EDgun Lelya 2.0 Rising Velocity Questions

Last squirrel season I began noticing that I was missing shots that I shouldn’t miss. I’d suspected that something was awry with my .25 Edgun Lelya 2.0 i suspected a valve or reg issue. Consequently, I shelved her and it’s probably been 8 months to a year since I shot this rifle. Yesterday I cleaned the barrel and chronographed 4 shot strings. Only one string read every shot, but what is consistent is that the velocity rises with each shot. I’m thinking my reg is shot, but I’m unsure where to begin looking. Anyone else experience this? If so, what causes this?

Below are screen shots or the strings. Starting reservoir pressure was around 185 bar and I finished around 120 bar after 36 shots.

1st shot string
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2nd shot string
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3rd shot string
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4th shot string
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Even with these rising velocities, there groups were not too bad for quick shot strings off of shooting sticks.

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@Airgun-Revisions Im used to my unregulated guns doing the opposite. They start high and then drop. Sometimes the first 1-2 shots may rise a little before tapering off in velocity. This starting low and rising is very strange to me. These shots are supposed to be in the mid 800s.
You get this effect because at high pressure, the hammer barely opens the valve and as pressure drops valve opens more. You reached your expected speed right at the end, suggesting that your reg is set ~120bar.

The outer reg oring on these “classic” Edguns are notorious for this because they serve as the barrier between the tube and plenum. When you take the reg out they usually look fine but in reality, they have stretched just enough to leak. When storing these Edguns it’s best to shoot them down just below reg pressure to prevent constant stress on that oring.

There was someone else on here a few weeks ago with the same issue with a Leshiy Classic that had been sitting with a full tank.

You can actually make ‘em a bit more robust by adding a second slightly larger oring in front of the stock one, facing the tube side. That works even if you leave the original bad oring in place!
 
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I have too many guns so I had to refer to my notes. For some reason I believed it was the 1.5x5mm oring so I switched to a 90. I also replaced a 1.5x8mm with a 70. Gun has been fine for a while now. I don’t have anything against a Huma, been using them off and on since I got into PCP’s. But they are not immune to problems either. I like to stick with certain factory regs in certain guns if they don’t creep or are easy to adjust. Ed is on strike two. Strike three and it’s out.
 
So it looks like I don’t have a decent reg to put in my Lelya right now. I don’t have the right sized o-rings to rebuild my factory reg and the Huma reg I’ve had stowed in the packaging it came in for about a year, doesn’t seem to want to screw into the plenum. I can’t see where anything is cross threaded and I’ve never done a thing with either of these parts.
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This is as far as it screw into the plenum before it feels as if it’s catching something. I know better than to force it.
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I’m having a helluva run with problems right now. Only things I can think to do are to order o-rings and to contact Huma and see what we can do about this regulator set. There’s goes my hopes of hunting with this rifle this weekend. The factory reg is back in the reservoir.
 
Here is a thread with some of my experience with my Edgun R5M that shares many of the same components as your Lelya. I don't have any experience with a Huma regulator as I was able to polish and repair my factory reg with new o-rings and silicone lube.


Maybe something in here will help you, good luck with your repairs.

Feinwerk
 
FYI, when an adjustable regulator (e.g. Huma and others with a moveable seat) goes into bypass, causing the gun to behave like an unregulated one, the culprit is the O-ring on the adjuster. Adjuster being the brass dial on a Huma, for example.

This symptom will usually arise gradually and look like pressure creep, where you get an unpredictable first shot, because the O-ring doesn't fail all at once. Rather, it hardens and doesn't seal 100% and allows air to slowly migrate from the reservoir to the plenum. Or in some cases it might extrude and exhibit a similar behavior. Over time, it will worsen and may behave completely unregulated.

Contrast this with a failing O-ring on the regulator piston, which will show up as a loss of pressure.

By the way, the O-ring on the adjuster and the one on the small end (high pressure side) of the piston are subject to heat degradation from the refill cycle so you may want to consider using Viton when rebuilding. See here for recent discussion:
 
FYI, when an adjustable regulator (e.g. Huma and others with a moveable seat) goes into bypass, causing the gun to behave like an unregulated one, the culprit is the O-ring on the adjuster. Adjuster being the brass dial on a Huma, for example.

This symptom will usually arise gradually and look like pressure creep, where you get an unpredictable first shot, because the O-ring doesn't fail all at once. Rather, it hardens and doesn't seal 100% and allows air to slowly migrate from the reservoir to the plenum. Or in some cases it might extrude and exhibit a similar behavior. Over time, it will worsen and may behave completely unregulated.

Contrast this with a failing O-ring on the regulator piston, which will show up as a loss of pressure.

By the way, the O-ring on the adjuster and the one on the small end (high pressure side) of the piston are subject to heat degradation from the refill cycle so you may want to consider using Viton when rebuilding. See here for recent discussion:
IMG_3685.jpeg

@nervoustrig On the factory EDgun regulator, that would be oring number 3 in the schematic, correct? To be clear, do you suggest using Viton 90 durometer on the piston?
 
Yes #3 in both places.

Regarding hardness, the safe bet is to stick with the OEM value. The drawing doesn't say, though the fill pressure of 250 bar suggests a 90 durometer is reasonable. However my experience is that Viton in 90 durometer is more susceptible to tearing when installing than Buna-N or polyurethane so it may be helpful to drop the O-ring into hot water for 30 seconds to help with installation. Or if you can buy small quantities from a source like theoringstore, consider also getting some 70 durometer just in case.
 
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