Kral Information Thread. “Contribute what you know “

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Stretch said:
Thanks Roachcreek, you gave me some ideas to look out for. The breech end of the barrel sits flush with the receiver and looking at the magazine design, it looks like that's how it's supposed to be. I tried loading pellets using a single shot tray Troy gave me and the same thing happened. What I'm seeing is that as the probe pushes the pellet into the breech, the pellet tips tail up and won't enter the bore.
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A couple of times I had slugs and short pellets jammed between the breech and magazine on my Puncher. I switched to CARM mags with retaining o-rings for pellets and stopped having that issue. I believe CARM also makes .25 mags for Kral.

At one point when I removed the barrel from my Puncher, I realized that the lower part of the breech end of my barrel was smoothened out from use. I can see that an abrupt angle there was likely causing the jams.

On the topic of slugs, I am finding that slugs accuracy is not too bad with my Kral barrels. But in comparison, those Krals will stack JSBs and Premiers all day long. I think I need one of Troy's slug barrels to match that kind of accuracy.

These days I only shoot at closer ranges. I would want to get one of Troy's slug barrels to drop into my Puncher in the case that I do shoot at longer ranges again though.
 
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kuroshio_098 said:
A couple of times I had slugs and short pellets jammed between the breech and magazine on my Puncher. I switched to CARM mags with retaining o-rings for pellets and stopped having that issue. I believe CARM also makes .25 mags for Kral.

At one point when I removed the barrel from my Puncher, I realized that the lower part of the breech end of my barrel was smoothened out from use. I can see that an abrupt angle there was likely causing the jams.

On the topic of slugs, I am finding that slugs accuracy is not too bad with my Kral barrels. But in comparison, those Krals will stack JSBs and Premiers all day long. I think I need one of Troy's slug barrels to match that kind of accuracy.

These days I only shoot at closer ranges. I would want to get one of Troy's slug barrels to drop into my Puncher in the case that I do shoot at longer ranges again though.
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Pellets and slugs load very smoothly on my Cayden so I was a bit disappointed with the Bighorn. After I get some spare o-rings I will see if I can make it work better.

FWIW my Cayden shoots FX Hybrids just as well as JSB pellets, but the choke on this rifle does seem tighter.
 
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Roachcreek said:
My hillbilly gunsmithing may offend some of you, if it does shield you tender eyes, sorry no pictures, to prevent me from being burned at the stake by machinists. :)

I cut off the choke and recrowned my barrel myself. I spin the barrel in my drill press that is positioned on its side and the barrel supported by a 2x6 in a vice with a hole drilled in it to support the end of the barrel. I then spin the barrel while cutting with a Dremel cut off tool, I contour the outside of the crown with the cut off tool. The actual crown is shaped by spinning against a drill bit, then I polish the crown to a mirror finish with #7 and Flintz.

I had no velocity loss after removing the choke due to how tight it was.

USING A SOLUD STEEL ROD WITH BALL BEARING HANFLE AND PROPPER FITTING CLEANING JAG, I then polished with #7, followed by Flintz, I call it “jug choking” as I polish the barrel area from the lead to the muzzle reducing the number of jag passes as I near the muzzle. The result is a very minute taper from the lead to the crown.

I then go after the lead with .25 Kraytex bulbs in my Dremel, I duplicated the shape of the MPMolds .252 hp bullet with those bulbs, it takes a while and several “fitting slugs” and many bulbs, but the result is a “wine cork in bottle” fit.

For porting the barrel, researched two very good threads on barrel boating. I then drilled 9 holes @ .11, 1 inch from the muzzle, in a pattern of three holes in three lines running along the length of the barrel for 1/2 inch. I removed the inside burs, then made new endcaps of aluminum for the now shortened and replaced aluminum shroud.

The posters in the two porting threads found increased slug accuracy, by removing the air blast from the base of the slug, and a minor difference in muzzle report. With the higher intensity of the 25 Bighorn @ 80-90 fpe, the report to me seems quieter, but that is all subjective.

And for me it works and has for years.

Regards,

Roachcreek_
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Hey Roachcreek,

Do you have a link to the barrel porting threads you researched? I’ve been wanting to do this as well and am working on a sinker edm. Got some tweaks to do on it still and want to learn some more before just blindly making some holes.

Thanks in advance,
Dave
 
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I managed to take some photos of my pellet loading issue. I'm using a single shot tray so you can see what's happening but it happens with both a single load tray and using a magazine.

Here's a photo of a pellet loading correctly:

IMG_20221125_125048286_HDR.jpg

And here's a photo of the issue. As the head of the pellet enters the breach, the tail of the pellet tilts up and then jams. I thought it might be caused by friction in the loading ramp so I carefully polished it. That, unfortunately, didn't fix the problem.

IMG_20221125_125454928_HDR.jpg

Ideas? Suggestions?
 
