to the valve rod and on the 2 inch section that slides in and out of the Valvetube End (part 10338) there was a grippy grey residue. This was from the o-ring (part 19768, O-ring 2.84x2.62 PUR90) in the valvetube wearing away onto the valve rod, perhaps due to just normal use, not enough lube being applied at the factory, o-ring shrinking overtime - likely multiple reasons.

I did several things to reduce valve rod friction. I did more than necessary. Most people experiencing valve rod friction could likely fix it by cleaning and lightly lubing the valve rod with silicone oil.

What I did is excessive, but in the long term may require less frequent maintenance:
  • CLEANED the valve rod with rubbing alcohol
  • POLISHED the valve rod using a polishing compound and microfiber cloth to polish the valve rod until it had a shinny mirror-like finish. Took about 10 minutes. I used Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner, available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MUSOW4
  • LUBED the VALVE ROD with silicone oil.
  • UPGRADED THE VALVETUBE so that it has a PEEK SPACER/BUSHING inside the valvetube next to the o-ring (part 19768). The valvetube that comes stock on the M3 doesn’t have a threaded end that allows it to be removed so that the two o-rings inside the valvetube can be easily accessed. It was difficult to replace the 2 o-rings inside the valvetube. The stock valvetube also doesn’t have a high strength spacer/bushing to support the sealing function of o-ring 19768. The peek bushing also ensures that there isn’t any metal-on-metal contact between the valve rod and the valvetube. For these reasons I purchased a custom valvetube from AGN member mubhaur which has these features. He explains the rational for his design in the video below.
After these changes, when the gun sits overnight, not even first shot is slow. The fps is exactly what it was when I last shot. Velocity is also more consistent. Fps spread used to be +/- 6fps. Now it’s +/- 2.

As described in the original post, before these changes the first 20 shots would be slow: starting at 100 fps slow and gradually increasing with each shot. And if the gun sat for just 10 minutes the fps would drop by 30 fps.


 
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Do not use the black rubber ball on the lighter valve spring kit on an M3! You will drop a lot of velocity. The black ball from the FX slug power kit was designed to keep from valve rod over travel on the MK1 and MK2 guns. Valve rod over travel is what leads to a leak coming from the mag slot because the tiny o ring at the mag slot end of the valve rod would get cut as it went out of its tunnel. If the valve rod gets bent that means the valve seat won’t be tight and now you have air leaking out the barrel!

The M3 has two rubber balls within the valve knob(@ front end of knob)to act as a snubber to the C1 hammer stop slamming against a piston also within the valve knob and only unique to the M3 acorn style valve knob. It is behind this piston where the nitrile balls reside.

So, on an M3 the piston head thickness plus a rubber ball stacked on top of it like as was suggested, will shorten the distance the valve rod travels big time. Trust me, don’t do it.

Besides, changing the factory spring to the lighter, Huma or fx slug power kit valve spring will not cure the problem you are having!
Very helpful info! Thanks Bigragu.
 
I took it apart to change the O-Ring and was amazed at how much grime built up on the valve stem rod. The O-Ring looks like it had better days for sure. I ordered some 3M polishing cloth and will give everything a good cleaning and polish.




View attachment 378522View attachment 378524View attachment 378525View attachment 378526
Did yours get progressively worse? Mine does it but right now I just set the power wheel where I get the max velocity for my reg setting and do three dry fires and then everything is fine. Hoping I have awhile before I have to take anything apart. Where did you get that tool in your pics for taking that part off the end of the valve rod ?
 
Did yours get progressively worse? Mine does it but right now I just set the power wheel where I get the max velocity for my reg setting and do three dry fires and then everything is fine. Hoping I have awhile before I have to take anything apart. Where did you get that tool in your pics for taking that part off the end of the valve rod ?
Yes, in my case it did get progressively worse over time.

You can get the tool here:

https://www.capefearairguns.com/col...roducts/fx-impact-hammer-seat-removal-tool-v2
 
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Interesting thread with perfect timing. My M3 in 22 cal with the 600 mm barrel stayed very consistent. The second reg was set at 133 bar.
I recently switched to a 25 cal 700 mm barrel and retuned for that. I was very happy with the tune and the second reg was set at 103.
After a short time it was very inconsistent with POI. So I checked the fps and it had dropped considerably. I didn't fire more than 5-10 shots before deciding to retune it and go a little higher in FPS, then lowering the speed a little with the valve.
After retuning it and ending up with 110 bar on the second reg the velocity drop as not returned.
 
