What draws me to Kral is the bang for your buck, of course. But also, they are built stout and are simple in design.
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Kral Information Thread. “Contribute what you know “
- Thread starter Perle
- Start date
I've had this (Kral made) Benjamin Cayden for about 3 years and I've yet to find anything that can beat it's accuracy at 50 yds or less (and I've had FX, Kalibrgun, etc. etc. ) or reliability and ease of use. I'm hoping this Bighorn that Troy's sending me is just as good, just a larger caliber and more power.
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Didn’t Troy place way up in the top .25 in an Airgun competition among a sea of FX guns with a Kral ? I remember seeing that
I usually keep things stock airgun wise but I’d gladly send my NP or Breaker to Troy for a “ set up “
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I think he said he is not tuning customer guns anymore and is focusing on selling new, tuned guns.
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They really are very accurate and easy to work on. After you fix the hammer bounce and smooth out the shot string they are super consistent. There is a reason I've had 6 and still have 4. Had a breaker last year and didn't like it because it was a bullpup. I've tried 4 bullpups and none really stuck with me, the akela was my favorite. I sold my NP03 25 cal regged bottle gun to another forum member and somewhat regret that now, but I enjoy shooting my rifles more.
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He doest have the time now. Don't see him posting on here much lately either. I'm sure his plate is more than full.
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Hey @Roachcreek , did you have to modify the wood stock on your Bighorn when you swapped the aluminum tank for a carbon fiber? I have a 500 cc CF tank already but, like you, am considering getting a 700 cc tank instead.
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Thanks @Roachcreek .
My Bighorn came in and already I see that it has potential. I've started a list of things I want to do to it.
Has anyone ever refinished their stock? The Bighorn has a very dark stain, which I'm not particularly fond of. Any suggestions on how to remove the stain without removing wood?
The barrel also has a fair amount of flex to it. Has anyone ever made a barrel band for the Bighorn?
My Bighorn came in and already I see that it has potential. I've started a list of things I want to do to it.
Has anyone ever refinished their stock? The Bighorn has a very dark stain, which I'm not particularly fond of. Any suggestions on how to remove the stain without removing wood?
The barrel also has a fair amount of flex to it. Has anyone ever made a barrel band for the Bighorn?
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I've sent the dimensions to a 3D printer and should get a barrel band for the Bighorn by week's end.
Today was the first good weather day we've had since getting the Bighorn, so I set up a N50 target and shot 4 1/2 magazines for accuracy. I was getting "OK" accuracy, maybe 1.5 to 2 MOA, which was a little disappointing. I was beginning to think it might be the ammo, but then I decided to shoot 5 more rounds with the suppressor off. Boy, what a difference. All 5 shots were hole in hole, easily 1/4 MOA. So I figure there's something going on with the suppressor. I suspect that the mount isn't as solid as it should be. The threaded end cap threads end about 1/8" short, and that's probably just enough to cause some wobble and loss of accuracy.
Today was the first good weather day we've had since getting the Bighorn, so I set up a N50 target and shot 4 1/2 magazines for accuracy. I was getting "OK" accuracy, maybe 1.5 to 2 MOA, which was a little disappointing. I was beginning to think it might be the ammo, but then I decided to shoot 5 more rounds with the suppressor off. Boy, what a difference. All 5 shots were hole in hole, easily 1/4 MOA. So I figure there's something going on with the suppressor. I suspect that the mount isn't as solid as it should be. The threaded end cap threads end about 1/8" short, and that's probably just enough to cause some wobble and loss of accuracy.
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I have been puzzled by the Karl “ring round the bottom”12-20 end cap, as far as function, I guess it was to be easier to remove the led? My fix came with the immediate -removal of the choke, then putting on a dfl threaded adapter which is hidden under my vented shroud.
When I put the heavier PITBULL spring in my Bulldog, I also bought a steel operating lever from Pitbull. Anyone know what Kral models share the Bighorh operating lever in case I need to replace it further down the line.
I just put a couple of coats of trueoil on my stock.
