Does anyone use lube on their ammo. I shoot nsa .93 gr. In fx impact .35 stock and jsb 81.02
Lube on ammo
- Thread starter Hoghunter11
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I use Super Lube on a Lyman case lube pad.
Put a bunch on the pad and smear it all around with a credit card or the like. After a couple hours it will soak into the pad and look dry. Then roll the slugs on it pressing down with your palm a little. That's all it takes. You don't really see the lube on the slugs but it's there.
You can also give the bore a light coat of Dow Corning Molykote M77 every 1000 rounds or so. Either push it through on a swab or patch or put it on the skirt of a pellet and fire it. This stuff is about 70% molybdenum disulphide and gets into the surface of the metal.
Put a bunch on the pad and smear it all around with a credit card or the like. After a couple hours it will soak into the pad and look dry. Then roll the slugs on it pressing down with your palm a little. That's all it takes. You don't really see the lube on the slugs but it's there.
You can also give the bore a light coat of Dow Corning Molykote M77 every 1000 rounds or so. Either push it through on a swab or patch or put it on the skirt of a pellet and fire it. This stuff is about 70% molybdenum disulphide and gets into the surface of the metal.
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I buy bees wax based furniture polish, been using this for over 35 years with not one issue. Keeps barrel cleaner and extremely easy to clean when the time comes. Keeps ammo from oxidising!! Have ammo 15 yrs old in perfect condition. No stink, enviorment friendly, not messy or sticky on the fingers. Cant think of a single negative thing about it. Carrier evaporates quickly leaving a dry wax coating that can actually improve accuracy and velocity. Sounds like a snak oil product but has been 100% sucessfull all these years. Also excellent for your wood stock and harmless to all the seals. Look for it at fine furniture stores or order thru "Annies" craft store. My home is full of custom made Amish furniture, very highly recomended by those fine craftsman. Come in an aerosol can, easy to spray on a cloth and tumble your ammo to get coated.
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I have no clue what that means but if you shoot heavy slugs the longer bearing surface will lead the barrel faster and shots will be less consistent.
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I put a tiny dot of Marvel mystery oil on the top of the tin. Then I throw a handful of pellets on to the top and kind of stir them around so they get evenly coated. A very small dot of oil works best. However, sometimes I use too much, and that doesn’t seem to bother anything.
i’ve been doing that for about 12 years. I also use it on the seals.
a guy named Jim in Michigan started out as a Theoben dealer, and then grew his Airgun business pretty big. I heard a retired, good for him. He used to repackage Marvel mystery oil, and called it Airgun pellet lube. He had a pretty good spiel to go along with it. Anyway, when I started getting into PCPs, I bought a bottle from him and started using it. Then I found out it was actually Marvel mystery oil. A friend of mine, a field target shooter shared that with me. So I bought 1 quart bottle of it. It’s still almost full. It’s a lifetime supply.
I’m sure there’s a lot of serious shooters that are going to shake their heads when they read this. I have shot a lot of really tiny groups using this formula and I’ve tried it without. I would highly recommend it.
I use it for field target competition also.
I use it with slugs, and in my big bores, slugs
and pellets
Barrels foul much less. I hardly ever clean mine. And life is good.
mike
i’ve been doing that for about 12 years. I also use it on the seals.
a guy named Jim in Michigan started out as a Theoben dealer, and then grew his Airgun business pretty big. I heard a retired, good for him. He used to repackage Marvel mystery oil, and called it Airgun pellet lube. He had a pretty good spiel to go along with it. Anyway, when I started getting into PCPs, I bought a bottle from him and started using it. Then I found out it was actually Marvel mystery oil. A friend of mine, a field target shooter shared that with me. So I bought 1 quart bottle of it. It’s still almost full. It’s a lifetime supply.
I’m sure there’s a lot of serious shooters that are going to shake their heads when they read this. I have shot a lot of really tiny groups using this formula and I’ve tried it without. I would highly recommend it.
I use it for field target competition also.
I use it with slugs, and in my big bores, slugs
and pellets Barrels foul much less. I hardly ever clean mine. And life is good.
mike
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Flintstack - I think you are saying - Less is More? if you lube, use very very very (yes, three "very's) small amount of lube. It goes a long way and you don't want it fouling your barrel.
Personally I think it depends on the gun. I've shot mine both ways, lubed and unlubed. In my case, I can't really tell a difference. I'd suggest shooting groups without, then shoot with lube. Make sure you shoot 20 or 30 rounds before shooting groups to give the barrel a chance to get an even coat of lube. Only then can you really tell.
