This mainly means to me the lifetime of an air rifle once sighted in to zero.
I have underlever, sidlelever, and break barrels all single shot.
I have decided for longevity the air rifles I own are capable of more shooting than I do: They will outlast me.
Here are my underlevers, sidelevers, and break barrels that I have collected over the years and all still work to this day:
1. Theoben .25 Eliminator
2. Beeman R9 .177
3. HW80K .22 Long Range Hunter
4. HW80 .177
5. HW80 .20
6. HW80 .25
7. HW98 .20
8. HW98 .177
9. HW98 .25
10. HW95L .25
11. HW95 .177
12. HW95L .22
13. HW57 .177
14. HW97K-T .20
15. HW50S .20 Scoped
16. HW50S .20 unscoped
17. HW35E .22 Blue
18. HW35E .22 Silver
19. HW35E .177 Blue
20. HW35E .177 Silver
21. HW30 .177
22. FWB Sport .177
23. D54 .20 Lothar Walther Connecticut Custom Airguns built by Hector Medina of Dianawerk
Notes:
The HW57 I would never recommend to anyone whether beginning or professional shooter of air rifles. The only reason the .177 is still working instead of the .22 I have (broken) is it outlasted multiple "misfires" without breaking when the push down pellet slider loader didn't go in all the way or was forgotten by a scope not being obstructed by the pop up pellet loader in the intricate mechanics of levers in the machine. This model will only frustrate anyone who knows how to work a simple break barrel which can and will shoot straighter than the straight barrelled HW57.
The HW97K-T I would not recommend to anyone unless they intend to shoot targets at a rest or bench with sandbags appropriately placed. Offhand it is not nearly as easy as the HW98 or HW95 or HW95L or D54.
The FWB Sport .177 is a "new" machine not to be mixed with the old 124 series in the 80s; it is high velocity high powered and CAN be accurate once you get used to the trigger, which is very very touchy to master.
The HW80s are all great powerhouse rifles with accuracy and a good scope mounted in ZERO RECOIL Dianawerk Mounts and Rings (no one else seems to make a recoilless scope mount worthy of use around these rifles).
All HW95, HW95L, HW98s are the "best buy" (to me) for ALL pellet rifle shooting whether target or field target or hunting used withing their maximum effective ranges (45 yards they can do anything and everything).
The HW35Es are "simpler" rifles from way back outfitted in Walnut instead of Beech. Their open sights will hit consistently as far as your eyes can take them; but if you mount scopes on HW35Es you may find the bore is out of line to properly center and sight a scope to its own advantage.
Out of 4 HW35Es that I have purchased and kept only ONE shoots straight with a Leupold 3-9X 33mm scope meant for air rifles. That'd be the OLDEST HW35E I have manufactured well before the newer ones I got. My outcome judgment is the HW35E doesn't need a scope to shoot "further" when an HW50S .20 can do A LOT BETTER using scopes or regular sights. I shoot the 35E and the HW50 side by side and the Walnut heavy 35E isn't as light and dynamic as the new HW50S .20 sold by AOA starting a year ago and then selling out. Too bad. That rifle is better than either .177 or .22 in the same model. My idea is the newer .20 barrels for the HW50S (instead of the regular .177 and .22) are drilled tighter and are indeed MORE accurate than the old .177 or .22 made in the HW50S.
The HW30 .177 I bought used and already vortexed by an avid airgunner who threw it in a larger deal with more rifles to "sweeten" the ticket for me to give up a Theoben Rapid PCP. It is the best "R7" or HW30 I've ever owned even though I've been through a number of R7s and HW30s. Buying a modified air rifle like the HW30 .177 Vortexed was easy for me because when I held the rifle I knew it was gonna be excellent; and the old internal top hat and original spring were given to me as well.
The D54 .20 Custom made by CCA and Hector is a sidelever and it is extremely powerful and accurate. My thought that with so much power and the way Diana has the fat cylinder holding the piston with a beartrap seemed like it would "wear" away faster than a break barrel; but it keeps on digesting Heavy .20 JSB Exacts to send them out over a hundred yards for grouping accuracy.
I ordered another CCA from Hector in D54 .20 because I want this second rifle to be dedicated to regular .20 JSB Exacts like his own rifle he had me use.
Final Observation about all types:
I ordered the D54 from Hector in .20 again to make sure I have another of this rifle. It is high performance and the worry I had was wearing it out with heavies at closer ranges when it is ready to kill at 100 yards.
The new .20 with regular JSB Exact .20s will "fill in" the times I go out on the back porch to slam those 25-35 yard reactive targets!
Now I have to ask him what number this new rifle is going to be because the one I have already is 27 out of 30 with fewer Lothar Walther .20 barrels left (30 barrels were drilled .20 by L-W to fit into the D54 after the D54 had its .22 or .177 barrel REMOVED.
Secondly, Hector had proven the .20 was the best caliber for the power unit the D54 has. And with recoilless action, the D54 .20 can do and last more consistently than all other types I have.
I am not saying others wear out faster or something. I just know when I shoot it it never misses unless I miss.
