Good to see the domestic prices coming down...last fall you'd pay roughly $100 more for the same thing purchased in the states, than purchased overseas direct including shipping costs.
Sounds like you are using the wrong oil. I wouldn't use anything but synthetic compressor oil. I use Kobalt synthetic from Lowes (https://goo.gl/a2EhhU). Oil still looks brand new.
If your airgun fill air through the compressor directly, you can choose this airfilter, it can better remove the oil or water , you aslo can install air filter to take fill for your diving scuba tank. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFN61M2
I've had my Young Heng compressor now for about a year. So far it has been excellent. No problems other than the filters get wet and then the pressure safety valve blows if you do not dry out the filter after every use. It is amazing how much water they remove....plus oil. I blew out the safety valve three times before I figured out that the filter was too wet to allow free flow of air. I dry my filters in the clothes dryer and that seems to solve the problem for now. I will be getting a larger more efficient filter for it soon.
Useing royal purple 100 oil . I think I just got a bad one , lots of issues straight out of the box before it was even plugged in , including a nasty little flat spot on the crank journal spanning about 2/3rds of the bearing surface . I really should have sent it back but .... I will continue tinkering with it till it blows up or I get an alpha carette .
Looks like you have machining experience, have you considered machining the connecting rod to accept bearings? In a video on YouTube a fellow Brit had a problem with his YH and was showing a close up of the con-rod and I not only noticed there were no bearings at either end, the rod would shift laterally as he rotated the motor by hand.
I have just ordered a new piston connecting rod combo and plan to ream out both ends to allow the insertion of a bearing. My initial thought was to use needle roller bearings, but my concern is the amount of metal that will need to be removed may weaken the con-rod too much, based on the pressures developed I believe a simple thin walled Phosphor-Bronze sleeve bearing would probably be sufficient.
Another modification that I think would improve the pump would be spacers on the wrist pin and crankshaft to stop the con-rod from moving laterally, the crank will require drilling and tapping so a retaining bolt and washer can be installed to hold the spacers and con-rod in place.
I think the bronze bushing is about all you could get away with . The rod has a bearing machined into the crank end , so you could bore that material out and replace it with the bronze bushing press fit into the rod . Mine bit the bullet a couple of weeks ago , not sure if it's worth fixing or not . Buying a Carette next week so not sure I even have the motivation to fix it now .