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Interesting thread with perfect timing. My M3 in 22 cal with the 600 mm barrel stayed very consistent. The second reg was set at 133 bar.
I recently switched to a 25 cal 700 mm barrel and retuned for that. I was very happy with the tune and the second reg was set at 103.
After a short time it was very inconsistent with POI. So I checked the fps and it had dropped considerably. I didn't fire more than 5-10 shots before deciding to retune it and go a little higher in FPS, then lowering the speed a little with the valve.
After retuning it and ending up with 110 bar on the second reg the velocity drop as not returned.
Good info, thanks for passing along.
 
UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED

SOLUTION(S):

I did several things, all addressing the issue of o-ring friction on the valve rod. I made all of these changes at the same time because I didn’t want to disassemble the rifle, make a change, reassemble, let the gun sit overnight, test, then repeat the process for each change. As a result I’m not sure which change had the most significant effect on resolving the issue, but all of these changes could only help resolve this problem in the present and prevent it from happening again as quickly in the future.

For reference here’s a link to the FX Impact M3 schematic:
https://fxairguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/F10370-Impact-M3.pdf

I disassembled the gun down to the valve rod and on the 2 inch section that slides in and out of the Valvetube End (part 10338) there was a grippy grey residue. This was from the two o-rings in the valvetube (part 19763, O-ring 9x1.5 NBR90) wearing away onto the valve rod, perhaps due to just normal use, not enough lube being applied at the factory, o-ring shrinking overtime, likely multiple reasons.

I did several things to reduce valve rod friction. I definitely did way more than necessary. Most people experiencing valve rod friction could fix it by cleaning and lubing both the valve rod and the two o-rings in the valvetube. Reassemble. Done.

What I did is excessive, but in the long term I think will require less frequent maintenance:
  • CLEANED the valve rod with rubbing alcohol
  • POLISHED the valve rod. I used a polishing compound and microfiber cloth to polish the valve rod until it had a shinny mirror-like finish. Took about 10 minutes. I used Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner, which I also used to polish the inside of the barrel liner. Polish available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MUSOW4
  • LUBED the valve rod with silicone oil.
  • UPGRADED THE VALVETUBE: The valvetube that comes stock on the M3 doesn’t have a threaded end that allows the end to be removed so that the two o-rings can be easily replaced. The valvetube on the Impact M1 had this feature. On the M3 valvetube it was a real pain to replace those 2 o-rings. The stock valvetube also doesn’t have a high strength/hardness washer/bushing to ensure that there isn’t any metal-on-metal contact between the valve rod and the valvetube. For these reasons I purchased a custom valvetube from AGN member mubhaur. He explains the rational for his design in the video below.
After these changes, when the gun sits overnight, not even first shot is slow. The fps is exactly what it was when I last shot. Velocity is also more consistent. Fps spread used to be +/- 6fps. Now it’s +/- 2.

As described in the original post, before these changes the first 20 shots would be slow: starting at 100 fps slow and gradually increasing with each shot. And if the gun sat for just 10 minutes the fps would drop by 30 fps.


 
Last edited:
UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED

SOLUTION(S):

I did several things, all addressing the issue of o-ring friction on the valve rod. I made all of these changes at the same time because I didn’t want to disassemble the rifle, make a change, reassemble, let the gun sit overnight, test, then repeat the process for each change. As a result I’m not sure which change had the most significant effect on resolving the issue, but all of these changes could only help resolve this problem in the present and prevent it from happening again as quickly in the future.

For reference here’s a link to the FX Impact M3 schematic:
https://fxairguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/F10370-Impact-M3.pdf

I disassembled the gun down to the valve rod and on the 2 inch section that slides in and out of the Valvetube End (part 10338) there was a grippy grey residue. This was from the two o-rings in the valvetube (part 19763, O-ring 9x1.5 NBR90) wearing away onto the valve rod, perhaps due to just normal use, not enough lube being applied at the factory, o-ring shrinking overtime, likely multiple reasons.

I did several things to reduce valve rod friction. I definitely did way more than necessary. Most people experiencing valve rod friction could fix it by cleaning and lubing both the valve rod and the two o-rings in the valvetube. Reassemble. Done.