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Stretch said:
I managed to take some photos of my pellet loading issue. I'm using a single shot tray so you can see what's happening but it happens with both a single load tray and using a magazine.

Here's a photo of a pellet loading correctly:

View attachment 308483

And here's a photo of the issue. As the head of the pellet enters the breach, the tail of the pellet tilts up and then jams. I thought it might be caused by friction in the loading ramp so I carefully polished it. That, unfortunately, didn't fix the problem.

View attachment 308484

Ideas? Suggestions?
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I had a similar problem with one of my Priest barrels, in my case I was able to increase and polish the chamfer at the pellet entrance. In my case, there was zero bevel where the pellet entered, and judging by the condition of the magazines that came with the gun (used), the previous owner was never able to shoot with this barrel.
 
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Scotty1 said:
I had a similar problem with one of my Priest barrels, in my case I was able to increase and polish the chamfer at the pellet entrance. In my case, there was zero bevel where the pellet entered, and judging by the condition of the magazines that came with the gun (used), the previous owner was never able to shoot with this barrel.
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I think that's what I'm going to have to do as well. I'll have to be careful, though, because there isn't a lot of room between the end of the barrel and the breach o-ring.
 
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After finding that fire lapping increased the amount of shots I was able to take from my NP03 between cleanings, I used a jag and polished the barrel some more.

The results were good. It takes even more shots to foul the barrel, cleaning takes fewer passes and accuracy has marginally improved.

I got the NP03 during the super deal. Although my use of airguns changed since I had my first PCP over 15 years ago, I can confidently say that the NP03 has to be the best performance for my dollar that I have seen with PCPs.
 
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kuroshio_098 said:
After finding that fire lapping increased the amount of shots I was able to take from my NP03 between cleanings, I used a jag and polished the barrel some more.

The results were good. It takes even more shots to foul the barrel, cleaning takes fewer passes and accuracy has marginally improved.

I got the NP03 during the super deal. Although my use of airguns changed since I had my first PCP over 15 years ago, I can confidently say that the NP03 has to be the best performance for my dollar that I have seen with PCPs.
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Were you using pellets or slugs to fire lap the bore? What size jag were you using? I find that .22 cal jags don't fit air rifle bores, they're usually too big. What I use to polish the bore on my powder burners is a nylon bristled bore brush with a wrap of cleaning cloth. Not perfect but I only do a "mild" polish with Flitz. But I'm not sure how I would do it with a choked barrel.
 
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Stretch said:
Were you using pellets or slugs to fire lap the bore? What size jag were you using? I find that .22 cal jags don't fit air rifle bores, they're usually too big. What I use to polish the bore on my powder burners is a nylon bristled bore brush with a wrap of cleaning cloth. Not perfect but I only do a "mild" polish with Flitz. But I'm not sure how I would do it with a choked barrel.
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I used slugs for fire lapping. And I used a standard .22 brass jag. It fit in the bore without much difficulty. I was going to use a mop or brush initially but this bore was pretty rough.
 
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Stretch said:
DonnyFL Sumo. Troy said he can ream the Sumo's endcap on his mill to make it fit properly.
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I ordered a sumo for my np03. I'm guessing this is why donnyFL offer an adapter for these even though they have the 'correct' thread from the factory. Being in Florida I think ordering the donnyfl adapter now would be my best bet?
 
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Advised by @Moderator3 to continue this thread here about optimal hammer spring specs for np03 variant.

Kral NP03 …. Grabbed one

I hope I wasn’t the only person to see the Kral NP03 was on sale and available just a few days ago for $249.00 Grabbed one in .177. Picked up a reflex dot and a suppressor. Always wanted a .177 dedicated to heavy .177 duties. Grabbed a single shot tray as well If anyone else got one...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com

@kurohad experimented with hammer springs and found a 10.4lb pring with a 0.48" O/D and 2.25" long worked best.

@gendoc
@Perle
@Boostcreep

Also in discussion

Hill Airgun has a 10.5lb spring at 2.5" which I have ordered and intend to cut down to 2.25" seems to be marauder springs that fit as someone previously stated.
 
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eyeball & measuring stick....about 1/2"

and about the spring info, i'm looking for power not shot count.
this gun will be used exclusively for night pesting on my farm (tractor gun)....
i'm curious what his results were with the spring @ 2.5"
power increased ?? because with my stock spring maxed out it does just over 850fps with cpd 14.3gr.
 
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gendoc said:
eyeball & measuring stick....about 1/2"

and about the spring info, i'm looking for power not shot count.
this gun will be used exclusively for night pesting on my farm (tractor gun)....
i'm curious what his results were with the spring @ 2.5"
power increased ?? because with my stock spring maxed out it does just over 850fps with cpd 14.3gr.
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Thanks for the dimension!!

I just transferred the discussion here so I'm not sure of the answer to that.

I'll let the OP chime in :)
 
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