Diana Is my Diana 34 worthy of a scope?

[Wildcatter]

I'm sorry if my inquiry put you off. It wasn't intended as a debate. There is no need to be defensive.

You have made it clear that you value experience and hands on knowledge several times. I agree and acknowledge that! Your opinions are valued and appreciated!

Your forend is unique. Some guys cut them off. I was just interested in how yours got that way. I didn't realize that some came from the factory that way.

I also inquired about the eye relief on your scopes. No issues. I just wondered. It wasn't meant as a criticism. It was something I saw in your photos and I thought I would ask you about it.

Im sorry if my posts landed wrong.

The only thing I was responding to was your comment that "Check out @Wildcatter 's forend. Definitely cut back." It is as I stated, the Definitely cut back, many take as fact? No feathers ruffled here, I just am trying to make sure others realize the many difference's over the years, I prefer the model I have, not just for the stock but as well for the T05 trigger over the T06. I definitely feel the older barrels are a premium on these rifles. But that could just be the luck of the draw, I wont claim they Definitely are.

Like I say, I just want to make certain others understand it is as I stated. Hope you didn't take it any other way, it wasn't meant that way.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

To be clear mine is a D34 classic carbine. T06 trigger.

There are obvious differences in the RWS/Diana rifle over the years and I am vaguely familiar with their evolution. I just didn't realize they had so many forend designs. All I knew was that a lot of guys shortened them. I assumed that's what I was looking at and I was wrong. Silly wrong.

I like mine. I wanted a Diana breakbarrel since I was 10. Finally got one at 60. It's been a great learning experience.

It shoots sweet and is my favorite rifle to shoot offhand. It's got great balance. I even like the fiber optic sights on it. I try not to shoot it too much and put the load on my Hatsan rifles. But I'd much rather shoot the D34.

 

[Wildcatter]

To be clear mine is a D34 classic carbine. T06 trigger.

There are obvious differences in the RWS/Diana rifle over the years and I am vaguely familiar with their evolution. I just didn't realize they had so many forend designs. All I knew was that a lot of guys shortened them. I assumed that's what I was looking at and I was wrong. Silly wrong.

I like mine. I wanted a Diana breakbarrel since I was 10. Finally got one at 60. It's been a great learning experience.

It shoots sweet and is my favorite rifle to shoot offhand. It's got great balance. I even like the fiber optic sights on it. I try not to shoot it too much and put the load on my Hatsan rifles. But I'd much rather shoot the D34.

Throw a Vortek PG4 spring in it and enjoy, I doubt you would ever notice anything but shooting till broken in, then I doubt you could shoot enough to need anything but clean and lube every 5 or 10 thousand shots?at around 750 shots mine became boring.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

Throw a Vortek PG4 spring in it and enjoy, I doubt you would ever notice anything but shooting till broken in, then I doubt you could shoot enough to need anything but clean and lube every 5 or 10 thousand shots?at around 750 shots mine became boring.

It's got a vortek spring kit in it.

I shoot well over 100K shots per year. I have been for about 6 years now. So I have a pretty good idea of how to handle things!

Your fatherly advice is always appreciated!

Thanks!

 

[Wildcatter]

It's got a vortek spring kit in it.

I shoot well over 100K shots per year. I have been for about 6 years now. So I have a pretty good idea of how to handle things!

Your fatherly advice is always appreciated!

Thanks!

Glad to help, it's free.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

Glad to help, it's free.

...and worth every penny!

 

[Diehard50248]

My Hawke 3-9x40 AO scope arrived today! I also ordered a Dovetail-to-Picatinny mount and Hawke double-screw rings. There have been a few comments concerning the RWS droop mounts. I’m not necessarily trying to start restart a big debate, but should I move forward with what I’ve got, or return the mount and rings for the RWS Droop Mount?

Does Pyramyd Air have a no questions asked return policy?

 

[Bedrock Bob]

Do it bro. See if it works! You have everything you need for a solid setup.

The RWS one piece drooper may not work with that scope. Then again it may. The picatinny will work with any scope. So it's a good place to start.

If you need to return it....

Go to that purchase on the PA site and click "return". It prints a shipping label. Easy as that.

Call them and request one be sent email. They do that too.

90 days. Satisfaction guaranteed. No questions asked.

Excellent returns and service!

