Lubrication ?
- Thread starter Goose07
- Start date
@darylm I apologize in advance for such a dumb question but what/where are the main components you'd apply that spray? I'm planning on doing a full disassembly of my Evanix rainstorm 3d and some maintenance/cleaning, I'm working on a detailed post including questions but I figured I'd ask you now. Once again, sorry to be a bother, but eager to learn!
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I use moly grease
Pyramid Air sells some under the Air Venturi brand.
A little goes a long way. Best practice is to wipe on, wipe off.
Pyramid Air sells some under the Air Venturi brand.
A little goes a long way. Best practice is to wipe on, wipe off.
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The trigger group for one (if needed). Some triggers are smooth and crisp right out the box and need no help. Some are “pretty good” but the graphite makes them better. Others are fairly bad. For those, parts polishing and graphite will both be needed to make them decent.
Also the moving parts of the action. Bolts, side levers, and anything that reciprocates on a semi-auto. And I’ll typically put some moly paste on the pellet probe.
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Isn't silicone oil the stuff that you use on on a springer cylinder ? They sure diesel if you use more than needed. Maybe I'm confused.
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I use this. The small container is Dow 111. I use it on my fill probes and breech oring . I like the small container also .
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Springers are an extreme case for sure. The rapid compression of air produced by the piston flying forward produces instantaneous temperatures exceeding 1000F. That's enough to broach the flash point of practically all lubricants.
So for the purposes of casual conversation, we might say silicone oil is nonflammable but not "unburnable".
For a truly nonflammable lubricant having no flash point, it must be absent of hydrogen altogether like perfluoropolyether (PFPE) lubricants such as Krytox and Ultimox.
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I didn't want someone to take the term "non-combustible " the wrong way and blow up their springer, or ruin the piston seal. I like your posts and you helped me do a qb 79 conversion by reading your older posts . Thank you.
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I brush on Moly grease on my trigger assembly, i use a couple drops of gun oil on the hammer and spring also on the metal to metal areas of the bolt and other linkages on the side levers, I use Trident Silicone grease on all O-rings and I use Losi Silicone shock oil in the fill ports and hoses, a couple drops lubes the fill port valve and O-ring, also keeps the fill probe O-rings good. any weight of Silicone shock oil works fine, just don't use Silicone grease on the Fill probe, it can plug up the air hole and won't fill the gun....
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I use the grease all the time on fill probs. Never had it hold back thousands of pounds pressure.
Straight from the manual.
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Yeah I can't fathom plugging a fill port with silicone grease. Not a Foster fitting, nor even a fill probe with a small hole. Just checked a few fill probes for the smallest hole and found a 1mm. With 3000psi trying to push through it, we're talking 90 pounds of force. In other words, imagine plugging the hole with silicone grease and then pushing a 1mm drill bit into the hole with 90 pounds of force. The silicone grease is coming out.
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I had it happen on my HW100 probe, got grease in it and it held the pressure back, I cleaned out the grease and it was fine, now I just use Silicone oil, now this only happened when I was topping off the cylinder from 2500 to 3000 psi, and I slow fill my guns so it didn't get a sudden burst of air pressure, when I pulled the probe out and open the valve on the bottle the grease blew out, I didn't realize I had gotten that much grease in it when lubing the O-rings, the probe wasn't cut deep enough where the air holes are, so there wasn't enough space for the grease to pass through easily so it just dammed up.
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