FX Is a single reg maverick a possibility?
- Thread starter madeintheuk
- Start date
As I see it, there should be no reason the remove the first reg, if you do not intend to use the gun with very high reg pressures (beyond factory intended use), where the first reg pressure would be a limiting factor. Like if you end up with a situation that there is almost no pressure difference between the two regs.
If you like to fidle around with different pressures on the seccond reg, I would just set the first reg high, and leave it there, as someone else mentioned.
Regarding the first shot speed, it has probably nothing to do with the first reg.
One simple test to see if the gun is any better with one reg, is to set the first reg high, and shoot the gun with tank pressure lower than the first reg. If anything noticable change, it would suprise me.
If you like to fidle around with different pressures on the seccond reg, I would just set the first reg high, and leave it there, as someone else mentioned.
Regarding the first shot speed, it has probably nothing to do with the first reg.
One simple test to see if the gun is any better with one reg, is to set the first reg high, and shoot the gun with tank pressure lower than the first reg. If anything noticable change, it would suprise me.
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Look, I know y’all are all FX fans, and I get the appeal, but I’m a “simpler is better” kinda guy. I like quick follow ups, and less things to go wrong. I like the maverick platform, but I hate the idea of extra things to go bad. These regs are already known for creep, and user caused reliability issues. By deleting the reg, not only do I remove something that can go bad from the equation, but also get a faster plenum refill, and easier tuning capability. The recommendation to keep the first reg wide open is great, but it still relies on a reg remaining sealed. More orings to leak etc. Ernest had a maverick with a single reg conversion, and I tried to find how he did it. It may be a simple endeavor, it might not, hence the post here. I’m gathering from responses though, that it’s not a simple thing.
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Well the intention of two regs is to lessen the wear on the seccond reg. Espesially if the seccond reg is set low, and you fill the gun up to 250 bar. In addition it allows to use 300 bar bottles. I not sure you will get a more reliable gun by deleting the first, as teoretically one reg will wear out sooner, as it has to deal with higher pressure. But it is offcorse your choise.
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In checking the FX schematics for the 1st regulator on the Impact M3 and the Maverick, I'm seeing the same part numbers for all parts with the word "regulator" as part of the description...
Impact M3
19695 Regulator Screw Impact
19697-1 Regulator house
19696 Regulator piston (long) (May 2017>)
Maverick
19695 Regulator Screw
19697-1 Regulator house
19696 Regulator rod
It would seem that based on the parts above, the Saber Tactical 1st Regulator Bypass would also work on the Maverick...
FX Impact M3 First Regulator Bypass ST0039
I'm going to call Utah Airguns this coming week to see what they have to say about it. You might want to do the same
Impact M3
19695 Regulator Screw Impact
19697-1 Regulator house
19696 Regulator piston (long) (May 2017>)
Maverick
19695 Regulator Screw
19697-1 Regulator house
19696 Regulator rod
It would seem that based on the parts above, the Saber Tactical 1st Regulator Bypass would also work on the Maverick...
FX Impact M3 First Regulator Bypass ST0039
I'm going to call Utah Airguns this coming week to see what they have to say about it. You might want to do the same
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If that was the case, you’d see a lot more manufacturers going this route. In fact, FX themselves stopped going this route, so I’m calling BS on that claim.
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Not accurate information. The first reg on an M3 is housed in the bottle adapter. The “delete” kit for an M3 is a replacement bottle adapter without reg.In checking the FX schematics for the 1st regulator on the Impact M3 and the Maverick, I'm seeing the same part numbers for all parts with the word "regulator" as part of the description...
Impact M3
19695 Regulator Screw Impact
19697-1 Regulator house
19696 Regulator piston (long) (May 2017>)
Maverick
19695 Regulator Screw
19697-1 Regulator house
19696 Regulator rod
It would seem that based on the parts above, the Saber Tactical 1st Regulator Bypass would also work on the Maverick...
FX Impact M3 First Regulator Bypass ST0039
I'm going to call Utah Airguns this coming week to see what they have to say about it. You might want to do the same
The mav has the regulator in the front reg housing similar to a dreamline. This will not work with the M3 part.
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Tor47 is correct in terms of it reducing wear and tear on the second regulator. Whether or not reliability is improved depends on a lot of factors so that aspect could go either way.
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Thanks for that information. That is why I was going to call Utah Airguns. I'll cross post your reply to the other thread I started on this topic.
Hopefully, Saber Tactical will come out with a similar product for the Maverick. More options are always better
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If you want to have a minimalist (fewest orings) DIY approach which doesn’t involve machining a whole replacement piece, I would think that you would have to do as follows:
1. replace the reg adjustment pin with an airtight screw, perhaps epoxied or soldered in place. Install the sealed reg housing (with no piston/washers)
2. Tap the vent/breather hole and similarly seal.
That would leave only the housing oring as I understand it. If I’m wrong, I’ll appreciate being schooled!
1. replace the reg adjustment pin with an airtight screw, perhaps epoxied or soldered in place. Install the sealed reg housing (with no piston/washers)
2. Tap the vent/breather hole and similarly seal.
That would leave only the housing oring as I understand it. If I’m wrong, I’ll appreciate being schooled!
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I ditched the 2nd reg the same way you did -- just replaced the tube section that has the 2nd reg with a stock plenum section. That was about a year and a half ago. I still smile every time I look at where the 2nd reg USED to be
stovepipe
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So much easier to tune and way more efficient and I was able to get to 100fpe finally without having a 800mm barrel can’t wait to get a 800mm barrel and see what it can doI ditched the 2nd reg the same way you did -- just replaced the tube section that has the 2nd reg with a stock plenum section. That was about a year and a half ago. I still smile every time I look at where the 2nd reg USED to be
stovepipe
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Hi herryer223. I noticed in the picture of your maverick that you are still using grub screws in the "hand" that holds it to the cocking rod. ALL maverick owners should replace the grub screws with cap-head machine screws. Cap-head screws will use the full length of the threads in the "hand" and will allow you to tighten them with a 3mm allen key so you can get them as tight as possible. Maybe where you live it's easier to find torx head rather than hex head cap screws. Either way, the grub screws don't hold nearly well enough to keep the "hand" from slipping on the cocking rod. The result is often times a bent cocking rod and a bent or broken rod guide. I was warned, but I didn't do it right away. I paid the price when the cocking rod and rod guide bent all to hell -- it sucked. I had the grub screws in as tight as I could get them and, yes -- I did have loctite on them. Ditch the grub screws. Cheers.
stovepipe
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Thank you for the heads up I have had so many problems with that dang cocking rod to the point I machined a titanium rod to replace it I’m going to replace them that makes sense to use all the threads.
that was one of my problems with the mav trying to pull heavy springs to achieve over 100fpe I’m trying to design a better foot that will use the barrel to brace the rod thank you again
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