Loose stock screw HW98

[Trampus99]

I’m haveing a heck of a time keeping my front stock screws tight on my HW98. I have put blue loc title on them twice now and let it sit overnight and they still loosen about 1/4-1/2 turn within 20-30ish shots causing POI to go usually high right if I remember right.
They have a washer and star ring on them from factory I’m thinking about trying a split lock washer?
Any advice?
Thanks

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

Use lacquer thinner and clean both male and female threads. Then use the blue Loctite. They will not come loose. Warning. Do not use to much Loctite. Just a tiny drop.

 

[Trampus99]

I havnt cleaned them, thanks I will try that.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

Blue is medium and for assembly / dissemble and stays pliable
Use blue all you want i give a good dab on my stuff that needs it / coat the thteads. Its the red you just need a small dab it sets firm / hard where the blue dont. Sometimes blue wount hold and you may need to upp it to red

Red or blue, we’ve got the right threadlocker for you!

New to threadlockers? Everything you need to know about types, application and removal.

www.loctiteproducts.com

 

[Struckat]

It can take a while for the wood to settle in.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

It can’t take a while for the wood to settle in.

Some claim you can use super glue or nail polish and treat the screw hole to harden the wood where the screw head lands.. ( ????). Ive never done it but its a idea.

 

[Struckat]

I think it was about 4 tins or so before they stayed en it was a no concern. I had it in and out of the stock a bunch. Torque em once, check after a few and forget.

Maybe I missed that cause I bought a new stock for Christmas. I haven’t shot it enough since then, so I am still in the torque cycle.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

If i never scope never a loose screw / no loctite , mount a scope grab the screwdriver. Lol. Luckly i rarely scope anything..

 

[Slingworks]

Try a different external lock washer. maybe yours isn't biting in very well. You could also try flipping it over. I don't think a split lock washer would work to any satisfaction. They tend to be thicker most of the time as well.

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

I install brass cups that I make to fill the holes on the forearm. Those star washers can ruin the stock if not carful to get them back into their original impressions every time. If you want to use the star washers I would suggest a tiny bit of JBWeld on them and carefully glue them in the original impressions.

 

[jccams]

I do the superglue treatment to the wood and put a thin flat washer underneath the star washer, torque to 20in/lbs and check periodically, no lock tite yet.

I’d do the brass screw cups like BOG if I had the skill and equipment.

 

[CharlieF]

I have the same issue with my HW 90. Great suggestions here.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

I do the superglue treatment to the wood and put a thin flat washer underneath the star washer, torque to 20in/lbs and check periodically, no lock tite yet.

I’d do the brass screw cups like BOG if I had the skill and equipment.

Ya, i also glued a thin brass,copper flat washer in as buffer/ hard point in the stock screw holes ,. It also works using steel in synthetic stock screw holes if they start to look wallered .

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

I'm assuming the flat washer lies under the star washer. The star washers directly on the
wood are not a good thing IMHO. You really can't get the screws tight enough and you'll
just end up digging into the wood. You could also try Vibra-Tite VC-3 as I have found it
to work better than Loctite.

 

[Mycapt65]

My take is.

Don't continually over tighten the screws because you'll compress the wood into the stock hanger bracket. This ruins the stock. Ask me how I know. The Weihrauch spec for the front stock screws is 22 inlbs. I'd stay with 20 because one of the screw holes on my new 95 Luxus stock crushed at 22inlbs.

Since wood is compressible it normally will keep compressing to a point. Even when properly torqued. Eventually the wood should stop compressing. I'll explain a fix in a minute. Your stock screw washers should be installed in this order wood>flat>star>screw head.

Washer order is important. As mentioned the star washer will eat into the stock. You can Krazy glue the flat washer in the stock if you like. Use a thin CA (Krazy glue) from a hobby store and it will soak into the wood and harden it. It may take several applications before it saturates the stock. This also secures the flat washer and gives a fixed point for the star washer to grab. The star washer isn't effective when it locks one side to a spinning washer. Gluing it fixes that. No cups really needed.

