Leading in a new barrel

I've always used Crosman pellets to lead in a new barrel because they are cheaper than most others. I shoot a minimum of 300 pellets before I start testing pellets looking for that barrel's favorite. Would using a softer pellet like JSB do a better job of breaking the barrel in? Could I get away with shooting less pellets as the softer lead would lead in faster? 

Am I thinking this right or am I way off?
 
They say every gun is different. Barrels are like fingerprints really, with no two being alike. That being said, aside from leading in the barrel with so many shots, are there any other things that you may do prior to shooting in? In my experimenting, here's what I have found works well:

I like to micro polish the bores of my guns really well before I even get started shooting and tuning them in. This ensures that the machining marks or burrs are gone and the thing is smooth like glass and won't foul by grabbing and scraping lead off. I discovered that lubing slugs and pellets with pure silicone, and shooting them wet doesn't lead up the barrel, at all. (This is providing that the barrel is made with the proper twist rate for the caliber and projectile.). This only works well when care is taken like when bench shooting, as it can attract dirt while hunting which is bad on a bore.

I also found that pulling a tight dry patch through the bore on a string from the breech end once in a while keeps a check on potential leading, but doesn't make the bore too fresh where a half dozen shots are required to get it back to perfect POI again. Using a dozen or so silicon lubed but dry slugs while hunting doesn't seem to effect accuracy, and a few lubed slugs afterwards with a dry patch clears up any streaking. I use a bore scope a lot to see the progress of my experimenting and proof is in the pictures they say.

Everyone has there own way of doing things and this works for me. I hope that you find something in it useful for you.
 
I cleaned my new HFT set up , A RAW TM1000 with a bunch of pull through's and then bore paste to make sure that everything is as it should be , Then shoot 100 pellets through it , then put a scope on and then set about finding what pellet works best through it . Takes time but its worth it for sure . The barrel is sublime and works a treat , needs cleaning after every comp but that's fine because I love cleaning guns !!! I do that to all my Air guns and sees to work a treat . Some of my buddies just whack a scope on and then off they go ? I prefer to do it my way ?? 





Rog
 
I used to have an old bench rest buddy who, with regard to barrel break-in would say, "do it however you want, chances are, you'll be wrong anyway". With centerfire, I would clean after each of the first few shots, maybe 10, then go to every 2 or 3, keeping that up for 25 or 30 shots. I didn't want to shoot a lot of rounds, since those barrels didn't usually last but a season anyway. With air rifles, I just clean a new barrel and start shooting normally. Most of them need cleaning after a relatively few shots at first, then get more seasoned with longer intervals. I don't polish or use a bronze brush unless the barrel needs it. Some folks say a bore scope would indicate they all need it. May be, but if it's shooting to my satisfaction, I don't much care what a scope might indicate. I'm an old retired fart and I like to shoot, not clean, so I shoot, usually works out okay. During the last couple of years I've had two barrels that wouldn't shoot, and both were replaced under warranty. I gave each a single polishing session, but I don't think any amount of polishing would have brought either around, figured I paid enough to have a barrel that shoots, and the seller didn't disagree. 
 
All this talk of breaking in has me thinking. These barrels, both LW blanks and STX liners, are very cheap compared to a centerfire rifle barrel. Sure, they aren't exactly the same, but it makes me wonder if these aren't the "best" so to speak, and lapping would do them good just as much as a firearm barrel? In particular a fire lap set like David Tubb sells/swears by. Get any microscopic tool marks or imperfections cleaned up before leading in. Goodness knows jb bore paste has always done right for me, why not take that one step further?
 
In my Impact X .22, half a tin of CPHP's leave the choked end of the barrel PLATED in flakey lead deposits. I do not get that with JSB's.

I agree totally, a few shots are needed to recondition the barrel after cleaning, and a clean barrel is a more accurate barrel. I'm not convinced just pulling a snug patch does anything more than pull out loose debris. I use a nylon covered "Dewey" rod fitted with a jag (no brush needed) and push a patch from breech to muzzle. A deliberate push with some force is needed. The patch is encrusted with lead particles. I only have to do that twice.

When using JSB's it rarely needs a cleaning. I shoot them around 865fps.
 
In my Impact X .22, half a tin of CPHP's leave the choked end of the barrel PLATED in flakey lead deposits. I do not get that with JSB's.

I agree totally, a few shots are needed to recondition the barrel after cleaning, and a clean barrel is a more accurate barrel. I'm not convinced just pulling a snug patch does anything more than pull out loose debris. I use a nylon covered "Dewey" rod fitted with a jag (no brush needed) and push a patch from breech to muzzle. A deliberate push with some force is needed. The patch is encrusted with lead particles. I only have to do that twice.

When using JSB's it rarely needs a cleaning. I shoot them around 865fps.

I agree with you. Pull through cleaning is adequate for most barrels, with most pellets, shot at moderate velocity. A lot of folks are pushing soft pellets close to 1,000 fps, and they were designed for precision accuracy at speeds not much more than half that fast. All of which is exacerbated by the use of poly barrels. IMO, the recipe for great accuracy and minimum barrel maintenance is, a good cut rifled barrel and a velocity between 860-890 fps. I've also had good luck with the original FX solid ST barrel, not so much with the liners. 
 
