EDgun Lelya 2.0 Rising Velocity Questions

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nervoustrig said:
Yes #3 in both places.

Regarding hardness, the safe bet is to stick with the OEM value. The drawing doesn't say, though the fill pressure of 250 bar suggests a 90 durometer is reasonable. However my experience is that Viton in 90 durometer is more susceptible to tearing when installing than Buna-N or polyurethane so it may be helpful to drop the O-ring into hot water for 30 seconds to help with installation. Or if you can buy small quantities from a source like theoringstore, consider also getting some 70 durometer just in case.
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@nervoustrig Thanks. I was thinking of 75 and 90. Would these be the correct o-rings?

1.5mm X 5mm V75 Fluorocarbon FKM O-Rings 75/80 Durometer Black [V1.50X005] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!

The O-Ring Store LLC 1.5mm X 5mm V75 Fluorocarbon FKM O-Rings 75/80 Durometer Black [V1.50X005] - Cross Section "CS" X Inside Diameter "ID" Chemical Resistant Fluorocarbon FKM O-Rings 75/80 Durometer: Chemical Resistant Fluorocarbon FKM O-Rings:, has excellent resistance to high temperatures...
www.theoringstore.com

It appears that they don’t have any 90 durometer Viton o-rings in the size that I need. They’re listed, but when you click the specific product it reads “there are no products to list in this category.”
 
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Since I’m ordering o-rings, anyone know the size of the square shaped o-rings on the two reservoir caps?
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Ezana4CE said:
So it looks like I don’t have a decent reg to put in my Lelya right now. I don’t have the right sized o-rings to rebuild my factory reg and the Huma reg I’ve had stowed in the packaging it came in for about a year, doesn’t seem to want to screw into the plenum. I can’t see where anything is cross threaded and I’ve never done a thing with either of these parts.
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This is as far as it screw into the plenum before it feels as if it’s catching something. I know better than to force it.
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I’m having a helluva run with problems right now. Only things I can think to do are to order o-rings and to contact Huma and see what we can do about this regulator set. There’s goes my hopes of hunting with this rifle this weekend. The factory reg is back in the reservoir.
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After emailing Huma Air about my reg/plenum issue pictured in the above quoted post, here is their response:

“…I thought we had all of them pinned down. But unfortunately yours has sneaked past.
We have had a batch of plenums where the tip of the lathe bit broke and threads are undersized.”

Thankfully Huma Air has taken care of me when I’ve had issues in the past. I should be receiving a plenum that fits. Hopefully it arrives this week. I also have o-rings on order. I’ll update the post once my orders arrive.
 
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weevil said:
I suggest moving the Huma reg outer oring onto the Edgun reg.
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@weevil I’m not sure the orings on the outer body of the regs are the same size. I’d like to get one of those tapered plastic cylinders that can be used to size orings. Although I’m not sure how well they work on minute sized orings.

@Feinwerk I must have had a brain fart. I scrolled down and saw that part of the schematic after you posted those photos. For some reason the 3x25 orings on my rifle’s reservoir endcaps appear flat. I’ll likely be replacing them shortly. Thanks for your help.
 
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nervoustrig said:
Just FYI, the appearance of flat or square is usually just a result of compression set. The material having been squeezed by extreme pressure for a long time.
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Some possible solutions to consider for o-rings experiencing compression set per Parker Handbook:


The following suggestions may improve the rate of compression set:


1. Use “Low Compression Set” O-ring material whenever possible.

2. Select O-ring material compatible for the intended service conditions (a material with higher temperature capability or greater chemical resistance).

(Possibly swapping to Viton may help)

3. Reduce system operating temperature.

4. Check frictional heat build-up at seal interface and reduce if excessive.

(Ensure good surface quality in the groove and the bore the o-ring rides)

5. Verify groove dimensions are consistent with recommended Parker practices

(Use an oring calculator to determine proper dimensions after measuring your groove)

-Matt
 
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O-rings arrived. Rainy evening activities.
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Factory reg rebuild. After removing the reg from the reservoir, I unscrewed the reg from the plenum. Then I unscrewed the two halves of the regulator.
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I wiped the Bellville washers clean as I could with a paper towel and microfiber cloth. Then lubricated them with pure silicone grease. Next I reoriented the Bellville washer by pairs in a clamshell pattern ()()(), stacked them, and slid them back over the piston.
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Next I pushed the piston back down into the high pressure side of the regulator.

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After screwing the two halves of the regulator together, I removed the o-rings on the reg body, cleaned the grooves with a q-tip, lubed the new o-rings with silicone grease and replaced them. I did the same with o-rings on the valve body and fill port ends. These 4 o-rings are all the same size.
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Next I screwed plenum onto the reg.
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Then I screwed the plenum into the valve body housing and took a decent amount of pure silicone grease and applied it to the threads inside of the reservoir tube. I then replaced the reg and valve body housing.
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For some reason this duplicate photo popped up down here and I can’t figure out how to remove it. If I delete it in an edit, it reappears in the post
IMG_3761.jpeg
 
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nervoustrig said:
You can use a conventional oil such as 30W oil or automatic transmission fluid. The Belleville chamber is not exposed to high pressure air.

For example, just wet your thumb and forefinger and rub each one as you stack it onto the piston.
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@nervoustrig I ended up doing what Brian said towards the end of the rebuild video suggesting that we use synthetic Super Lube or silicone grease. He made a comment instructing us not to use petroleum based products. Do you think silicone grease is inadequate?

I was also confused on how to access the o-ring inside of the high-pressure side of the reg.
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His advice to avoid hydrocarbons is conservative, given it is difficult to avoid getting at least a trace amount on the ends of the piston. But also contradictory because Super Lube synthetic grease is highly combustible. It burns like Sterno...way more combustible than 30W oil or automatic transmission fluid.

Whereas silicone grease provides no useful lubricating properties to metal-on-metal interfaces like the Belleville stack. Quite literally may as well leave them dry if the only thing available is silicone. And that would be okay because there isn't much friction at play here.
 
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nervoustrig said:
Looks like you use a hex key to remove item #8 (stopper) and then item #7 (nozzle).
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@nervoustrig I thought about it and decided that I didn’t want to bother it because I don’t completely understand how this reg works and I don’t have a reg tester for the factory regulator in the event that I change the setting. Thanks again for your input.
 
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