Part 2
I always lube for Big Bore (not so much for pellet rifles, some like it, some don't) air guns because it makes for less fouling but I tested it shooting with and without and a seasoned rifle shoots a bit more accurately with it (no miracles, but 2 or 3% better on average)
I've tested a bunch of products and mixes and lots of them work somewhat and some work well. I tested the 'superlubes' and friction reducers too but I found that with some of them you get too much of a spread in velocity in your shot curve which is bad for accuracy. Remember, just because it may be a good antifouling lube if it adversely effects accuracy it's worse than having fouling.
I used many different types of sprays, wet and dry... generally adequate but none spectacular, no magic. Graphite, Moly, Teflon, silicone, WD40, Pledge, etc.
I tested all kinds of light oils: transmission, 3in1, shock oil ,Naiper, FP-10, synthetic Two-Cycle oil (it worked well to mix some solvent with it at 20:1 and wash pellets and let them dry. Leaves just enough residue to keep them from oxidation and helped as accuracy lube. Some oil on the fingers but just a trace so not too messy) and many more.....
I'm going to mention something about wet vs dry though. If I'm at the shooting bench using wet lubed and messy bullets is sort of OK. BUT, what about hunting in the field? Do you really want an oily slug there? How will you carry it easily and accessable, how much grit and crud is it going to pick up. And then you've got that oil on your fingers/hands after you've loaded so what, get it on your gun or wipe it on your pants?
I have even done a bit of testing with powder coat (great for no fouling but Questionable in accuracy, takes some time to work out the airgun vs powder burner differences in application techniques)
And using HiTek coating I did better by diluting it much more and only doing one coat, thinner was better so you don't see much of the color you see used in centerfire guns bullets.
What I worked out was using a wax lube and then started using a friction reducing powder with that.
For example using Rooster Jacket worked for less messy bullets. It dilutes with water if you want but dries to nonsoluble wax. I use a 50/50 mix and dip the bullets in it then lay them out to drain and dry. Works best if they are put on a screen to drain/dry so no thick buildup under the bullet where it lies on a flat surface. Pour the unused Rooster into a sealed container and it will be there to use next time.
Recently, I mostly use Finish Line Chain Wax + Hexagonal Boron Nitride powder (this is nicknamed 'white graphite and is VERY slick). This makes slick, no fouling bullets that don't pick up crud and grit in the field. I've shot up to 300 shots (each) from several .357 air Rifles of mine such as a Texan, Slayer and Pitbull with NO fouling. Shot 500 shots from my 257 Texan using 72gr bullets @ 1050 FPS and NO fouling with the FL+HBN lube.
I take an old butter tub and fill it about half way with bullets and squirt a bit of the Finish Line in, about 1/2 a teaspoon and then put in 10 gr of the HBN powder. Put the lid on and start tumbling it over and over for about five minutes to get the bullets completely covered. [DO keep holding the lid down do it does not pop off and make a mess] The Finish Line and HBN make a paste. Then I dump the bullets in a silicone baking mat to dry. Don't push them around, you'll disturb the coating. Finish Line has an evaporating solvent so do this where the fumes will not 'get' you. It has to dry a day or so.... I've tried putting it in a broiler or using a blow drier and caused the coating to do poorly. The bullets will have a waxy white appearance and if handled a bunch will come off but it's better than slick, oily bullets in the field. I've gotten good ES and accuracy with this 'lube'
https://roosterlab.us/ http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chain-lubricants/wax-lube http://www.microlubrol.com/drylubricants.aspx I'm using the ultra fine grade HBN from Microlubrol. I've given you the manufacturer's sites but you can shop around and find each of these cheaper
Hope this helps.
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