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Other Is No Reg Superior for Semi-Auto Follow-up Shots?

Hey all. New to airguns, new to the forum. Been doing a lot of research before making my first purchase and would appreciate hearing from people who own or have shot both regulated and unregulated semi-auto PCPs. There is probably something I'm missing, but I keep coming to the conclusion that an unregulated semi-auto be preferable to one with a regulator for quick follow-up shots. Would the accuracy loss due to the lack of regulator be less than the accuracy loss from not allowing the regulator to fully fill up? Buying with the intention of snake control which can be difficult when they are moving (copperheads and rattlesnakes in my area) but will likely end up spending more time plinking overall. Thanks.
 
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There is no clear answer - it depends on the size of the plenum and the power of each shot. My Huben K1 22 will absolutely stack pellets at 20-30fpe as fast as I can fire them, so the reg obviously refreshes faster than I can fire. In that case, a regulated approach wins. On the other hand my Huben K1 25 shoots slugs at 100fpe and I have to wait 2-3 seconds to get another accurate shot. In that case, an unregulated gun might be favorable. However, for me, the rapid fire capability is rarely used and I’d rather not be hamstrung by the negatives of shooting unregulated at all other times.
 
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Hey all. New to airguns, new to the forum. Been doing a lot of research before making my first purchase and would appreciate hearing from people who own or have shot both regulated and unregulated semi-auto PCPs. There is probably something I'm missing, but I keep coming to the conclusion that an unregulated semi-auto be preferable to one with a regulator for quick follow-up shots. Would the accuracy loss due to the lack of regulator be less than the accuracy loss from not allowing the regulator to fully fill up? Buying with the intention of snake control which can be difficult when they are moving (copperheads and rattlesnakes in my area) but will likely end up spending more time plinking overall. Thanks.
well if the regulator is built right it shouldn't be a issue unless you are using full auto, or CO2..
just my opinion..
Mark
 
Huma regulators generally have a restrictor grub screw installed. Did you happen to try removing it?

Optimizing for a fast refresh rate requires compromises to setpoint stability, input regulation, and service intervals. Meaning most any regulator that might be regarded as a precision regulator will be unlikely to provide a high refresh rate.
 
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Huma regulators generally have a restrictor grub screw installed. Did you happen to try removing it?

Generally speaking, optimizing for a fast refresh rate requires compromises to setpoint stability, input regulation, and service intervals. Meaning most any regulator that might be regarded as a precision regulator will be unlikely to provide a high refresh rate.
That was not the problem. I ordered it with the largest plenum but that is still not enough. The valvestem of a semi auto Hatsan does not have an oring on it. Because air must flow past the valvestem to push the hamer back at the same time that the probe is mechanical pushed backwards .

You can see in the data that the semi auto version also have a lower shotcount because it consumes more air.
 
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I own a Hatsan Invader auto. I modified it intensely because there are a lot issues with it when it is new out of the box.
Now it is fine enough for my purposes. With M4 open sights i shoot 4cm groups at 50 meters.

I treed to install a Huma Regulator. It will not work. No power anymore and no semi auto function..
Hatsans seem to use a self regulating valve design. With something like 8 or 10 valve outlets, I believe they compete with each other creating turbulence and restriction. This works well to get a pretty flat power curve wile also being relatively high powered. This is of course just speculation because I'm not 100 percent sure that is actually what is happening. Probably the only thing about hatsans that I like (I have a nova star. Sortie I used to have had the same valve design and was semi auto)

Any alteration in power or back pressure on a semi auto hatsan is generally not a good idea. Too much power will beat the gun up. Hammer and trigger mech will take excessive wear. Too much back pressure (moderator) can and likely will damage the piston link and or the piston and action stripping the link threads. As well as likely causing it to not cycle.
 
FYI, very soon into any burst fire scenario, plenum size becomes irrelevant and the regulator’s refresh rate / flow rate is all that matters.

