Kral Puncher Series Good and Bad

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Jammin22

Jammin22

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May 12, 2018
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In, United States
I wanted to wait to make this post until we got my Dads Puncher Knight sidelever. I 1st ordered one of the Ekinoks semi auto version. Very disappointed! Not packed very good. Had a nick out of the stock. It had 1000 psi air in it upon arrival. Filled it to 200bar like stated on receiver. Oh, it came with no manual. Cleaned the barrel and scoped it. It would double bump 2 shots and quit firing. It did this all the way down to 145bar. then it semi auto fine. Went ahead and "tried" like I state tried to sight in but had a 7" vertical stringing. Also the trigger was non adjustable and 10lb. pull. I actually got hand cramps. So, boxed it back up and sent back for a refund. Very disappointed!!

Now, my Dad got the Knight W sidelever. Packed the same way not very good. But stock looked good. His did come with a generic manual. Cleaned barrel only took 3 patches(like mine). Filled and scoped and sighted in. It liked 18gr JSB and Loved H&N Barracuda Match 5.52 21gr. Shoulders very well. Its not backyard friendly need to add a pickle. Chronied 18gr. JSB @ high power 914fps low setting 543fps, 16gr JSB 966fps on high, H&N Barracuda 21gr. 854fps on high. Trigger is supposed to be adjustable haven't messed with it yet but out of box it has a long 1st stage and a decent 2nd stage. Seemed to be smoothing out as we shot. Don't know shot count yet but I would guess around 50-60 per fill of 250bar 500cc cyl. Overall a nice pup for the money.


 
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To adjust the trigger (on the Puncher Breaker that I have...), you need to remove the stock. There is a long bar that runs from the trigger to the rear of the gun, it has a lock nut at the very end. Tighten that but up to reduce the first stage. To lighten the second stage there is a set screw that is recessed, near the teeter-totter piece that moves when you pull the trigger. Adjust until the gun won't stay cocked, then reverse about 1/2 turn for safety.



Make sure you DON'T have a magazine in the gun until you verify that the sear and safety are working correctly. Shoot'em good!
 
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Jammin22,

You'll probably hear a lot of mixed results about Kral Arms' Puncher series, 
but I for one am a Big fan! I loved my Puncher Breaker .22 so much that I actually got another one! 
Now I have a black on black silent as well as my original marine silent. Mine did snap a valve-stem, but, other than that, it rocks! 
To date, of over a handful of other rifles [bulpups] they are still some of my all time favorites!

I was so impressed with my first PB that I hit up KRALE's site, and looked to see what other models Kral had to offer.. 
Lots of cool looking guns, but, I was most interested in a bottle-gun.. 

Before the "Knight" was a thing, Kral offered them as the "Puncher NEMESIS". That's the model that I ordered and have.. 
I got the dual caliber setup: .22 cal and .25 cal. 

These guns come from the factory shooting HOT.
In .22 config, I tried some Crosman Premier 14.3 gr Hollow Points first.. Nope! Even on the lowest power setting, 
they sprayed all over like a shotgun / bird-shot pattern. lol
From there, I upped the pellet weights.. Next I went with JSB Diabolo 18 grains, and it really like them. A lot..
So I figured the heavier the better, and last, I went with some H&N Baracuda 21 grains.. Wow! It Loved those! 

Then in .25 cal config, all I've used have been JSb's 25 grains, and again, the rifle seemed to like them a Lot. 

Pellet on pellet action, and IMO, it was already really good on shot count!

As for the trigger - For me, the lighter the better, so, that's the first thing that I addressed.. 
As mentioned above, the stock will have to come off, so, make sure that there's no mag or pellet in the gun.. 
You'll want to be able to dry-fire it to test the different trigger adjustments til' you find the one that you like best. 

With the stock off, action out, and flipped up-side-down, you'll see that main-connecting-rod.. 
That connects the finger trigger to the rear trigger / sear setup.. It is adjustable by adding or taking up it's 'slack'.
Done by the nut on the back of the threaded section of the rod.. That will adjust the first-stage [trigger length]

For the trigger 'weight', if I remember correctly, there is a grub/set-screw near the sear section.. 
Your Knight should have come with some extra parts - and in there, there should be an allen wrench?
That wrench is for the trigger set-screw.. If yours didn't come with one, no biggie, that's all you'll need to use.. 
Going one direction will tighten the pull tension and the other direction will loosen it.. 
My trick - I go and go and go - cocking the gun with each few turns of the set-screw.. 
At a certain point, the gun will not cock.. You'll pull the lever back, and it won't engage - just spring forward again.. 
That's when the set-screw should be adjusted back a bit, cock again, keep checking until' it cocks and holds again.
Hit the trigger and fire each time also..
Eventually, you'll get to the 'sweet spot' to where the trigger is at it's easiest to pull, and the gun will still cock.

Now, that is also a point where the gun can be considered 'unsafe', and bumping the back of the action / stock 
can / will cause the gun to fire - To eliminate that issue, just cock the lever, and hit the back of the gun.. 
A good whack, or tap with a rubber mallet is a good idea.. If it goes off, just adjust the grub/set screw a bit more.. 
As soon as it seems safe, and doesn't fire - You are good to go. Stock back on and call it a day.

🙂👍 

Sam -

 
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I want to post an update on my Dads Kral. Within 2 weeks it created a leak. Instead of sending back, decided to repair it. Found the leak coming from a brass plug in the rear of valve block. Disassembled and found the brass plug was loose. Under it was a burst disc, I guess an overfill protection. I replaced the disc and tighten plug. Replaced tank o-ring. It has held for several days. Why can't we buy an air rifle that either works properly or not leak? 
 
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I also have 2 np03 & np02 both accurate but both had rough gritty triggers.
The sears and other various bits of the gun have rough edges that need smoothing and polishing off after that they are a lot smoother so it's worth doing if you want the best out of it
And that nasty tuning fork twang that resonates up to your head" but it can be cured.
Stick to the instructions above if messing with your trigger
For the price they cant be faulted..
 
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