Kral Information Thread. “Contribute what you know “

[moodyblues]

I don't know if this is true for the other Kral's, but I needed a bigger caliber moderator than I do with other rifles. I tested with no moderator, a .22/.25 Sumo and a .25/.30 Ronin. With no moderator I will get sub MOA at 50 yds. With the smaller caliber Sumo it becomes a scatter gun. But with the .25/.30 Ronin, it's back to sub MOA but with a POI that is 4-5" lower.

Hey Stretch I think it’s a moderator issue more than a Kral issue. I’ve got 6 Kral barrels and have had a few more. If I use a Donny I go up in caliber per their recommendation, If I don’t I have poi shifts.
I have zero problems with my hugget, rocker1 or the mod oldspook made for me. I have zero poi shift between the three.

 

[Perle]

I always use a larger caliber Mod as well. .30 cal mods on my .25

 

[kuroshio_098]

I have a Tanto that I use on .177 and .22 PCPs. It is the .177/.22 size. All of those PCPs are more accurate with a Sumo .177/.22. You guys are making me think that I should have got the Tanto for .25 cal. It makes me wonder if the sizing affects the harmonics in a negative way.

I've also found that some bipods (albeit mine are all cheap ones) are better for accuracy and I am not sure if it is a harmonics problem or a stability issue.

 

[Stretch]

I fixed the fitment issue with the Ronin. Some careful measuring and use of a step-drill and it now fits perfectly.

 

[Stretch]

I swapped the aluminum bottle for a carbon fiber one I had and installed a barrel band I had made. The CF bottle really lightened up the rifle. The barrel band didn't fit exactly right, so I had to modify it with a dremmel. Too soon to say if accuracy improved, but POI went up about 6" (about the same amount that the suppressor moved it down) so that's an improvement. Accuracy definitely isn't worse, but I won't know what effect it has on fliers until we get a windless day to test.

To answer some earlier questions: Yes, the stock bottle uses a standard thread (M18x1.5). No there isn't any "anti-tamper" device. And yes, they really torque the heck out of the bottle, it was a real bugger to get off.

 

[Perle]

That looks tits !

That scope height is very low to me. Is that better for long distance??

My breaker has a very high scope mount otherwise it will kill your neck lining upto it

 

[kuroshio_098]

I like that counter bore on the Donny.

Are you still using the same fill pressure after the bottle swap?

 

[Stretch]

That looks tits !

That scope height is very low to me. Is that better for long distance??

My breaker has a very high scope mount otherwise it will kill your neck lining upto it

The general rule for scope mounting is to have it as close to the bore as possible. Not so much for long range but closer range is where it might make a difference.

 

[Stretch]

I like that counter bore on the Donny.

Are you still using the same fill pressure after the bottle swap?

Yep, no change.

 

[Perle]

The general rule for scope mounting is to have it as close to the bore as possible. Not so much for long range but closer range is where it might make a difference.

I thought so. This just looks way to high and almost max turrets or major holdover for up close work. ( inside 15y )

 

[kuroshio_098]

I haven't bought a bullpup because of the high mounts needed but that Puncher Breaker looks sweet.

The valve was very tight on my Kral as well. It was not easy to take off but there was no loctite on the threads.

 

[Perle]

Thank you. This unit is on sale at AGD for 299. !!


I can remove the check rest but then that’s skin on metal . That should help with the low mounts I want to use … anyway

Yeah I dislike the high mounted scope!

 

[JimNM]

FWIW - after a few 10,000+ shots, you will want to replace the breach o-ring. The .25 caliber size is 6.5mm id 9.5mm od and 1.5mm cross section. I have about 98 more than I need at this time. If you find you need one or two, PM me. Yoiu should never feel air on your face during the shot.

My Kinght had slowly lost a lot of power and consistency. It was time to clean it up. I found the hammer adjust knob had worked itself loose and the internals were coated in grime and gun. Out came the hammer, spring, cocking lever and transfer bar. Brake cleaner and a coat of dry lube and reset the hammer spring. New oring on the valve poppet and new breach oring. It shoots like a new gun again!

I went from 700FPS to 890FPS just by cleaning and lubing. Now I will have to re-shot string the gun because the power output is so much different than I had become accustomed to.

 

[kuroshio_098]

FWIW - after a few 10,000+ shots, you will want to replace the breach o-ring. The .25 caliber size is 6.5mm id 9.5mm od and 1.5mm cross section...

Similar thing happened to me. I felt some air leaking out of my Puncher power adjuster and after changing the seals on the power adjuster, barrel and outer valve, I gained power and consistency.

I feel the replacement o rings were of better quality than the factory set so I changed out my NP03 seals with the spares.

Both of my Krals are great shooters though each required some work to get to that point. It makes me question if I ever want to spend more for a more premium PCP again.

 

[Stretch]

Both of my Krals are great shooters though each required some work to get to that point. It makes me question if I ever want to spend more for a more premium PCP again.

Both my Cayden .22 and Bighorn .25 shoot better out of the box than the FX Impact I had last year ever did. My only wish is that they were more slug friendly.

