Kral Puncher Knight – air leak

[opschief]

Took in the above on trade / sight unseen. When received via UPS, it was obvious that it had been badly mis-represented with regards to both condition and function. Previous owner said “tough luck”… I got scammed~

I’m trying to make lemonade out of lemons and am slowly but surely making this gun right. Among other things mis-represented; prior owner stated “it holds air forever”. Obviously his and my interpretation of forever differs vastly. Gun arrived with charge of approx. 500 psi.

Charged up to 3,000 psi. Leaked down to just below 1000 psi in 15 minutes. Refilled, same thing again. Third time I did an audible test and located the approx location of the leak. I soaped the action and determined where the air is escaping from. See photo.

I’m shooting in the dark as I do not have, nor can I locate, an exploded parts diagram for this PCP. Does anyone have any idea of a reliable domestic parts source for Kral? Air Venturi seemed to be a logical choice but they have been less than helpful with regards to parts availability or repair estimates to date. Also, a link to an exploded schematic and parts identification would be of great help.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[L.Leon]

Reach out to @thammer, he might be able to help you.

 

[Guard9208]

Yes, i think @thammer should be able to help...

 

[JimNM]

Heya man, sorry you got the raw deal. I have some time inside the Knight/Nemesis platform. There are only a few places it can leak from and the gun is hard to hurt. Mine has survived my exploratory experiments.

The brass set screw in your photo is the first place to check. That is the burst disc cover. Mine worked itself loose before by being in the garage hot/cold cycle.

I have seen an exploded diagram on bangal kirkwood iirc. The other place is could be leaking from is the valve seat and or the valve pin. Those wear out after a few years.

Either way, remove the action by unscrewing the hex nut at the aft end of the trigger transfer bar. Remove the two set screws from the bottom surface. Those hold the valve into the action block. Remove the set screws all the way so they can't gouge the orings. The valve should come free from the action and allow access to the burst disc cover. Give it a good tighten and see if that helps hold the air.

 

[thammer]

If it's leaking at that area it's most likely the brass screw needs snugged up. Typical leak spot for Kral. Like mentioned above hot and cold cycling can cause enough movement to leak. The other cause could be the valve oring. The valve body screws in to the dropblock with an oring seal. Both are super easy repairs. Remove the stock (looks like you already did) loosen the two setscrews behind that brass screw. Remove the lock nut on the trigger linkage and the scope rail to breech screw then the entire bottle/valve assembly should pull out.

Here is a picture I snagged from a Facebook group showing the gun apart.

 

[rattletrap]

I have a Kral Mega Marine that has just started leaking. It's never been over filled and functioned flawlessly for about a year. Does anyone know the common failure points on these?

 

[JimNM]

The burst disk is made of copper, and it has a different COE Coefficient of Expansion than the metal tube. You need to tweak the set screw that holds it in place, occasionally. More often if your gun goes through heat/cold cycles like mine does in the in garage.