Just Ordered A Tuxing TXEDT033

I'm just a retired mechanical engineer who's specialty was Hydraulics and PLC systems. Now I build hotrods...below is a quote from my recent ASE cert. program...I know that tap water in some areas is very hard as is most well water. This is why I purchase premixed 50/50 solution and so far no issues or signs of deposits being built up. Like anything else, do your research and make your decision based on your best analysis of facts.....if it's on the internet or social media it has to be tru right?😂

Be sure that you use a mixture of half antifreeze and half water in the radiator. The antifreeze contains chemicals designed to prevent rust and corrosion from the water and can help keep the minerals in the water from damaging the engine or radiator. You shouldn’t have to use bottled water unless the water available out of a garden hose contains too much salt or other minerals.
 
I just received my 032, seems to be of a decent build quality. I have already overfilled the crankcase, fill it slowly I've learned. Im able to drain some seco out but it still shows too much on oil gauge!

I would never use a normal type antifreeze in these. They contain phosphates. Phosphates fall out of suspension and plug coolers. I personally was gonna use Detroit diesel antifreeze 50/50 distilled water but now I'll try the water wetter as suggested.
 
I'm not a chemist and can't play one. Phosphate is common in IAT coolants and HOAT coolants made for many Asian brand vehicles. It coats metal and prevents corrosion. But, if a coolant containing phosphate is mixed with hard tap water, that coating can become problematic over time. It can flake off and form layers of scale. Mixing it with distilled water is a whole new layer of problem.
That's why I buy premixed solution. You pays your money to takes your chances.

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You get to buy a new compressor. If anti-freeze draws minerals out and creates salt deposits then....why do we use it in cars? most are aluminum engines. Antifreeze has anti-corrosion additives if memory serves. Just wondering.
Well I have mine running on 50/50 premix designed for aluminum engines. I don’t have many other options as I don’t want to drain it constantly or drag it into the house every time it freezes.
 
I believe the breakdown of said antifreezes only happen when left in an engine for over 25,000 miles or so! Therefore not a problem when replaced at proper intervals. I've only used distilled water with it.

I've only put distilled water in 032 for now. I'm not gonna replace it, temp went to 105. And the instructions are horrible, written in broken English.
 
For what it's worth....probably not going g to matter if you change fluid once a year or so. I change my oil I change my coolant, but, I only fill guns so twice a year. Like I said, I'm not a chemist and don't play one...

Quote from my ASE cert testing.
"
During the distillation process, water is vaporized into its gaseous phase, so all its impurities are left behind. These impurities include a number of minerals, including “calcium” and “magnesium,” the two components of water “hardness.” The water is then condensed back into its liquid phase, so the resulting liquid is pure water – in fact, some of the purest water on earth. But the problem is that when water is distilled, or “stripped,” of its minerals and impurities, the resulting solution is composed of chemically imbalanced “ions.” This leaves distilled water “ionically hungry,” so it will actually strip electrons from the metals in a cooling system as it attempts to chemically re-balance itself. As it chemically removes electrons from the metals of cooling system components, distilled water eventually does extreme damage that could lead to cooling system failure.

So what’s the answer? Softened water. During the water softening process, the same impurities and minerals are removed from water as during the distillation process – but with one very important distinction. Rather than STRIPPING the impurities from water, softening EXCHANGES the impurities with a sodium ion. The resulting solution is chemically and ionically balanced, making softened water very stable, very pure, and non-threatening to cooling system metals" unquote
 
What about using the redline wetting agent with it?
Don't personally know about Redline, but, I did use a different additive. Since I only fill rifles direct my system, an 032 Tuxing, never gets above 124degF. A good test would be using an infrared pyrometer and measure inlet vs outlet return hose temperature. Any delta is a good thing. Many of today's modern cars use coolants that already contain these additives. Since we can't control the compressor manufacturing we need to control those thing we can like Temp. Oil, filtration, etc......and avoid bad practices.
 
I wanted to share a couple photos of the extra filter I have installed on my 032. I ended up finding the clamps at Home Depot and then added a hose clamp to keep the filter a bit tighter to the frame. I did have to cut piece of the cover to allow it to fit over the filter. Tuxing sent me a new u-shaped tube that goes from filter to filter at the top since the original leaked. The replacement had to be de-burred and reshaped a bit but now it has no leak.

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I wanted to share a couple photos of the extra filter I have installed on my 032. I ended up finding the clamps at Home Depot and then added a hose clamp to keep the filter a bit tighter to the frame. I did have to cut piece of the cover to allow it to fit over the filter. Tuxing sent me a new u-shaped tube that goes from filter to filter at the top since the original leaked. The replacement had to be de-burred and reshaped a bit but now it has no leak.

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Very nice sir. I too needed a new prebent tube as original was overbent, not good for these compression type fittings. The extra filter you added...what brand is this and is it a water separator? That's got to add a little more time to get to pressure.
 