As mentioned earlier you must degrease both screw and hole. I use denatured alcohol. Be careful with the CA and denatured alcohol as both will mar the stock finish.

By final assembly all screws and holes are cleaned. Red Locktite 262 is added to the first 4 threads and torqued to these specs. Front stock screws 20 inlbs, big trigger guard 44 inlbs and rear trigger guard 15 inlbs. Then let the gun sit overnight so the Loctite cures.

Don't sweat the Red Loctite label. It will dissemble with proper hand tools and techniques. I've been using the stuff professionally since 1985.

This is what's worked for me. YMMV
Ron

 

[JP806TX]

I’m haveing a heck of a time keeping my front stock screws tight on my HW98. I have put blue loc title on them twice now and let it sit overnight and they still loosen about 1/4-1/2 turn within 20-30ish shots causing POI to go usually high right if I remember right.
They have a washer and star ring on them from factory I’m thinking about trying a split lock washer?
Any advice?
Thanks

All the above are great suggestions. Especially post #15.

Here's a new line of thinking, recoil and stock screws
Is your gun new? Do you have Chrono data? is the fps fairly stable? (if new and chrono data unstable...try cleaning the compression and piston/piston seal of excessive lube ...check seals for damage. Breech and piston seals)

Pellet may also affect spring recoil...try a lower or higher pellet weight. (assuming no change in accuracy)

If the gun is not new and is broken in and you have stable fps.
Is your gun full power and is it tuned? If not, think about having it tuned to sub-12 FPE. At worse, it'll make the gun more pleasant to shoot. (keep the OEM spring and guide in case you want to revert).

The reasoning behind a "stable" recoiling spring (tight fitting spring and spring guide and proper seals) is that the recoil is fairly linear. Less multi-directional recoil/harmonic...less forces on working the stock screws loose. ....unless the holes for your stocks screw has been "oval" ...then that's another issue.

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

I make brass bushings as I stated. Then polish/blue a Allen flat head. Degrease as stated. Blue Loctite. Just a drop. Again as stated, Do Not Over Tighten. Just snug. I like the brass bushing because more surface is in contact to the wood. They never loosen up. Easy to make but can be purchased on other sights.

 

[Mycapt65]

I make brass bushings as I stated. Then polish/blue a Allen flat head. Degrease as stated. Blue Loctite. Just a drop. Again as stated, Do Not Over Tighten. Just snug. I like the brass bushing because more surface is in contact to the wood. They never loosen up. Easy to make but can be purchased on other sights.View attachment 350303

Very nice job on those BOG. If they all came out that nice I'd be inclined to use them as well. I have the AoA set and they need to have too much wood removed to fit flush. When I finally get moved and my shop set up I'll get a lathe and make my own. Hopefully they come out half as good as yours.
Be well
Ron

 

[keesbo]

The best solution is to get wrid of the springwasher and place a counter nut on the backside. No need to use loctite or anything else.
Easy to remove and never lose screws anymore.

I will place a picture later.

 

[MOSOSODBOB]

Torque Spec And Stock Screw Modification Questions:

Same problem set, but different brand / model gun… I finally got around to shooting my new to me vintage RWS54. I had a few different style of pellets to shoot and “test”. I was particularly not happy with my brand new recently purchased RWS pellets. A fellow club member had earlier given me a partial tin of his JBS pellets (177 cal, 8.44 gr) and the gun shot it really well and used it to get my scope dialed in and to validate zero at different distances. I then tried my RWS sample pack pellets and groups were all over the place… the witness marks on the scope base and rings were unchanged. No movements there. Realized I read someone’s posting to check stock screws. Yep… loose… like way loose. Gun rattling in the stock loose.

With only my Leatherman available, I got it somewhere back to just tight. Shot a few more groups with the “good” JSB pellets…then ran out…then went home to do proper maintenance and “repairs”. i had lost confidence with the RWSs… will shoot them later.

So… anyone know if I can swap out the Phillips heads screws/bolts? i have a calibrated torque wrench and will have better control with a hex or torx system than the cross head. Lastly, what should be the torque spec for these wood stocks and the proper order to tighten? Same questions for a HW35 and AA TX200.

TIA