Loose stock screw HW98

Thanks for your insightful comments … my 35+ year old Weihrauch HW35 shot the East German pellets from that same time frame really well… even tho mal-formed and dented… also the RWS R10 from around 20 years ago as equally well… when I tried the recently purchased RWS pellets… they shot like crapola…I will pay more attention to the skirts now… Seems counterintuitive given how “well” the skirts of the new RWS sealed up the breech when compared to the DDR pellets… again.. learning.
The classic Gerald Cardew book, The Airgun from Trigger to Target (or its first edition, The Airgun from Trigger to Muzzle) is devoted to technical analysis of what happens inside spring-piston airguns, and has a fascinating amount of info on pellet fit. IMHO this is quite important but not much discussed these days.

A gun that was possibly designed with Cardew's comments in mind is the old Webley Vulcan and its relatives (C1 Carbine, etc.), which have a long tapered throat at the breech that's very tolerant of different pellets. Those tend to like the classic RWS "big skirt" designs (Hobby, Meisterkugeln, Superdome, Superpoint, Super H-Point), but I've found guns with a short, sharp-edged breech chamfer like HW definitely go for smaller skirts such as the JSB Exact, etc.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: MOSOSODBOB
Who would be able to source these upgraded screws? Also size (length) thd pitch?
Threads will be the same just a better quality. Threads on screws can be had in 3 classes, 1, 2, and 3...a class 1 is approx a 60% full thread and a class 2 is about 75% full thread and a class 3 is about 85% full thread. Class 3 are difficult to find but most industrial quality threads are class 2. Cheap mass produced replacement screws are class one. Take your factory screws to any fastenal or other industrial fastener supply and they can match your screws with a better quality threaded screw. If my memory is right I think they are either 5 or 6 mm threads. Been a while since I replaced any...
 
  • Like
Reactions: MOSOSODBOB
Some claim you can use super glue or nail polish and treat the screw hole to harden the wood where the screw head lands.. ( ????). Ive never done it but its a idea.
I've done the superglue on both my Ruger and my Wiehrauch both would not stay tight...neither have moved since I used the superglue/blue loctite method.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AirShot
The classic Gerald Cardew book, The Airgun from Trigger to Target (or its first edition, The Airgun from Trigger to Muzzle) is devoted to technical analysis of what happens inside spring-piston airguns, and has a fascinating amount of info on pellet fit. IMHO this is quite important but not much discussed these days.

A gun that was possibly designed with Cardew's comments in mind is the old Webley Vulcan and its relatives (C1 Carbine, etc.), which have a long tapered throat at the breech that's very tolerant of different pellets. Those tend to like the classic RWS "big skirt" designs (Hobby, Meisterkugeln, Superdome, Superpoint, Super H-Point), but I've found guns with a short, sharp-edged breech chamfer like HW definitely go for smaller skirts such as the JSB Exact, etc.
awesome book for info... a used copy in hard paper copy is expensive... but found a free pdf copy searching the internet...unfortunately it was done using my phone and I can't retrieve the link to share here...
 
Had exactly the same problem of constantly loosening stock screws when I bought my HW98 new 6 months ago. Tried the blue loctite several times and each time it worked for a few days before the stock screws and barrel weight loosened. I remembered an old trick that my Grandad used to do and had nothing to lose. Cut a sliver of paper from an envelope, same length as the threads and just sufficient to roll it once around the screw thread. Rolled it and inserted it into the hole then inserted and tightened the screws / weight. Four and half months and several tins of pellets later, no loosening or annoying POI shifts. I guess the older generation can still teach us a thing or two !
 
Had exactly the same problem of constantly loosening stock screws when I bought my HW98 new 6 months ago. Tried the blue loctite several times and each time it worked for a few days before the stock screws and barrel weight loosened. I remembered an old trick that my Grandad used to do and had nothing to lose. Cut a sliver of paper from an envelope, same length as the threads and just sufficient to roll it once around the screw thread. Rolled it and inserted it into the hole then inserted and tightened the screws / weight. Four and half months and several tins of pellets later, no loosening or annoying POI shifts. I guess the older generation can still teach us a thing or two !
That shows how poorly the class one threads are on those screws !! I always replace the screws with quality class two threads on my screws. Class 1 threads are only 60% full threads where class 2 are over 75% full threads which give a better bite, closer tolerances hold better, more resistance to vibration!! Your Grandpa was a smart mechanic !!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bear-of-Grayling
Lock nut is a single nut, jamb nuts are a pair of skinny nuts made to jamb together, dont mean to butt in, but 50 years in the machinest/ toolmaker trade makes me anal about correct terms.
?? I'm an old pharmacist, and I have known what a jamb nut was, for well over 60 years.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thumper
That shows how poorly the class one threads are on those screws !! I always replace the screws with quality class two threads on my screws. Class 1 threads are only 60% full threads where class 2 are over 75% full threads which give a better bite, closer tolerances hold better, more resistance to vibration!! Your Grandpa was a smart mechanic !!
You keep saying you buy these Class 2 metric screws, but they don't exist.

Metric threads are not rated in "Class 1, 2, and 3".

Metric thread fits are classified in the most common as "4, 5 and 6" with the 4 being the tightest. They also have allowance ranges, which SAE threads don't use.

And simply putting a tighter thread class screw into a loose thread class hole, on one with as little engagement area as a forend bracket, won't help much if any.

For the sake of accuracy, after all.....

"50 years in the machinest/ toolmaker trade makes me anal about correct terms."
 
Last edited:
All I can say is after using super glue on the wood the screw sits on, letting it setup well (30 minutes or so) a dab of blue Loctite and tightening the screws to a reasonable level (in this case I use common sense) as opposed to a torque driver the screws have not loosened after 7 to 8 hundreds pellets have been put through the rifle. Nor has the changing if the humidity levels allowing the wood to expand or contract loosened the screws. YMMV
 
You keep saying you buy these Class 2 metric screws, but they don't exist.

Metric threads are not rated in "Class 1, 2, and 3".

Metric thread fits are classified in the most common as "4, 5 and 6" with the 4 being the tightest. They also have allowance ranges, which SAE threads don't use.

And simply putting a tighter thread class screw into a loose thread class hole, on one with as little engagement area as a forend bracket, won't help much if any.

For the sake of accuracy, after all.....

"50 years in the machinest/ toolmaker trade makes me anal about correct terms."
Yes, should have done a better job of explaining, trying to be to brief in my explanation. As far as gaining bite, it will help, never said it would be perfect..