 

[Wildcatter]

My Hawke 3-9x40 AO scope arrived today! I also ordered a Dovetail-to-Picatinny mount and Hawke double-screw rings. There have been a few comments concerning the RWS droop mounts. I’m not necessarily trying to start restart a big debate, but should I move forward with what I’ve got, or return the mount and rings for the RWS Droop Mount?

Does Pyramyd Air have a no questions asked return policy?

View attachment 491635

I think you can return it if you don't open it. Once used its yours. As stated, the scope you have may or may not work with the one piece Droop compensating mount, but they do make an adapter that fits the dovetail and uses weaver rings like you have there, but it is compensating for the droop, the UTG you have does not. If you have to crank up more than one full turn from centered as it comes,,, I would buy the compensating mount. I keep several sets of rings, and mounts including dovetail to weaver adapters around so I can use whatever I need with new rifles.

I used a one piece compensating ring on the 34D, but I could not mount the 4-12x40 Hawke AirMax because the rings were to far apart, so luckily I have the Tasco Varmint scope that has been around here for decades and it has a long enough center tube to work with that one piece mount. I also used the adapter base that is droop compensating on my 54 AKP and used Burris Signature rings to go with it using their shims to add to the droop compensating for more elevation adjustment from zero @ 25 yards. I did this because it gives me more elevation to use it past 100 yards dialing the 4-16x50mAirMax scope, and dial my shots for zero.

I use what keeps my main zero closest to the center of my adjustment range. I have yet to run into the issues of my scope not holding up to my springers. The Tasco on my 34D is over 20 years old, and been on no less than 4 different springers, and is still going holding perfect zero and adjust as it should. Maybe not necessary, but it works for me. if those fixed rings don't work, you can buy the Burris Signature rings and use the compensating rings for anything you choose to later. They come with +10 MOA @ a 4" spacing. Set them closer and that becomes more MOA compensation. You can also buy shim sets for more than 10 MOA.

Scopes are very versatile, when you consider all the mounting options. I sent you a PM.

But

 

[Diehard50248]

UPDATE: The Hawke Vantage scope is mounted and zeroed in at 30 yards. I shimmed the rear ring with two layers of soda can and dialed the elevation 1-2/3 turns up. Hopefully that’s not too much. The windage is set a 1/3 turn to the left. Not sure if I’m using the proper terms, so hopefully you get the point. In any case, the gun is shooting great. Better than I can for sure. I tried my assortment of new pellets and landed on the Crosman Premier 10.5 gr.

Thank you all for the advice and encouragement. I’m excited to see what I can do with this sweet new scope and ammo! I have a few more questions, but I’ll read through previous posts first and start a new chat if needed.

Jeff

 

[BABz58]

That’s Awesome! Beautiful rifle.

 

[Diehard50248]

Status Update: Something is going on with my D34. A few weeks back I mounted a Hawke Vantage 3-9x40 AO Mil-Dot scope with a RWS 1-Piece Droop Mount. I zeroed in the setup and shot a few dime-sized groupings at 30 yards. I was dropping squirrels with headshots…life was good. Two days ago I started missing…badly. I noticed the scope mount had shifted backwards about 1/8”. I removed the scope, reset the mount’s two pin stops and remounted the scope. The issue is I can’t seem to get the scope to zero back in. I’m now getting 1-1/2 CTC groups when I was getting 1/2 groups before. I cleaned the barrel and checked all the scope mounting screws, but my groupings are still all over the place. Any ideas what might be going on?

 

[jccams]

Scope could have went South. Hawke says that scope is good to 12 fpe, I'm guessing you are in the 15 fpe range.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

When that mount starts slapping around it puts a lot of stress on the scope.

You got both pins in? Mine only has one hole.... That rail had to slip or the pin wasn't seated correctly. Make sure it isn't the aluminum claws on the rail wobbling around. If the rear pin is down in that recoil lug hole it shouldn't move back.

Anyhow, yeah probably the scope. Welcome to Springerfield.

Hawke has a great return policy.

 

[Diehard50248]

I was thinking about removing the scope to shoot a few grouping with just the iron sights. That should tell me if it’s the gun or the scope. Thoughts on that logic?

 

[BABz58]

I was thinking about removing the scope to shoot a few grouping with just the iron sights. That should tell me if it’s the gun or the scope. Thoughts on that logic?