We're you getting water or moisture out of your line and felt the need for the added filter tower? I bleed the towers frequently and get a white moisture substance or water and oil out of them but nothing has accumulated on the hose end fitting when unplugged from the gun or tank. If we see it there we have a problem.
 
Very nice sir. I too needed a new prebent tube as original was overbent, not good for these compression type fittings. The extra filter you added...what brand is this and is it a water separator? That's got to add a little more time to get to pressure.
Yes it seems to add just a bit more time to get the system to pressure but nothing concerning. The filter is a water/oil separator purchased on Amazon. It's a Toauto brand. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SX5G9V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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We're you getting water or moisture out of your line and felt the need for the added filter tower? I bleed the towers frequently and get a white moisture substance or water and oil out of them but nothing has accumulated on the hose end fitting when unplugged from the gun or tank. If we see it there we have a problem.
When I first received the compressor the u-shaped tube connecting the two filters leaked really bad. While waiting on replacement parts I had the other water/oil separator on hand and connected it to the first tower filter so I could at least use the compressor and break it in and leak test. After that I figured I'd keep it in place to add a bit more filtration to the system. Is it overkill? Maybe but if helps dry the air into the tank or gun it's cool with me. It's not too humid here at this time of the year but in the summer it may help even more.
 
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Yes it seems to add just a bit more time to get the system to pressure but nothing concerning. The filter is a water/oil separator purchased on Amazon. It's a Toauto brand. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SX5G9V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just a thought. With this separator you might be better served if this was the 1st unit to receive the compressed air from the coiled tube then on to the Tuxing twin. Would require some metric fittings but can be done.
My unit fills guns then autoshutoff. I then use the drain on the Tuxing 1st unit. Some spit/sputter as the system decompressed. 2nd unit air drain is always very dry. Take care.
 
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Ive been filling my rifle from 2000 to 3000 in two minutes approx with comp. Not many contaminates came out of the tower(first one) none in second, at first but after about 10 refills it would sputter a good amount. A white milky substance! Is this oil and moisture? Or just moisture? The seco is clear so I can't see it. It's been humid in se Louisiana.

I filled my 3L tank from empty, it took 24 minutes to get to 3000 ( I had the comp set to that) and the temp was 127. This was last night, It was late so I shut it down and just filled it to 4500 I didn't time it but it was a lot faster getting to 4500 and the temp was only 112. I bled the valves several times throughout, a lot of sputter came out 1st tower and some out of the second.

Do you know How many refills I can get from a 3L tank filling the rifle from 2000 to 3000 before I need to refill tank?
 
Ive been filling my rifle from 2000 to 3000 in two minutes approx with comp. Not many contaminates came out of the tower(first one) none in second, at first but after about 10 refills it would sputter a good amount. A white milky substance! Is this oil and moisture? Or just moisture? The seco is clear so I can't see it. It's been humid in se Louisiana.

I filled my 3L tank from empty, it took 24 minutes to get to 3000 ( I had the comp set to that) and the temp was 127. This was last night, It was late so I shut it down and just filled it to 4500 I didn't time it but it was a lot faster getting to 4500 and the temp was only 112. I bled the valves several times throughout, a lot of sputter came out 1st tower and some out of the second.

Do you know How many refills I can get from a 3L tank filling the rifle from 2000 to 3000 before I need to refill tank?

About 19 fills from 2000 to 3000 bottle charged to 4500 filling Marauder rifle.
 
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So, would you recommend the 032 model without the " auto" over the 033? The 032 model is about $200 more which doesn't make much sense to me. Less features for more money. ($959 vs $1159 - Amaz)
I like the auto, I've got ADD, I see a squirrel and off I go. I do keep an eye on it but every little bit helps, even with the auto pressure bleed. I got mine for under $1000 it was on sale, couldn't pass it up. Mine is due for its 1 hour oil change, got some different stuff in, I'm going to smooth up the area around the drain so it'll actually seal, they could have done that easily when tapping the threads for the drain plug.
 
I like the auto, I've got ADD, I see a squirrel and off I go. I do keep an eye on it but every little bit helps, even with the auto pressure bleed. I got mine for under $1000 it was on sale, couldn't pass it up. Mine is due for its 1 hour oil change, got some different stuff in, I'm going to smooth up the area around the drain so it'll actually seal, they could have done that easily when tapping the threads for the drain plug.
I couldn't find the 033 unit only the 032, I would've bought the self purging unit if I could've found it. The 032 comes with a rocker switch that doesn't do anything, I'm assuming you have that same rocker on the 033 that you press to purge the unit? All in 799 on Tuxing site and on Amazon it would've cost me 1205 that's a savings of 406. Plus on Amazon I would've bought the ext warranty for another 93 bucks.