Is there a term for this "click consistent" sweet spot between the near & far zeroes?

Most of my targets are in the 28-40 yard range.
Hawke Chairgun shows that a JSB 15.9 Diabolo with Near Zero set at 32 yards gives a relatively flat trajectory (within about a quarter inch) for the 22-40 yard range. (Right image)
I believe this is called an "Optimum Zero Range" (Hawke Chairgun) or "Maximum Point Blank Range" (MBPR in Strelok Pro). Basically, it is when the trajectory "flattens out" for a nice yardage range.
Here's my question...
... I discovered that if the Near Zero is 15 yards, then from about 24-40 yards it is roughly the same click count even though the trajectory's not flat like with a 32 yard zero. (Left image). The chart shows that even though the projectile trajectory is not flat in this range, the clicks are consistent & permit the shooter to have a nice yardage range without dialing the turret. Is there a term for this?

I'm currently zeroed at 15 yards due to space constraints and this has been working pretty well for me in that 24-40 yard range. Although I plan to take the more conventional approach and zero somewhere between 25-35 yards when space permits, for now I just click 15/16 & enjoy the voodoo magic!

This nugget is probably old news to some, but it was a handy discovery for me that I thought I'd share & ask if anyone knew of a term for this.

zeroes.png


Here are a couple of reference vids I found helpful in my quest to figure out near & far zeroes.
https://youtu.be/AMNYw6wT9mk?t=318
https://youtu.be/1qXzsWz8cYw?t=139
 
Looks like in your 32 yard example, 32 is your second (far) zero, not the first zero. Looks like 29 is the first zero. So in that example your scope angle is just skimming the top of the trajectory, at least pretty close to it. That's typically close to what I set up for when sighting in for airgun use out to 60yds max or so. Actually just a little below that. That way I get a wide sweet spot of not having to compensate at all, usually between the 20-35 yd marks depending on the gun/ammo, and everything else is hold over rather than needing to incorporate any hold under. I just think it is easier, for me at least.

FWIW, and I know this sounds nit-picky but that's really not my intention. You mention a couple of times the "trajectory being flat" (or not flat) due to how the scope is zeroed. The reality is that the trajectory is constant (assuming the gun is level) regardless of the scope settings (same ammo, tune, etc.). The scope zeros are just deciding on where the LOS of the scope intersects the arc of the falling projectile (again, when level). You're probably aware, but many people seem to misunderstand the relationship of the scope LOS and the trajectory of the projectile.
 
  • Like
Reactions: elbeau
Looks like in your 32 yard example, 32 is your second (far) zero, not the first zero. Looks like 29 is the first zero. So in that example your scope angle is just skimming the top of the trajectory, at least pretty close to it. That's typically close to what I set up for when sighting in for airgun use out to 60yds max or so. Actually just a little below that. That way I get a wide sweet spot of not having to compensate at all, usually between the 20-35 yd marks depending on the gun/ammo, and everything else is hold over rather than needing to incorporate any hold under. I just think it is easier, for me at least.

FWIW, and I know this sounds nit-picky but that's really not my intention. You mention a couple of times the "trajectory being flat" (or not flat) due to how the scope is zeroed. The reality is that the trajectory is constant (assuming the gun is level) regardless of the scope settings (same ammo, tune, etc.). The scope zeros are just deciding on where the LOS of the scope intersects the arc of the falling projectile (again, when level). You're probably aware, but many people seem to misunderstand the relationship of the scope LOS and the trajectory of the projectile.
The Chairgun graph does seem to agree with you. As for being nitpicky, I'm here to learn. I guess I was just reciting what I've heard others say as a "dumbed down" explanation. I appreciate the input.

My question really relates to the 15 yard Zero; I rephrased it in my next post.

1704688670094.jpeg
 
Last edited:
View attachment 423324

This image shows APEX zero. You will have to HOLD OVER for shots before the zero and for shots after the zero. This is ideal, IMHO for hunting.
Thank you - that makes sense.
My question regards the 15 yard Near Zero (pictured below) and the 24-40 yard range where 16 clicks pretty much covers the whole range. Is there a term for that?

1704742991721.png


1704743009448.png
 
POINT BLANK ZERO - cross hair on squirrel = dead squirrel. I generally consider one pellet width high and one low from Point of Aim to be within my Point Blank Zero. Still good information to have. The manual way to determine your dope card is to set up a target and shoot the same hold on different spots, every five yards. Note the clicks (or the hold off) needed to bring it back to zero. That is your hold off for that range. I don't have a problem with the fancy apps, but I do have 100% faith in old fashioned empirical evidence.

1704745446817.png