....with a twist. I have Chemical Sensitivity. This means no fragrances, or I could have breathing issues. So...pledge is out. Anyone know of a lube that is o-ring safe, has a wax component which is compatible with springers, that is fragrance free? Any help is appreciated.
Lube for pellets for Springers
- Thread starter Pelletini
- Start date
The only lube I’d be willing to try in a springer is pure silicone oil.
But I’m not even willing to try that. No need really.
But I’m not even willing to try that. No need really.
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I had planned on washing, drying and lubing pellets, not just for accuracy...but also to protect the barrel. Once they are washed, they will be awwwfully dry. I checked the ingredients on the two items posted. One contains petroleum distillates, the other often has orange oil. While I am thankful for suggestions, the search goes on. I have heard that Endust has a Free version...no, or low odor.
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I do not think lube is necessary . washing and drying is good , at the least keeps your fingers cleaner.
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Maybe ?
https://www.crcindustries.com/dry-graphite-lube-10-wt-oz/
Probably dump pellets in a rag then give the a quick shot and tumble buff ( shoeshine action) to apply to all pellets evenly .
https://www.crcindustries.com/dry-graphite-lube-10-wt-oz/
Probably dump pellets in a rag then give the a quick shot and tumble buff ( shoeshine action) to apply to all pellets evenly .
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I use my brass sizing lube to lube my pellets. Liquid lanolin and denatured alchol. Makes my brass size nice and smooth so figured should work with lead and steel. The reloading forums have the ratio of the mix. You can find the liquid lanolin from Rx stores or amazon. Good for skin lotion and a little goes a long way. Couple of sprays in a ziplock bag and mix the pellets around in it, then air dry.
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Recommended by the Legend himself, Tim McMurray. I personally been using it for 25 years without any issues:
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yes no lube, my testing was 4 tins / 2 lubed and 2 no lube . one day shot no lube /next day lube. repeat till pellets gone . could not see any difference at the targets or the gun barrel
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I've experimented for fps and accuracy and it had lttle or no effect, but a couple tins of pellets started to sulfate and turn to powder, so thats what gave me some interest in lube, i put a dab of this lube and a dab of barrel polish on the foam of some pellet tins so that it lubes a little and polishes a little when using that tin, have had no ill effects and gaining slight accuracy, no more powdery pellets.
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I guess was not said if your planning to relube out of the tin pellets or your washing pellets and need to relube ?
"In defense of the spring-gun guys who washed their pellets, though, some brands did have a lot of lead swarf (flakes of lead from the manufacturing process) inside some of the pellets, and vigorous washing did remove it. But then the pellets needed to be oiled again, or they would quickly oxidize."
( Why pa blog dont give links to part 2,3,4,ect is beyond me)..lol
"In defense of the spring-gun guys who washed their pellets, though, some brands did have a lot of lead swarf (flakes of lead from the manufacturing process) inside some of the pellets, and vigorous washing did remove it. But then the pellets needed to be oiled again, or they would quickly oxidize."
The benefits of oiling pellets: Part 1 | Pyramyd Air Blog
by Tom Gaylord, a.k.a. B.B. Pelletier This report will be lengthy because I want to test several aspects of oiling pellets. For starters, I want to test it with spring guns, PCPs and CO2 guns just to get a complete picture of what, if anything, oiling pellets is doing in each of those...
www.pyramydair.com
( Why pa blog dont give links to part 2,3,4,ect is beyond me)..lol
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If I ever do decide to lube pellets for my springers or pcp guns, I would definitely use something that ends up dry with no build up in the cavity if there is such a thing. I was thinking of TDS4 or maybe that Boron stuff, but figured they would build up inside the cavity. Will they build up if applied in a pill bottle floating inside some corn cob media in a vibratory tumbler? That is how I apply the powdered coatings to copper jacketed bullets.
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Been using " Beeswax" furniture polish aerosol for over 30 years in all my springers, never found anything better. Pure beeswax, lubes, protects from lead corrosion, good for blued steel, easy to clean your barrel, does not buildup, no perfumes !! Won the 95 world springun championship with it !! Use a clean cloth, spray some on it and tumble your pellets. Have some from 1990's with no corrosion on them !! Never a complaint from users of this stuff. Also great for a wood stock as well as the blued steel.
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Thing is keeping the inside of the skirt clean of combustible oils or thick stuff that can throw balance off. You get corn cob packed in sid the skirts tumbling you got your hands full of a mess..lol. Anymore i lightly coat a rag and tumble buff to coat just the outside / heads / skirts only..
Just grab the rag at the ends and shoeshine tumble and buff the pellets nice and even.
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That looks like a good way to keep liquid out of the cavity. After having some dieseling in my Dianna 54 from what I thought was a safe oil for springers, I am gun shy about using any liquid lube that could combust. From AirShot's post it sounds like a spray beeswax is the way to go for springers.
The corn cob media is outside of the pill bottle. It fills the big tub of the vibratory case cleaner so the pill bottle full of pellets or bullets doesn't get battered about. All that is in the pill bottle is the pellets and the TDS4 or Hexagonal Boron Nitride powder and some times steel BBs. Steel makes separating the pellets form the BB's easy. I think that a regular BB would be too big to keep the powder from building up in the pellet cavity.
Maybe adding some tiny steel balls that would work the inside of the cavity to keep the powder from building up in there might work. If I can find my bottle of Hexagonal Boron Nitride I might give it a try without the steel balls.
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Right now im using PS/ auto trans fluid typeF . If i think i got too much i just transfer the over lubed to another dryer rag and re buff/ tumble. Mostly when i re wet the rag after several tins it just then needs a small drop . The first time getting the rag oiled / prime is thick too much but you get a feel on just right or add a drop after that as you go. So i use the same oily rag over and over / dedicated..
You can pretty much ise what ever in the rag its getting the rag primed to apply just the right amount . I guess its a experience feel thing you learn doing it a lot.. lol
Like the spray furniture polish. Spray the rag and work it in then add the pellets and tumble buff.
Edit...
I used the word primed but i mean seasoned . So once your lube rag is seasoned right then all it needs is a drop or 2 to keep it freshened as needed ad you go ..
Sorry
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