Labradar V1 question

I’ve been using my LR for airgun and 22LR. Indeed it can seem finicky to pick up shots and there are days where it seems to collect data perfectly and days where it ignores almost everything.

The iOS app is the same - some days to plays well - other days I can’t use it and just run from its buttons on the device.

I have the microphone, JKL inertial trigger, and USB battery pack. The inertial trigger only works on centerfire and the airgun microphone works for unsuppressed / modestly suppressed air rifles.

I usually run my device in handgun velocity range and with Doppler radar triggering. Under 600fps or so requires the archery setting.

Take care with downrange velocities- they are useful but anything past 60y can be inaccurate.
Somethings wrong with your inertial trigger if it only works on centerfires, the second one I made works on my uragan compact .22 tuned to about 22 ft/lbs perfectly, never misses. The second one because you have to solder leads to the vibration switch, and if you don't get a good solder joint instantly, you get too much heat into the switch and damage or flat out ruin it. If making your own key is a very hot iron, lots of excess flux, mechanical fingers holding it in place, and it will make a good joint virtually instantly just brushing the tip of solder gun on the excess flux over the joint without damaging the switch from too much heat.

If using your Iphone, shut it down, restart, close everything you can that is active on a fresh boot, if you can, go into airplane mode to stop data and phone access and turn on the bluetooth, and turn off/disable screen saver/power saving features. There are lots of things on an active phone that demand attention, it just takes one hardware interrupt at the wrong time to mess with the low energy bluetooth connection to the labradar. I use an old android phone that has no service, I have stripped everything out of it, gone into the protected operating system and gutted it, it is just basically a functioning shell of android with BT active and all other radios have no software to run them and cause interrupts. Mine has never in years disconnected, even leaving it on overnight when testing ages ago, I could change settings while making coffee the next morning having left everything on all night. I also live in a virutally rf free zone.

I'm also a firm believer in never update any software if it is working unless there is some new feature I can't live without, and then I let everyone else be the guinee pigs on the new update for months before I'll go through it. I have never updated my app nor my labradar.

Your issue of it seems to work for you some days and not others using the doppler trigger is just a matter of SNR. If you are using it in the same place all the time it is just an aiming issue, if using in different locations it can be a combo of aiming and backscatter at different places messing with the SNR. I use mine only at home, it has never left my property since the day fedex delivered it. My short range is about as bad as you can get for radar use, my long range about 90 degrees to the left isn't much better. Aiming is critical when using in a horrible radar environment, and to aim it correctly you need to know where your actual beam center is. And then you need a perfectly repeatable way to aim it, in a really bad environment like mine, a two foot error in aim at 100 yards loses at least 7db of signal strength on the very first data point when projectile is first picked up. That is huge,, over double the energy lost by a small aiming error, I have no idea if it is that picky in a better environment than where I use it. I've seen a few tracks posted years ago when I got mine by other people, and I have seen some pretty miserable SNR's on there tracks, they don't have it aimed well. When i am aimed perfectly I get over a 41 db SNR on 22 projectiles when first picked up, I normally aim quickly and don't get that good but get about 37 db SNR on first data point. That's good enough at my range so I don't take the extra time aiming it as perfect as I can. You can't aim repeatably and accurately using the notch and straw, the clamshell is not symmetrical and the straw will never be pointing the same each time you put it on there.


Your comment on anything past 60 yards can be innaccurate made me chuckle. In a perfect environment, with a perfectly aimed labradar, it stands 0 chance of having good data on a .22 caliber projectile at 60 yards, the larger projectile the further you can get data. Lower power commercial units that cost over 12k dollars, 1000+ software, with a 1200+ dollar antenna are advertised as having a range under ideall conditions of about 70 yards on a 22 projectile. An innexpensive hobby radar stands no chance. On my range the "accurate enough" data when perfectly aimed ends at roughly 17- yards on a 22 projectile, but I have extremely severe backscatter on both my ranges. When looking at detailed tracks past 20 yards(just for giggles, I know it's garbage on my range), I routinely see two xonsecutive velocity readings .002 seconds apart with velecities over 10fps different, and sometimes it's the furthest one that is fastest. Subsonic 30 cal, PB, 1039 fps muzzle 11 fps extreme spread handloads, I have seen 1400 fps supersonic velocities at 100 yards jump out for just one data point, range is 110 yards long to target 112 yards to berm. Oh, on my range a 30 cal data is good to about 21+ yards vs the 17- on a 22 and my range is so bad on backscatter a flat base 45 acp data is only good to maybe 23 yards. Graph out the detailed tracks, as soon as the graph gets jaggy, stop paying attention to the data unless you have a massive data set, and are a good statistician,, as in it's your job and you have a masters degree in it. That is certainly not me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smitty911