Kindly,
I have underlever, sidlelever, and break barrels all single shot.
I have decided for longevity the air rifles I own are capable of more shooting than I do: They will outlast me.
Here are my underlevers, sidelevers, and break barrels that I have collected over the years and all still work to this day:
1. Theoben .25 Eliminator
2. Beeman R9 .177
3. HW80K .22 Long Range Hunter
4. HW80 .177
5. HW80 .20
6. HW80 .25
7. HW98 .20
8. HW98 .177
9. HW98 .25
10. HW95L .25
11. HW95 .177
12. HW95L .22
13. HW57 .177
14. HW97K-T .20
15. HW50S .20 Scoped
16. HW50S .20 unscoped
17. HW35E .22 Blue
18. HW35E .22 Silver
19. HW35E .177 Blue
20. HW35E .177 Silver
21. HW30 .177
22. FWB Sport .177
23. D54 .20 Lothar Walther Connecticut Custom Airguns built by Hector Medina of Dianawerk
Notes:
The HW57 I would never recommend to anyone whether beginning or professional shooter of air rifles. The only reason the .177 is still working instead of the .22 I have (broken) is it outlasted multiple "misfires" without breaking when the push down pellet slider loader didn't go in all the way or was forgotten by a scope not being obstructed by the pop up pellet loader in the intricate mechanics of levers in the machine. This model will only frustrate anyone who knows how to work a simple break barrel which can and will shoot straighter than the straight barrelled HW57.
The HW97K-T I would not recommend to anyone unless they intend to shoot targets at a rest or bench with sandbags appropriately placed. Offhand it is not nearly as easy as the HW98 or HW95 or HW95L or D54.
The FWB Sport .177 is a "new" machine not to be mixed with the old 124 series in the 80s; it is high velocity high powered and CAN be accurate once you get used to the trigger, which is very very touchy to master.
The HW80s are all great powerhouse rifles with accuracy and a good scope mounted in ZERO RECOIL Dianawerk Mounts and Rings (no one else seems to make a recoilless scope mount worthy of use around these rifles).
All HW95, HW95L, HW98s are the "best buy" (to me) for ALL pellet rifle shooting whether target or field target or hunting used withing their maximum effective ranges (45 yards they can do anything and everything).
The HW35Es are "simpler" rifles from way back outfitted in Walnut instead of Beech. Their open sights will hit consistently as far as your eyes can take them; but if you mount scopes on HW35Es you may find the bore is out of line to properly center and sight a scope to its own advantage.
Out of 4 HW35Es that I have purchased and kept only ONE shoots straight with a Leupold 3-9X 33mm scope meant for air rifles. That'd be the OLDEST HW35E I have manufactured well before the newer ones I got. My outcome judgment is the HW35E doesn't need a scope to shoot "further" when an HW50S .20 can do A LOT BETTER using scopes or regular sights. I shoot the 35E and the HW50 side by side and the Walnut heavy 35E isn't as light and dynamic as the new HW50S .20 sold by AOA starting a year ago and then selling out. Too bad. That rifle is better than either .177 or .22 in the same model. My idea is the newer .20 barrels for the HW50S (instead of the regular .177 and .22) are drilled tighter and are indeed MORE accurate than the old .177 or .22 made in the HW50S.
The HW30 .177 I bought used and already vortexed by an avid airgunner who threw it in a larger deal with more rifles to "sweeten" the ticket for me to give up a Theoben Rapid PCP. It is the best "R7" or HW30 I've ever owned even though I've been through a number of R7s and HW30s. Buying a modified air rifle like the HW30 .177 Vortexed was easy for me because when I held the rifle I knew it was gonna be excellent; and the old internal top hat and original spring were given to me as well.
The D54 .20 Custom made by CCA and Hector is a sidelever and it is extremely powerful and accurate. My thought that with so much power and the way Diana has the fat cylinder holding the piston with a beartrap seemed like it would "wear" away faster than a break barrel; but it keeps on digesting Heavy .20 JSB Exacts to send them out over a hundred yards for grouping accuracy.
I ordered another CCA from Hector in D54 .20 because I want this second rifle to be dedicated to regular .20 JSB Exacts like his own rifle he had me use.
Final Observation about all types:
I ordered the D54 from Hector in .20 again to make sure I have another of this rifle. It is high performance and the worry I had was wearing it out with heavies at closer ranges when it is ready to kill at 100 yards.
The new .20 with regular JSB Exact .20s will "fill in" the times I go out on the back porch to slam those 25-35 yard reactive targets!
Now I have to ask him what number this new rifle is going to be because the one I have already is 27 out of 30 with fewer Lothar Walther .20 barrels left (30 barrels were drilled .20 by L-W to fit into the D54 after the D54 had its .22 or .177 barrel REMOVED.
Secondly, Hector had proven the .20 was the best caliber for the power unit the D54 has. And with recoilless action, the D54 .20 can do and last more consistently than all other types I have.
I am not saying others wear out faster or something. I just know when I shoot it it never misses unless I miss.
Kindly,