MAC1 USFT Analysis/Overview

Wait wait …., you have a Mac 1 at 20FPE?
I didn’t think you went there 😳
Its at Tims now being converted over. I figured I should get one just to have a 20 fpe gun. In case I head over to the bucket brigade to join you guys one of these days. haha you never know......BC
 
Its at Tims now being converted over. I figured I should get one just to have a 20 fpe gun. In case I head over to the bucket brigade to join you guys one of these days. haha you never know......BC
Up until last summer I was an Open class bumbagger. Switched to Hunter when I was the only guy in Open class at a couple matches. No fun being a class of one.

Which reminds me, I need to get the USFT rescoped so it could be shot in Hunter. Current scope doesn't have a 16x mark on the mag adjustment ring.
 
Finally got around to making new furniture for the Mac. Ironically the piece I struggled with the most was the cheek piece. Im still not sure that I am 100% happy with how this one turned out, but I’m out of material. The grip I got on the first try, thanks to YouTube. Not sure if was a good idea or not but I made the finger groves as deep as I could and the thumb shelf worked out well also. The forend was pretty straight forward. I just tried to get fancy and cut the block at different angles as to try and get more action for the wood grain. I did the same angle with the cheek piece. Overall I am pleased with the results. I am open to any suggestions for the cheek piece.

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Finally got around to making new furniture for the Mac. Ironically the piece I struggled with the most was the cheek piece. Im still not sure that I am 100% happy with how this one turned out, but I’m out of material. The grip I got on the first try, thanks to YouTube. Not sure if was a good idea or not but I made the finger groves as deep as I could and the thumb shelf worked out well also. The forend was pretty straight forward. I just tried to get fancy and cut the block at different angles as to try and get more action for the wood grain. I did the same angle with the cheek piece. Overall I am pleased with the results. I am open to any suggestions for the cheek piece.

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where did you get the moderator converter piece ? I have usft #233 but it has a air striper (glued?) on .
 
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where did you get the moderator converter piece ? I have usft #233 but it has a air striper (glued?) on .
The converter is actually a 16mm adaptor that i bought from Donny FL. It fit right on and works great. I put a link down below. As far as the air stripper you currently have, I’m sure that it’s solidly glued on. When I was in the process of getting my gun, I talked with Tim about getting one of his air strippers. He made it known that it wouldn’t be something that you would just take on and off between say a moderator. That they were glued on and that it would/ could take a lot of heat to remove. If I recall the word torch may have came up. I could always look back in the text conversation to be sure. He essentially talked me out of getting one. If I were you I would start with a heat gun.

 
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And the award for Best Looking USFT goes to...@oaks1450!!!!

Wowza. GREAT job. You selling USFT furniture now? Kidding....kinda.

Thank you very much! I appreciate your comment. And honestly it wouldn’t be out of the question, especially now that I have the cheek weld kind out sorted out. The forend is not that hard and the grip is just plain fun! lol.
 
The converter is actually a 16mm adaptor that i bought from Donny FL. It fit right on and works great. I put a link down below. As far as the air stripper you currently have, I’m sure that it’s solidly glued on. When I was in the process of getting my gun, I talked with Tim about getting one of his air strippers. He made it known that it wouldn’t be something that you would just take on and off between say a moderator. That they were glued on and that it would/ could take a lot of heat to remove. If I recall the word torch may have came up. I could always look back in the text conversation to be sure. He essentially talked me out of getting one. If I were you I would start with a heat gun.

i bought mine used with the stripper already on it . I have a heat gun but maybe the barrel can be put in a lathe and the part turned off ? i do not like the idea of super heating the barrel .
 
I am open to any suggestions for the cheek piece.

Maybe look into Tyroleon stocks to see if you can create a similar cheek cup. Aesthetics might be challenging, with the modern, angular approach you took, but the finger grooves have the curved, elegant approach.

And just to be clear, I like the overall modern, angular look of the general design of your cheek piece.
 
I'm really glad you chimed in here, LD.
Mine, Steve M's, and Scott R's rifles came with nice 25 shot groups in your tunnel. Mine was roughly nickel sized... I still have it. At no point have I said it was not accurate... just extremely wind sensitive. That was the reason I came early to one of your matches... to see if we could do something about that. We worked on that barrel as well as another I had purchased from Tim for several hours and neither could come close to my RN10 shooting only 13 ft lb w 8.4s. The barrel I had purchased from Wayne Burns ended up being the keeper and is what I won Open class in the Nationals with.
As a point of reference, I had two other HW's from Tim that were much better... very competitive... fitted to Sandy's ProTarget and my Theoben.
I KNOW how much effort you put into those early ones... tremendous... we are very lucky to be able to own one. The Simple Simons are even moreso...
So many fun times... wish we still could have the endurance to do those things... thank you for all that, LD...
Bob