Roachcreek
When I put the heavier PITBULL spring in my Bulldog, I also bought a steel operating lever from Pitbull. Anyone know what Kral models share the Bighorh operating lever in case I need to replace it further down the line.
I just put a couple of coats of trueoil on my stock.
Roachcreek
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Hey @Roachcreek , could you post a few photos of what you did? Did you cut off the choke or did Troy do it for you?
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My hillbilly gunsmithing may offend some of you, if it does shield you tender eyes, sorry no pictures, to prevent me from being burned at the stake by machinists. 
I cut off the choke and recrowned my barrel myself. I spin the barrel in my drill press that is positioned on its side and the barrel supported by a 2x6 in a vice with a hole drilled in it to support the end of the barrel. I then spin the barrel while cutting with a Dremel cut off tool, I contour the outside of the crown with the cut off tool. The actual crown is shaped by spinning against a drill bit, then I polish the crown to a mirror finish with #7 and Flintz.
I had no velocity loss after removing the choke due to how tight it was.
USING A SOLUD STEEL ROD WITH BALL BEARING HANFLE AND PROPPER FITTING CLEANING JAG, I then polished with #7, followed by Flintz, I call it “jug choking” as I polish the barrel area from the lead to the muzzle reducing the number of jag passes as I near the muzzle. The result is a very minute taper from the lead to the crown.
I then go after the lead with .25 Kraytex bulbs in my Dremel, I duplicated the shape of the MPMolds .252 hp bullet with those bulbs, it takes a while and several “fitting slugs” and many bulbs, but the result is a “wine cork in bottle” fit.
For porting the barrel, researched two very good threads on barrel boating. I then drilled 9 holes @ .11, 1 inch from the muzzle, in a pattern of three holes in three lines running along the length of the barrel for 1/2 inch. I removed the inside burs, then made new endcaps of aluminum for the now shortened and replaced aluminum shroud.
The posters in the two porting threads found increased slug accuracy, by removing the air blast from the base of the slug, and a minor difference in muzzle report. With the higher intensity of the 25 Bighorn @ 80-90 fpe, the report to me seems quieter, but that is all subjective.
And for me it works and has for years.
Regards,
Roachcreek_
I cut off the choke and recrowned my barrel myself. I spin the barrel in my drill press that is positioned on its side and the barrel supported by a 2x6 in a vice with a hole drilled in it to support the end of the barrel. I then spin the barrel while cutting with a Dremel cut off tool, I contour the outside of the crown with the cut off tool. The actual crown is shaped by spinning against a drill bit, then I polish the crown to a mirror finish with #7 and Flintz.
I had no velocity loss after removing the choke due to how tight it was.
USING A SOLUD STEEL ROD WITH BALL BEARING HANFLE AND PROPPER FITTING CLEANING JAG, I then polished with #7, followed by Flintz, I call it “jug choking” as I polish the barrel area from the lead to the muzzle reducing the number of jag passes as I near the muzzle. The result is a very minute taper from the lead to the crown.
I then go after the lead with .25 Kraytex bulbs in my Dremel, I duplicated the shape of the MPMolds .252 hp bullet with those bulbs, it takes a while and several “fitting slugs” and many bulbs, but the result is a “wine cork in bottle” fit.
For porting the barrel, researched two very good threads on barrel boating. I then drilled 9 holes @ .11, 1 inch from the muzzle, in a pattern of three holes in three lines running along the length of the barrel for 1/2 inch. I removed the inside burs, then made new endcaps of aluminum for the now shortened and replaced aluminum shroud.
The posters in the two porting threads found increased slug accuracy, by removing the air blast from the base of the slug, and a minor difference in muzzle report. With the higher intensity of the 25 Bighorn @ 80-90 fpe, the report to me seems quieter, but that is all subjective.
And for me it works and has for years.
Regards,
Roachcreek_
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Here is a repair slip from a friends Krahl Puncher Breaker in .22 It was very detailed, so maybe this will help someone if they have low FPS.
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