Larger plenum volumes are definitely less susceptible to a fast enough semi auto that could out pace any vent size you can give a regulator (available on the market currently), to the point the reg would just remain open and act as the gun were unregulated (in terms of plenum volume)...certainly the larger in caliber you go (using commonly .5-1 cc per 10 fpe depending on pressure/barrel length ect)

-Matt
 
There is no clear answer - it depends on the size of the plenum and the power of each shot. My Huben K1 22 will absolutely stack pellets at 20-30fpe as fast as I can fire them, so the reg obviously refreshes faster than I can fire. In that case, a regulated approach wins. On the other hand my Huben K1 25 shoots slugs at 100fpe and I have to wait 2-3 seconds to get another accurate shot. In that case, an unregulated gun might be favorable. However, for me, the rapid fire capability is rarely used and I’d rather not be hamstrung by the negatives of shooting unregulated at all other times.
Really appreciate both perspectives. Seems to have a lot more factors than I was considering. Those Huben K1s are awesome PCPs, very interesting to hear the difference in caliber with follow-up shots.
 
Hatsans seem to use a self regulating valve design. With something like 8 or 10 valve outlets, I believe they compete with each other creating turbulence and restriction. This works well to get a pretty flat power curve wile also being relatively high powered. This is of course just speculation because I'm not 100 percent sure that is actually what is happening. Probably the only thing about hatsans that I like (I have a nova star. Sortie I used to have had the same valve design and was semi auto)

Any alteration in power or back pressure on a semi auto hatsan is generally not a good idea. Too much power will beat the gun up. Hammer and trigger mech will take excessive wear. Too much back pressure (moderator) can and likely will damage the piston link and or the piston and action stripping the link threads. As well as likely causing it to not cycle.
how about lowering the hammer spring adjustment? just wondering because my hatsan blitz 22 seems like more than my Henry golden boy 22.. I didn't adjust anything, but since you brought up adjustment, I was wondering if it would last longer and still cycle reliability.. it shoots crossman premier well and jsb 18 but I tried the heavy jsb redesigned and it turns into a bolt action 🤔🤔 any ideas?
Mark
 
Hey all. New to airguns, new to the forum. Been doing a lot of research before making my first purchase and would appreciate hearing from people who own or have shot both regulated and unregulated semi-auto PCPs. There is probably something I'm missing, but I keep coming to the conclusion that an unregulated semi-auto be preferable to one with a regulator for quick follow-up shots. Would the accuracy loss due to the lack of regulator be less than the accuracy loss from not allowing the regulator to fully fill up? Buying with the intention of snake control which can be difficult when they are moving (copperheads and rattlesnakes in my area) but will likely end up spending more time plinking overall. Thanks.
was thinking about you wanting for snake control.. I got a Gamo varmint shotgun 22 smooth bore.. it's a break barrel, it uses plastic shot shells and a brass adapter for pellets.. definitely not a target rifle being a smooth bore.. but I got it just for rattlesnake around the house.. just in case.. well I don't think if you are shooting 10 yards or less that you will need a follow up shot.. some say it's a toy and others say squirrel or rabbit out to 25 yards.. my comfort zone is 5-10 yards.. it's going to be dead.. however I also save the empty shot shells and reload with BB's.. I use the potato starch packing peanuts and brake off a piece and I cut a 16 penny nail flat on the end and i used it as a rod to pack the piece of peanut.. then 3-5 BB's and another piece of peanut and pack it down.. those hit hard and will go through a food can..
but don't get me wrong.. I wouldn't use it for target shooting with pellets unless you are just shooting spinners at 50 yards or less.. it's a inexpensive snake gun to me but occasionally I do shoot spinners and it's really easy to hit a 3" spinner at 30 yards.. so pretty good for a smooth bore.
Mark
 
how about lowering the hammer spring adjustment? just wondering because my hatsan blitz 22 seems like more than my Henry golden boy 22.. I didn't adjust anything, but since you brought up adjustment, I was wondering if it would last longer and still cycle reliability.. it shoots crossman premier well and jsb 18 but I tried the heavy jsb redesigned and it turns into a bolt action 🤔🤔 any ideas?
Mark
Can try it and see. That's about it.
 
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.... There is probably something I'm missing, but I keep coming to the conclusion that an unregulated semi-auto be preferable to one with a regulator for quick follow-up shots....

Not at all. My regulated AEA HP .22 Semi-Auto can mag dump all 10 pellets to the same spot with no issues.

BTW- it does the same with the regulator off but there is a curve to the air going sans-regulator.