Jubilee Valve choices
- Thread starter O'Laugh
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Be very careful of these. The first one i got the fill hose was cross threaded into thr valve block. The 2nd had no face on one of the gauges. No 3rd try for me!
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I use this one and it works fine with my Scott 45 minute tank, It is a slow fill valve for what its worth.
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@JEFROX I have a tank with a Jubilee valve and I’ve had it for a couple of years. I recommend a different type of valve if it doesn’t already come with your tank. If you’re paying extra select something that many airgunners have used and speak highly of as to the materials, ease of use, fit and finish. I particularly would pay attention to what folks say about the feel of the valve knob tiring and ease of controlling the flow of air. Here is a weak point of the Jubilee valve. If I were in your shoes I’d consider this Joe B. valve from TopGun Airguns for $230. I haven’t used it but I’ve read enough good things on AGN to invest in one. It has two gauges, one for internal tank pressure and another for fill line pressure.
www.topgun-airguns.com
TJ3 Dual Gauge Valve - TopGun-Airguns
The absolute best Dual gauge valve system for your airtank. With the TJ3 Dual Gauge system, you have the main glycerin filled gauge (2.5″on 7/8″ & M18 thread and 2″ on the 5/8″) that reads out clearly and accurately the air going into your gun’s airtank. The 1.7″ dial gauge shows the air...
www.topgun-airguns.com Upvote 0
I too bought a used Scott SCBA off eBay (60 minute) and have been very pleased with it so far. I plan to get a 30 minute as well for use in the field and as a loaner when I let friends and relatives borrow one of my airguns. The Scott SCBA valves are built to go through heck and back, probably overbuilt for PCP use with a huge protective plastic cap on the top, and are very smooth in operation.
You might want to consider the following for your tank.
- Inspect Inside The Tank
If you haven't filled it already, you may want to remove the valve assembly and inspect inside the tank before filling it so you will know the condition. A bore scope or similar inspection camera makes it easy and you can use it later for additional inspections every few years. The inspection cameras are very inexpensive on amazon / ebay. I would get one that is at least 1080p as the lower res ones don't give a clear image. If you go with a bore scope, the Teslong is probably still the best you can get for the money. - A Hand Tightening Fill Station
I bought one like this one and it is working well. You don't need to have a wrench to install or remove it. You might want a longer hose, but they are quite inexpensive and extra hoses are nice to have around. - Add a male quick connect to the fill station
I replaced the threaded on hose with a threaded in male 1/8 quick connect on the valve assembly and a female quick connect added to the other end of the hose, so the hose can be easily removed for transporting the tank in a bag. All my hoses now have female connectors on both ends and my tanks have male quick connects, so everything swaps out easily. A few male to male connectors made of stainless steel allow easy extension / adapting using more than one hose. - Protective Caps for Fill Station
I added a protective cap for the gauge, tank side of the fill station and the male quick connect to keep out debris when carrying it in the tank backpack / bag. The cover for the gauge is the cap from a large bottle of Ocean Spray fruit juice. I removed most of the threads on the inside until it popped on and off easily but didn't fall off. See photos below. - Remove the spring under the valve knob
This will make it so you don't have to push down on the vale to turn it off. The lockout is designed so that there would be no chance of shutting off the air supply by accident when fighting fires in close quarters or whatever. Not needed and it is in fact a hindrance with PCP filling, making it more difficult to shut off the air flow at the right moment. Just remove the nut in the center of the valve knob, take the knob off, remove the spring, put the knob and nut back on.- Link to my post on this here at AGN. - Protective Cap for the fill station connection point.
The threads on the output connection are standard plumbing threads. You can find a brass or plastic cap at the hardware store that will thread on there to keep out debris when your fill station is removed. - Secure the tank when in use.
After reading about an instance where a tank took off like a rocket when the gauge failed, I have since secured my tanks when using them. Something as simple as a piece of nylon webbing or a ratchet tie down that secures it to something solid and heavy will help reduce the chance of injury or property damage. I tied a stout rope around the neck of the bottle and secured that to my work surface so the tank would only move a few inches if the gauge or something else released a large volume of air.
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I bought the 74 cf tank from Joe B. The valve and tank are very nice but the smaller tank pressure gauge is way off. I called Top Gun and they said they would send a replacement gauge but they never did. So I bought another liquid filled gauge like on the other side of that valve. It of course is bigger but no big deal. Valve works good though.@JEFROX I have a tank with a Jubilee valve and I’ve had it for a couple of years. I recommend a different type of valve if it doesn’t already come with your tank. If you’re paying extra select something that many airgunners have used and speak highly of as to the materials, ease of use, fit and finish. I particularly would pay attention to what folks say about the feel of the valve knob tiring and ease of controlling the flow of air. Here is a weak point of the Jubilee valve. If I were in your shoes I’d consider this Joe B. valve from TopGun Airguns for $230. I haven’t used it but I’ve read enough good things on AGN to invest in one. It has two gauges, one for internal tank pressure and another for fill line pressure.
View attachment 308880
TJ3 Dual Gauge Valve - TopGun-Airguns
The absolute best Dual gauge valve system for your airtank. With the TJ3 Dual Gauge system, you have the main glycerin filled gauge (2.5″on 7/8″ & M18 thread and 2″ on the 5/8″) that reads out clearly and accurately the air going into your gun’s airtank. The 1.7″ dial gauge shows the air...
JEFROX:
If you buy a different valve for your SCOTT tank just make sure it’s the proper threads. There’s more than one thread size used on SCBA’s on the market. The Saber Tactical is a slick looking valve, I have no experience with it though.
Also, it is pretty easy to remove the guts from the valve that prevents inadvertent shut off. It’s kind of a ratchet design. I used to inspect scba’s brought in from the local UPS depot at the dive shop I worked at. You don’t have to tinker with any high pressure portion of the valve when removing ratchet mechanism.
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@Geezerhood Where’d you buy the black protective caps? Do you have a link? Using the juice bottle cap for a cover is creative. That’s the blue one right?
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Cool. I have seen nothing but good reviews for that item from Joe B.
The black cap is from a multiple size vinyl cap purchase and the blue one is a 1/8 male QC fill port cap with a tether, that is made for the fill port on your airgun - available in several colors. The white cap that covers the glass on the gauge came from the large Ocean Spray juice bottle.
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Learned it here. I can't remember who first suggested it to me here, but thanks is owed to them!
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On some scba tanks, (not sure if all or not) you can just tighten the screw and then use it normally without removing anything. I have done that on my scott tank.
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