What I did is excessive, but in the long term I think will require less frequent maintenance:
  • CLEANED the valve rod with rubbing alcohol
  • POLISHED the valve rod. I used a polishing compound and microfiber cloth to polish the valve rod until it had a shinny mirror-like finish. Took about 10 minutes. I used Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner, which I also used to polish the inside of the barrel liner. Polish available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MUSOW4
  • LUBED the valve rod with silicone oil.
  • UPGRADED THE VALVETUBE: The valvetube that comes stock on the M3 doesn’t have a threaded end that allows the end to be removed so that the two o-rings can be easily replaced. The valvetube on the Impact M1 had this feature. On the M3 valvetube it was a real pain to replace those 2 o-rings. The stock valvetube also doesn’t have a high strength/hardness washer/bushing to ensure that there isn’t any metal-on-metal contact between the valve rod and the valvetube. For these reasons I purchased a custom valvetube from AGN member mubhaur. He explains the rational for his design in the video below.
After these changes, when the gun sits overnight, not even first shot is slow. The fps is exactly what it was when I last shot. Velocity is also more consistent. Fps spread used to be +/- 6fps. Now it’s +/- 2.

As described in the original post, before these changes the first 20 shots would be slow: starting at 100 fps slow and gradually increasing with each shot. And if the gun sat for just 10 minutes the fps would drop by 30 fps.


I am so glad that my provided part fixed your problem.

It's common issue in M3. Not every gun is like that but I have received such complaints from many users.

Regards,

Bhaur
 
I do not recommend any lube on the plenum oring as it may leak. What is more it can introduce inconsistency due to the fact it is impossible to keep the lube evenly distributed after each shot.

Which plenum o-ring/s are you referring to?

Screenshot 2023-08-28 at 9.10.58 AM.png
 
UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED

SOLUTION(S):

I did several things, all addressing the issue of o-ring friction on the valve rod. I made all of these changes at the same time because I didn’t want to disassemble the rifle, make a change, reassemble, let the gun sit overnight, test, then repeat the process for each change. As a result I’m not sure which change had the most significant effect on resolving the issue, but all of these changes could only help resolve this problem in the present and prevent it from happening again as quickly in the future.

For reference here’s a link to the FX Impact M3 schematic:
https://fxairguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/F10370-Impact-M3.pdf

I disassembled the gun down to the valve rod and on the 2 inch section that slides in and out of the Valvetube End (part 10338) there was a grippy grey residue. This was from the two o-rings in the valvetube (part 19763, O-ring 9x1.5 NBR90) wearing away onto the valve rod, perhaps due to just normal use, not enough lube being applied at the factory, o-ring shrinking overtime, likely multiple reasons.

I did several things to reduce valve rod friction. I definitely did way more than necessary. Most people experiencing valve rod friction could fix it by cleaning and lubing both the valve rod and the two o-rings in the valvetube. Reassemble. Done.

What I did is excessive, but in the long term I think will require less frequent maintenance:
  • CLEANED the valve rod with rubbing alcohol
  • POLISHED the valve rod. I used a polishing compound and microfiber cloth to polish the valve rod until it had a shinny mirror-like finish. Took about 10 minutes. I used Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner, which I also used to polish the inside of the barrel liner. Polish available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MUSOW4
  • LUBED the valve rod with silicone oil.
  • UPGRADED THE VALVETUBE: The valvetube that comes stock on the M3 doesn’t have a threaded end that allows the end to be removed so that the two o-rings can be easily replaced. The valvetube on the Impact M1 had this feature. On the M3 valvetube it was a real pain to replace those 2 o-rings. The stock valvetube also doesn’t have a high strength/hardness washer/bushing to ensure that there isn’t any metal-on-metal contact between the valve rod and the valvetube. For these reasons I purchased a custom valvetube from AGN member mubhaur. He explains the rational for his design in the video below.
After these changes, when the gun sits overnight, not even first shot is slow. The fps is exactly what it was when I last shot. Velocity is also more consistent. Fps spread used to be +/- 6fps. Now it’s +/- 2.

As described in the original post, before these changes the first 20 shots would be slow: starting at 100 fps slow and gradually increasing with each shot. And if the gun sat for just 10 minutes the fps would drop by 30 fps.


My new Panthera is doing the exact same thing and I don't even know where to start with this.