I agree it’s the scope that died and I think shooting a group with open sights should confirm that in my mind.
But I’m sure others here will add their knowledge. And I’m still learning

 

[Duckfish]

This summer I started “pest control” with a Diana Model 34 (circa 1998) air rifle passed down to me by my father-in-law. I’ve been impressed with the power and accuracy compared to the Daisy BB guns I grew up with.

I was having such success using just the iron sites that I figured I could get even more accuracy by adding a scope. I bought a Vortex Optics Crossfire II (4-12x40 AO). As soon as I installed the scope I started missing. I zeroed in the scope (several times) but it never stayed put. After several weeks of frustration, I removed the scope and started killing the varmints like before.

So here’s my question…Should my Diana 34 be worthy of a scope? Is it possible that a break barrel wears out to the point that the barrel doesn’t snap back into the same position each time? In my mind this would explain why I seem to be more accurate with iron sites. I’m not as young as I used to be, and a scope would help.

View attachment 489854

View attachment 489855

Truly, the gun is good, your skills at mounting a scope maybe suspect, or your skill at adjusting a scope may need improvement.
Others may disagree.

 

[Diehard50248]

Truly, the gun is good, your skills at mounting a scope maybe suspect, or your skill at adjusting a scope may need improvement.
Others may disagree.

I’m open to any suggestions you may have. I’m new to airguns but eager to learn.

The D34 has been very accurate for me. I’ve taken out a good number of rabbits and squirrels, many with just the iron sights. I know this thread has gotten long but I think I’ve documented most of my findings over the past month or so. (Please ignore all the “bend the barrel” talk…it wasn’t necessary). I wanted a scope to help dial in my shots. When the scope and the gun were dialed it, I was taking successful headshots on the regular. Now I can’t seem to hit anything. I missed 5 squirrels over the last two days which is why I’m questioning the scope.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

You had some windage and elevation issues. A barrel off to the side. Some droop.

The scope could be way off optical center. If you dial it back to the middle and try a few shots it might pattern.

Use a mirror against the objective. Crank it until the two images line up. Your POI will be way off but if you can shoot a pattern your scope isn't the problem. The extreme adjustment took spring tension off the erector and it's bouncing around a little. Adjusted closer to center the scope may hold zero.

That leaves you bending a barrel or getting adjustable mounts.

Try the irons. Thats the easiest test of a scope/mount problem. We know that back sight is way over to the side. If it patterns with irons and zeros with the sight way over to the side you can assume the scope is pretty far out of center too.

If you are sure the scope is moving send it back. But make sure it isn't a mounting and/or alignment problem first. We know there is a potential alignment problem. We also know the mount slipped and it shouldn't have. It won't come loose if it's installed correctly.

I only have one hole in the dovetail rail for a recoil pin. The rear recoil screw in the mount fits down in it. The front one does nothing. If those set screws are too far down your dovetail won't clamp in the grooves right. Take the front recoil screw out and put the rear one down just enough to locate the hole. Then secure the dovetail clamps. THEN screw the rear lug to the bottom of the hole. Make sure those recoil lug screws aren't bottoming out and interfering with the fit of the dovetail rail.

Go back to square one and check everything and make sure it's right. Center your scope with a mirror and try it again. If it does not pattern return the scope. If it does you need to address an alignment issue.

 

[BABz58]

You had some windage and elevation issues. A barrel off to the side. Some droop.

The scope could be way off optical center. If you dial it back to the middle and try a few shots it might pattern.

Use a mirror against the objective. Crank it until the two images line up. Your POI will be way off but if you can shoot a pattern your scope isn't the problem. The extreme adjustment took spring tension off the erector and it's bouncing around a little. Adjusted closer to center the scope may hold zero.

That leaves you bending a barrel or getting adjustable mounts.

Try the irons. Thats the easiest test of a scope/mount problem. We know that back sight is way over to the side. If it patterns with irons and zeros with the sight way over to the side you can assume the scope is pretty far out of center too.

If you are sure the scope is moving send it back. But make sure it isn't a mounting or alignment problem first. We know there is a potential alignment problem. We also know the mount slipped and it shouldn't have. Go back to square one and check everything and make sure it's right. Center your scope with a mirror and try it again.

Excellent advice right here^^^