As a post script, an accurate but wind sensitive rifle can be shot well... just increases the difficulty... myself, Steve, and Scott had our moments... many others as well, I'm sure.
Hi @Arzrover
I'm going over old posts on USFTs and ballistic coefficients. After reading your comments on barrels that were more vs less wind sensitive, I'm wondering if you measured the BC of pellets shot from each. I sometimes wonder if BC is a consistent, reliable measure of wind resistance.
Also, what do you think it is about the barrels that created such different sensitivities to wind speed? Should I buy 3 barrels and see which has the lowest BC?
Regards,
 
Finally got around to making new furniture for the Mac. Ironically the piece I struggled with the most was the cheek piece. Im still not sure that I am 100% happy with how this one turned out, but I’m out of material. The grip I got on the first try, thanks to YouTube. Not sure if was a good idea or not but I made the finger groves as deep as I could and the thumb shelf worked out well also. The forend was pretty straight forward. I just tried to get fancy and cut the block at different angles as to try and get more action for the wood grain. I did the same angle with the cheek piece. Overall I am pleased with the results. I am open to any suggestions for the cheek piece.

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Looking mighty fine - for the cheek take some clay and press it against your cheek
 
Hi @Arzrover
I'm going over old posts on USFTs and ballistic coefficients. After reading your comments on barrels that were more vs less wind sensitive, I'm wondering if you measured the BC of pellets shot from each. I sometimes wonder if BC is a consistent, reliable measure of wind resistance.
Also, what do you think it is about the barrels that created such different sensitivities to wind speed? Should I buy 3 barrels and see which has the lowest BC?
Regards,

Here's some related information to digest, if you haven't already seen it....
 
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where did you get the moderator converter piece ? I have usft #233 but it has a air striper (glued?) on .
Hey BT......the strippers are just an interference fit, sometimes with some loc tite under them. Just heat the stripper with a heat gun and it will expand the metal and it should come right off. Do not twist it if its sticky coming off, it will mar the hell out of your barrel.....dont ask me how i know from years ago...A harbor freight heat gun on setting 2 will do the trick.....easy on and off if you ever need it again.....
 
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i bought mine used with the stripper already on it . I have a heat gun but maybe the barrel can be put in a lathe and the part turned off ? i do not like the idea of super heating the barrel .
Hey BT.....see my post below...a harbor freight heat gun turned on 2 will heat up the stripper and if there happens to be any loc tite under it, which I have found before, it melts it, and expands the interference fit between the stripper and barrel, and it will slip right off....do not twist it back and forth to get it off, it will mar the hell out of the barrell. heat it up enough and it slips right off.......and back on again easily if needed....
 
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Here's some related information to digest, if you haven't already seen it....
Yes. I was thinking about all the BC testing you guys have done and reported. Did the BC's align with the wind sensitivities of the barrels that Arzrover tried in his USFT?
And thanks for all the data-based insights you, Arzrover, and other provide on this site. I have learned a lot. Hope someday to be able to contribute.
 
Yes. I was thinking about all the BC testing you guys have done and reported. Did the BC's align with the wind sensitivities of the barrels that Arzrover tried in his USFT?
And thanks for all the data-based insights you, Arzrover, and other provide on this site. I have learned a lot. Hope someday to be able to contribute.
I have seen a huge number of barrel/pellet combos over the years and some seem to be so much less wind sensitive, though not absolutely more accurate, than others. @Franklink and I have brainstormed quite a bit about it. He is quite methodical and fun to chat with on a good number of subjects though we mostly are curious about accuracy related things. We have not solved it all, of course, but there are some commonalities.
It's rare to see an inaccurate barrel give higher bc's.
Deep rifling grooves have given lower bc's.
Heavy chokes... lower bc's.
So best barrels I've seen are shallow groove or poly (no groove), light or no choke, and highly symmetrical with a gentle leade and as perfect of crown as possible. It's all about little to no damage to the projectile and symmetry for balance.
There are lots of aspects that we haven't yet tested. Two that come to mind are obturation and projectile fit. The obturation is swelling (reshaping) when the air blast hits it and could be the source of imbalance and more drag. Projectile fit is important for shaping the projectile in a consistent way.
Anyway, the test we drew the most data from was using the JSB 10.3s at as close to the same velocity as I could conveniently generate and compared the velocity lost downrange (drag) to calculate bc. The polygonal bores were generally the best with the slow twist poly, possibly being best of the bunch. If you look at the targets generated, there is a TREND but the absolute accuracy is not really a factor because the 10.3s weren't necessarily the best pellet in every barrel.
All that said, DRAG is the main factor in bc and it VERY MUCH relates to wind sensitivity. This is why we were wanting to compare all these... to try to understand why barrels of pretty equal accuracy give much different wind sensitivity with the same projectile.
I tried to run all my tests in a short time period on the same day to have as close of conditions as possible.
So now that I've gotten far away from the op... the best were likely our two USFTs with poly's.
Bob