I'll have to look at the parts and see if I think it will work out and the cost.
As CrosmanEngineer mentioned, removing the Bulldog bolt is a PITA. Not just pressing the sear pin(s) out, but dealing with the cocking pin and its tensioning spring is not something you would want to do with any frequency.
IMO, the 2 key components make a caliber swapping Bulldog practical.
1) Complete "upper" for each caliber---a complete barrel and shroud system. IMO, for accuracy I replaced the plastic barrel bushings with 2-3 solid aluminum bushings. One can make their own, or buy multiples of the rear barrel bushing, which will require a thin sleeve of .050 IIRC due to the tapered OEM barrel. I solidly attach these to the shroud. My theory is this ensures the pic rail and barrel become locked as one assembly.
2) Some type of interchangeable probe system. I copied the design Jim Gaska used on the WAR guns and provided it to GTA member luge007 (Matt) He made a couple for me using the OEM bolt, IIRC he has a design for an SS bolt. IIRC he made a few of these and may have some sitting in stock so to speak... One could always make the probes from SS if desired.
Using these 2 components and drilling 2 holes in the breech clamshells allowing access to barrel retention setscrews allows for literally 5 minute caliber swaps. If one has a scope for each upper, my experience has shown zero to be right where you left it, assuming you can consistently retune for each caliber. An item that helps with tuning, assuming you are unregulated and strangling the transfer to flatten the string, is a caliber specific transfer port bushing, much like the plastic one crosman provided in earlier guns (I have no idea if that is still part of the platform.) You can size a bushing to match each caliber's tune, and adjust HST if needed. If regulated transfer port size really doesn't matter as much.