Between the heat and work, I don't have unlimited time to setup a scope, so I came up with a quick and dirty method that get's you about 90-95% setup (depending on what class you are shooting) in about an hour. This is mostly for hunter class, my reasoning is at the end of the post.
You will need 3 or 4 field targets, preferably shot up. You will need 4 or 5 standing paper targets, preferably not shot up. You will need a tape capable of measuring 55 yards. You will need 2 blocks that your usual club puts targets on. We use pavers that are a little narrower than cinder blocks.
Anchor your tape in your shooting area. The shooting around needs to be about 7 yards deep, anchor the tape at the back of the area.
Run the tape out to 55 yards. Put a block standing up at 55 yards and put a target with a 1.5 inch kill zone on top of the block. Don't bother putting a string on the target, we don't have time for that. Put a paper target even with the field target.
Do the same at 45 yards.
Put a paper target at 25 yards (or whatever your zero is).
Put a field target and paper target at 20 yards. (This one is optional. If you don't have enough time or targets, this is the one to skip).
Put a field target and paper target at 15 yards. A half inch kill zone is preferred.
Get setup in the shooting box at the end of the tape and range the 15y, 20y, 45y and 55y targets. Mark your wheel. Get bracket info on the 55y and 45y bricks and kill zones. Write that info down.
Zero on the 25 yard paper target. Shoot the 15, 20, 45 and 55 yard paper targets and record your hold overs. If shooting a clicking class, write down your clicks.
Now move up a yard (that's why we leave the tape down and don't use a wheel or range finder). For hunter, range the 14 and 19 yard targets and get your hold overs. Click classes can decide if they want to do anything with the 44 and 54 yard targets.
Move up another yard and get info for the 13 and 18 yard targets. Do it again for the 12 and 17 yard targets. One more time for the 11 and 16 yard targets.
Now move the last time and get info, brackets and hold overs for the 10, 16, 20, 40 and 50 yard targets.
Pick up all your crap and leave.
This morning, I didn't fool with the 20-16 yard target, but in an hour I got a scope wheel set for 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 40, 45, 50 and 55 targets with bracket info for 40, 43, 45, 50, 53 and 55 yard targets and hold overs for all of those yardages. I will need to confirm 16, 17, 19, 30 and 35 yard hold overs at some point, but those aren't critical for my current setup. Given a few hours and a nice day, I will confirm all of the yardages and hold overs, but this gets me close enough to shoot a monthly match if I don't have time to do a full scope and dope setup. This would probably be ok for clicking classes if you use software to fill in the gaps, but honestly I probably wouldn't waste my time doing this for clicking. I would do two full sessions, 10-25 in one and 25 to 55 in another.
Anyway, hope this helps someone that might be new to this. Bear in mind that this is a quick and lazy setup method. The more time and effort you put into your scope wheel and holdovers, the better your results will be.
You will need 3 or 4 field targets, preferably shot up. You will need 4 or 5 standing paper targets, preferably not shot up. You will need a tape capable of measuring 55 yards. You will need 2 blocks that your usual club puts targets on. We use pavers that are a little narrower than cinder blocks.
Anchor your tape in your shooting area. The shooting around needs to be about 7 yards deep, anchor the tape at the back of the area.
Run the tape out to 55 yards. Put a block standing up at 55 yards and put a target with a 1.5 inch kill zone on top of the block. Don't bother putting a string on the target, we don't have time for that. Put a paper target even with the field target.
Do the same at 45 yards.
Put a paper target at 25 yards (or whatever your zero is).
Put a field target and paper target at 20 yards. (This one is optional. If you don't have enough time or targets, this is the one to skip).
Put a field target and paper target at 15 yards. A half inch kill zone is preferred.
Get setup in the shooting box at the end of the tape and range the 15y, 20y, 45y and 55y targets. Mark your wheel. Get bracket info on the 55y and 45y bricks and kill zones. Write that info down.
Zero on the 25 yard paper target. Shoot the 15, 20, 45 and 55 yard paper targets and record your hold overs. If shooting a clicking class, write down your clicks.
Now move up a yard (that's why we leave the tape down and don't use a wheel or range finder). For hunter, range the 14 and 19 yard targets and get your hold overs. Click classes can decide if they want to do anything with the 44 and 54 yard targets.
Move up another yard and get info for the 13 and 18 yard targets. Do it again for the 12 and 17 yard targets. One more time for the 11 and 16 yard targets.
Now move the last time and get info, brackets and hold overs for the 10, 16, 20, 40 and 50 yard targets.
Pick up all your crap and leave.
This morning, I didn't fool with the 20-16 yard target, but in an hour I got a scope wheel set for 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 40, 45, 50 and 55 targets with bracket info for 40, 43, 45, 50, 53 and 55 yard targets and hold overs for all of those yardages. I will need to confirm 16, 17, 19, 30 and 35 yard hold overs at some point, but those aren't critical for my current setup. Given a few hours and a nice day, I will confirm all of the yardages and hold overs, but this gets me close enough to shoot a monthly match if I don't have time to do a full scope and dope setup. This would probably be ok for clicking classes if you use software to fill in the gaps, but honestly I probably wouldn't waste my time doing this for clicking. I would do two full sessions, 10-25 in one and 25 to 55 in another.
Anyway, hope this helps someone that might be new to this. Bear in mind that this is a quick and lazy setup method. The more time and effort you put into your scope wheel and holdovers, the better your results will be.