300 pellets is excessive and not necessary? I had read somewhere 300 was a minimum that is why I have been using that number. 

I have no experience with JB Bore Paste and I have a few questions: 

Does one just pull this through from breech to muzzle like a cleaning? 

Is there an O-ring in the muzzle the JB could damage?

I'm not about to invest in a bore scope so, on average, how many pull throughs does it take?

What do you use afterwards to remove the excess JB?

The gun in question is a new HW100 BP-K. I cleaned the barrel with Goo Gone and shot 2 magazines through it so far. The magazine port is just over 3/8" at .400 and each time I had to use a dental pick to get the loop out.
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Unless you can remove the barrel from the action, or have complete access to it, like in a break barrel, using JB bore paste on a pull through will likely be a waste of time. For it to actually polish the bore you need a cleaning rod, preferable a nylon coated one, and a jag (not a slotted patch holder) and some proper sized patches. 

With a somewhat clean bore, you apply some JB bore paste to the patch and using a back and forth motion, you actually polish the bore. It may take as many as 10 patches worked several inches at a time to do the whole bore. Imagine polishing a piece of brass with some polishing compound. You don't just wipe it on as if you were drying dishes with a dish towel, you need to apply some friction.

You only need to do this one time, if you want to use the JB bore polish in the first place. It's not really 100% necessary. I have always been able to advance the jag/patch past the breech Oring on all the PCP's I've cleaned. 
 
In my Impact X .22, half a tin of CPHP's leave the choked end of the barrel PLATED in flakey lead deposits. I do not get that with JSB's.

I agree totally, a few shots are needed to recondition the barrel after cleaning, and a clean barrel is a more accurate barrel. I'm not convinced just pulling a snug patch does anything more than pull out loose debris. I use a nylon covered "Dewey" rod fitted with a jag (no brush needed) and push a patch from breech to muzzle. A deliberate push with some force is needed. The patch is encrusted with lead particles. I only have to do that twice.

When using JSB's it rarely needs a cleaning. I shoot them around 865fps.

I agree with you. Pull through cleaning is adequate for most barrels, with most pellets, shot at moderate velocity. A lot of folks are pushing soft pellets close to 1,000 fps, and they were designed for precision accuracy at speeds not much more than half that fast. All of which is exacerbated by the use of poly barrels. IMO, the recipe for great accuracy and minimum barrel maintenance is, a good cut rifled barrel and a velocity between 860-890 fps. I've also had good luck with the original FX solid ST barrel, not so much with the liners.

Wondering what and how the poly barrels exacerbate? 
 
Thought of leading in a barrel as a bad thing. Breaking in a springer with a tin of pellets, yes. 'Seasoning' a barrel with a number of pellets, yes... 

But leading generally occurs when that pellets are shot too fast, especially Premiers (supposedly due to the antimony content) and then accuracy suffers. The recommendations posted above work well regarding JB bore paste used sparingly. 

When I first saw the post, I thought you were referring to cutting a lead (e?) in on a barrel. I've used several methods for that and have a couple of bits for specific calibers. 



So it appears that you are referring to what I would term as 'seasoning' a barrel, or perhaps breaking in a gun (typically a springer where you are breaking in the mechanics of the gun)? Am I reading this correctly?

edit... I'm not trying to be the terminology police.. :) Just trying to make sure you get the correct information for the question you are asking.
 
If you're getting an inch at 48 yards, stop right there! Nice shooting.👍

On second thought... don't stop there, rather... lay in a good supply of your favorite pellets!!!



Yea I'm pretty stoked about it's initial accuracy. These groups are with 10.5g CPUMs. The CPHPs not so good. I have 16 different .177 pellets to try and more on order.


 
Interesting discussion as I am (hopefully) going to be going through this process in the near future.

With a new springer I would clean out the factory "grease" (gunk?) from the spring chamber and apply a light layer of good stuff; the barrel would get a through cleaning and then I would shoot a tin or two to break the rifle in. After the break in I would disassemble the rifle and clean/deburr/polish the whole thing before (sparingly) applying moly grease and all would be good to go. At < 500 fps barrels rarely needed to be cleaned and a pull-through once in a while was all it got.

Guess that I am in the same mode with PCPs with the initial cleaning, then around 100 pellets to settle things down, followed with a bit of spit & bit of polishing. I don't get serious about looking for the perfect pellet until I have put at least a tin through the rifle. Then it is a good cleaning, 10 -20 pellets for seasoning and on to some serious fun testing pellets. Don't know if it makes a difference but I prefer to season with the same brand (alloy) of pellets that I will be testing and will clean the barrel if switching to a different brand.

Saw a post about bore-scopes recently. Seems that a half decent one is not that expensive so I am thinking about investing in one. Might be useful to see if the barrel needs cleaning rather than assuming is does (or doesn't).