Good luck
Personally I think it depends on the gun. I've shot mine both ways, lubed and unlubed. In my case, I can't really tell a difference. I'd suggest shooting groups without, then shoot with lube. Make sure you shoot 20 or 30 rounds before shooting groups to give the barrel a chance to get an even coat of lube. Only then can you really tell.
Good luck
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You just have to experiment with each rifle. I've used various lubes in many rifles. Sometimes I think it helps, sometimes I know it doesn't help, but never have I known, absolutely, that it helps. So, I seldom do it anymore. I would put some effort in it if I shot competitively, but second place pays the same money these days!
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I've used several different lubes through the years... Jim's mystery lube and Lucas gun oil both work pretty well like Mike said... especially with pellets in my experience!
But lately I've been using silicone spray ( CRC heavy duty ) on slugs and IMHO believe it works very well and it dries on the slug while retaining a very slick surface.
My M3 in .22 gained over 30fps over non lubed slugs and haven't cleaned the barrel in several hundred rounds...MOA at 100 is the norm with a superior standard liner!
Like was said above less is more in most cases!
Just my two cents and I know a lot of guys think it's a waist of time but I'm a believer...and no I don't wash anything either...
James from Michigan
But lately I've been using silicone spray ( CRC heavy duty ) on slugs and IMHO believe it works very well and it dries on the slug while retaining a very slick surface.
My M3 in .22 gained over 30fps over non lubed slugs and haven't cleaned the barrel in several hundred rounds...MOA at 100 is the norm with a superior standard liner!
Like was said above less is more in most cases!
Just my two cents and I know a lot of guys think it's a waist of time but I'm a believer...and no I don't wash anything either...
James from Michigan
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That's the beauty of freedom, we can all do as we like without crying because someone has a different thought on the matter.
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Here’s my take, firstly I do not lube pellet at all! Secondly if you want to lube anything it should be the barrel, “WHAT” yes the barrel.
Molybdenum disulfide or graphite, dry, no carrier or grease. Put on a bore mop and burnished into bore, this will take more than a couple passes a lot of passes back and forth. (If it’s true dry molybdenum you should wear gloves and a respirator) now mind you before you do any of this procedure the barrel has to be free of all lead and I would polish it.
If the barrel has any significant perpendicular machining marks across the barrel which is normally at the leade or crown this will be a big waste of time as will lubing your pellets, the machining marks will strip lead wether it’s the pellets or the bore which is lubricated.
This is why I don’t lube pellets. Lead is a natural lubricant and will fill minute machining marks anyway.
I’ve tried lubing pellet and bores on and off for awhile trying to improve groups! Didn’t work!
True moly! Used in high PSI, High Temp. Applications.
Molybdenum disulfide or graphite, dry, no carrier or grease. Put on a bore mop and burnished into bore, this will take more than a couple passes a lot of passes back and forth. (If it’s true dry molybdenum you should wear gloves and a respirator) now mind you before you do any of this procedure the barrel has to be free of all lead and I would polish it.
If the barrel has any significant perpendicular machining marks across the barrel which is normally at the leade or crown this will be a big waste of time as will lubing your pellets, the machining marks will strip lead wether it’s the pellets or the bore which is lubricated.
This is why I don’t lube pellets. Lead is a natural lubricant and will fill minute machining marks anyway.
I’ve tried lubing pellet and bores on and off for awhile trying to improve groups! Didn’t work!
True moly! Used in high PSI, High Temp. Applications.
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I found that any silicone oil will keep the bore from leading up. I now use pure silicone oil by Superlube and apply.it with an old JSB pellet tin with the foam. Spray the lube all over the foam and roll a bunch of slugs around the thing and just load them wet. Pure silicone oil doesn't diesel/explode under pressure. When the top of the foam get somewhat dry I flip it over (several times) there's plenty of good oil under there until I re-oil it.
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For slugs, I use 10-15 wt silicone oil. It is listed as RC shock oil on the bay and amazon. Been using it for ten years now. Fantastic stuff!
Knife
Knife
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Curious if this is similar to treadmill silicone lube. Been wanting to try as is much cheaper than RC shock oil.
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I am a Pledger, he's a Pledger...wouldn't you like to be a Pledger too?
Patches seem cleaner after shooting Pledged pellets.
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Lubing pellets (jsb) work better in my .35 fx. Can’t say the same for .93gr. nsa though. Slugs shot fine before that
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Interesting to see the varying comments. From pledge to MM oil to shock oil. Im too new to this sport. If only those manufactures knew what people were doing with their products 
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