Looking for honest opinions about fx dreamline

If you are open to alternatives I would make my combo this way:

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The Dreamline is an excellent rifle. Very accurate, less design complexity vs. other FX rifles.

Are you absolutely set on .25 caliber?
Will you shoot pellets only or are you considering slugs?

Some thoughts:

The air tubes are longer on the .25 & .30 Dreamlines vs. the .22 and .177.

This makes it “easy” to add a .30 to your .25, but more difficult to add a 500mm .22 or .177 - if you intend to use a moderator.

Will you be hand pumping or using a compressor? If .25 caliber, you will want a compressor - have you factored into your budget?

What is your intended target distance(s) at your club? If 75 yards and less, you might want to consider .22 for higher shot count with tube…

Will you only shoot at your club or also in your yard? Is noise suppression (moderator) required for either club or yard?

If Utah is “building” your rifle, you could get the longer tube .25 rifle but have them install a 600mm .22 liner instead of the .25. Then you could shoot .22 25g MRDs for 75 yards+ and still be able to detune to shoot 15.89s very efficiently at shorter distances.

I have all calibers… .177 .22 .25 and .30. Just my opinion but I think .22 is the most “flexible” caliber - with more pellet choices and better air efficiency than .25.

-Ed

I'm set on .25 cal and will be shooting pellets (no slugs or higher than .25 cal allowed at the monthly air rifle bench rest I compete in).

I have a Nomad II compressor (I have 3 other PCP rifles).

The club bench rest comp distance is 50 yards, but once in a while I'll go out to 100 yards.

I have the DonnyFL FatBoy 2.0 and a DonnyFL Tatsu for back yard plinking ... at the club not needed.

Thank you for the input! I really appreciate it.

--HDMurex
 
I'm happy with my DreamLine Lite .30
Only thing I can really say is it does NOT out shoot some of the Evanix RainStorm .30's I've had.
Yes it has matched the RainStorms but not better in anyway except parts and it's adjustable power settings.
Even the adjustable power settings don't make it better. Just another way to screw up what was a good Gun.
Now the StreamLine was my introduction to FX and that was a good gun!
 
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IMHO, the gun is too good for that optic. 24X is overkill and the higher the magnification on a budget optic, the more you will notice the failings. I would suggest moving up in quality and down in mag. Something like the element helix 4-16 FFP.

Quick question: I'm looking at the optic you recommended but I really don't have a clue what the different versions mean/which I would want. APR-1C-MOA, APR-1C-MRAD, APR-2D-MOA, APR-2D-MRAD ... if you have a moment could you maybe give me a tl;dr?

--HDMurex
 
Quick question: I'm looking at the optic you recommended but I really don't have a clue what the different versions mean/which I would want. APR-1C-MOA, APR-1C-MRAD, APR-2D-MOA, APR-2D-MRAD ... if you have a moment could you maybe give me a tl;dr?
https://athlonoptics.com/product-category/rifle-scopes/athlon-optics-rifle-scopes-talos/ Other than MOA and MRAD, yes, the reticle names are very confusing. Look at the various models, and you will be able to see the different reticles.
 
I just bought a Dreamtac from the classifieds that came with an extra barrel and tank. Then I found enough parts on the classifieds to build out the extra barrel and tank. Now I will have 2 dreamtacs, one .22 with 220cc tank and one .177 with standard short tube. Both built out for woods walking and lightweight. Actually very easy to tune. Found 110-120 bar to be the sweetspot on reg and turned the hammer spring up to the point of max velocity. Then adjusted the hammer spring adjuster back down to get 95% of max speed. Usually around C/D or 3/2. I am going to drop a couple of hojimoto's gauntlet baffles in the end when I get them turned down for the skinny shroud. Nice little shooters for sure. Not as compact of a receiver as I thought it would be.
 
Quick question: I'm looking at the optic you recommended but I really don't have a clue what the different versions mean/which I would want. APR-1C-MOA, APR-1C-MRAD, APR-2D-MOA, APR-2D-MRAD ... if you have a moment could you maybe give me a tl;dr?

--HDMurex
Moa/Mrad are the us/metric units for the reticle and 1C is clean crosshair whereas 1D (meaning dirty) is a Christmas tree reticle with 2D holdovers. Just google the terms for reticle explanations and pics. I use the 2D moa.
 
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