 

[Stretch]

I have two issues with my Bighorn that I'm hoping the brain bank can help me sort out:

- First issue is that the magazines don't cycle properly. When I first started shooting the magazines didn't go in the receiver easily (had to wiggle and jiggle it in place) and then every couple of rounds I had a hard time getting the bolt to close (more wiggle and jiggle). I think in the process the skirt of the pellets are being damaged and that is causing fliers. Looking at the magazine I don't see any obvious imperfections that might be causing the problem. Any ideas or suggestions?

- Second issue is that I'm getting some leaking through the rear set screw that secures the barrel to the receiver. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that's the same hole for the port under the barrel, right? I'm thinking I should remove the set screw and put some sealant around the threads, but the question is: what kind of sealant do you recommend? A thread locker?

 

[Roachcreek]

There are two o’rings around the barrel stub ( the barrek portion that is in the receiver) one on each side of the transfer port, I would replace them, and NOT use thread locker on that barrel retension screw.

I have never shot pellets in my magazines, but I suspect your barrel may be too far into the receiver and bearing on the magazine.

After replacing the above mentioned o’rings, when you reinstall your barrel, you will see those screws seat into sockets in the top of the barrel stub to to secure your barrel in the receiver, reinstall the barrel and the barrel retension screws, then loosen those screws one 1/2 turn or so, you should at that point be able to slightly rock the barrel if you gently pull or twist it, (it is still retained by the now loose retension screws). As you retighten it, pulli the barrel away from the receiver as you then fully retighten those barrel retension screws. It will move only a few thousands of an inch, but give you a bit more room in the magazine well.

You can experiment with the above by loosening those screws and adjusting the barrel as described without removing the barrel to see if it works for you. Also bear in mind, all this can be done without completely removing the barrel rearing screws, they are easily cross threaded, but two and a half turns to loosen then should allow your barrel to be fully removed.

Hope this helps.

RC

 

[Stretch]

There are two o’rings around the barrel stub ( the barrek portion that is in the receiver) one on each side of the transfer port, I would replace them, and NOT use thread locker on that barrel retension screw.

I have never shot pellets in my magazines, but I suspect your barrel may be too far into the receiver and bearing on the magazine.

After replacing the above mentioned o’rings, when you reinstall your barrel, you will see those screws seat into sockets in the top of the barrel stub to to secure your barrel in the receiver, reinstall the barrel and the barrel retension screws, then loosen those screws one 1/2 turn or so, you should at that point be able to slightly rock the barrel if you gently pull or twist it, (it is still retained by the now loose retension screws). As you retighten it, pulli the barrel away from the receiver as you then fully retighten those barrel retension screws. It will move only a few thousands of an inch, but give you a bit more room in the magazine well.

You can experiment with the above by loosening those screws and adjusting the barrel as described without removing the barrel to see if it works for you. Also bear in mind, all this can be done without completely removing the barrel rearing screws, they are easily cross threaded, but two and a half turns to loosen then should allow your barrel to be fully removed.

Hope this helps.

RC

Thanks Roachcreek, you gave me some ideas to look out for. The breech end of the barrel sits flush with the receiver and looking at the magazine design, it looks like that's how it's supposed to be. I tried loading pellets using a single shot tray Troy gave me and the same thing happened. What I'm seeing is that as the probe pushes the pellet into the breech, the pellet tips tail up and won't enter the bore.

So I pulled the barrel and first inspected the o-rings on the outside of the barrel. I don't have replacements so I cleaned and inspected them and didn't see any obvious damage. I then cleaned the entrance to the breech. It would probably help if I polished the bevel on the breech to bore, but without a spare o-ring I opted not to. Again, the o-ring looked undamaged. I have the external o-rings a light coat of teflon grease and carefully re-installed the barrel. I finished re-assembling the rifle and gave it a function and accuracy test. I didn't have any major feeding issues, but loading a pellet did seem a little "crunchy" (which might just be because the pellet is slightly bigger than the breech).

I'll keep testing to see if the loading issues reoccur. When I get some spare o-rings I will probably give the breech and bore a good polish.

 

[Roachcreek]

About slugs and the 25 Bighorn. That choke is way to tight for slugs, however as you have found, they are excellent pellet shooters.

Perhaps the very best option is to have Troy make you a drop in TJ replacement, then use your factory tensioned shroud parts. Troy knows the dimensions of the barrels and has access to them.

You of course would need a longer shroud tube if you use a longer barrel.

When I started on my barrel it was with the knowledge that I could get a replacement barrel that would be better suited for the task at hand.

Then to switch from slugs to pellets it is a matter of two screws.

Just remember to slug the new barrel and then acquire a NOE sizing kit to size .001 over your groove diameter. Also polish out your lead to accept the slug diameter so that you do not have too much resistance when you chamber a round. Think about what that does, you are sizing that slug with your side lever. I use many 25 inch craytex bulbs and many of the desired slugs as go or no go gauges, just use them once each time as you will deform them with each use.


Regards,

Roachcreek

 

[Stretch]

About slugs and the 25 Bighorn. That choke is way to tight for slugs, however as you have found, they are excellent pellet shooters.

Perhaps the very best option is to have Troy make you a drop in TJ replacement, then use your factory tensioned shroud parts. Troy knows the dimensions of the barrels and has access to them.

Troy said he was going to cut the choke off a stock barrel, make an adapter so it would fit the existing shroud and send it to me to test. Hopefully that's still on his "to do" list.