ER collets are a good way to go because they hold plastics better than a jaw chuck. Delrin is slippery stuff and slips in a chuck. A 6 jaw is ok. The comments in post #2 about HSS are spot on. Most all hobby guys aren't willing to experiment with HSS and invest a little bit of time to learn to grind it. It's the hobby machinist's best choice. I've rarely seen Youtubers have a clue how to use it. 90% + seem completely lost when they display it in use. Took me just a little while to learn most of the profiles I prefer. Starting when I was 14 years old 50 years ago. I can buy any tooling I want yet still grind my own because it works best for me.
One of my lathes I don't often see a tangential tool holder. I might get one. The only thing is you can't turn to a shoulder, then just turn it to face your part like I can with my own grinds. Not sure I want one just to have one. Hmmm...... Talking about HSS to most guys is like speaking a foreign language,.........they don't understand.The EZ way to mess up your machining of any material is a Dull Tool Bit.
I like to use very sharp Cobalt High Speed steel cutting bits!!
I love my Diamond High speed Tool bit holder!!
But Carbide indexable tools work great too!!
No lube or cooling needed....
Has a #3 morse taper spindle. Get a #3 morse taper ER collet chuck with a draw bar threaded shank and you're good to go. Drill chucks are not for milling! Held on to the shank with drill chuck Jacobs taper (JT33 perhaps?). NOT designed for side forces. Falls out and gets ugly. Never happened to me because I know better. I wish I could say that about some other things!
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One of these would be nice for an at home shop, for making simple airgun parts. I wish they'd put a collet attachment in the press spindle instead of a drill chuck tho.
Well i dont know much about machining or anythig, i just thiught it was a neat lookin piece for someone wanting to start from nothing on a budget.
I have a couple tangential toolholders (two different sizes). I liked them for a while, but kind of fell out of the habit of using them. They use a fixture for sharpening, which seems easier to some, but you have to go get the fixture, install the tool, etc, etc. I can touch up a regular hand-ground cutter in a few seconds on the grinder with no more preparation than moving the tool over to the grinder... While you might never dull a tangential holder on plastic, if you use it for steel, the 'flank' that dulls is one corner along the length of the tool bit. This necessitates a lot of grinding to completely remove. There's another, related, design called the Wimberley that's designed to fix that. Got one. Don't really use it either.
I touch up my bits for my Diamond holder with my diamond hones.. Quick simple, maintains the Sharp cutting edge ...
Even oil hardening tool steel machines with HSS. HSS is fine on steel, just like your HSS end mills are. I never use cutting oil on regular turning jobs with steel. Only when drilling, parting, threading, trepanning, form bits, and knurling. Otherwise it's not necessary. Maybe your rake angles are off. If your angles aren't right you will not get a fine finish and cutting oil isn't the answer. Correct angles are. Make sure you have enough side rake and back rake. I think the rake angles are where people go wrong. Shear the steel, not scrape it off. That's when you get that finish that you could file your fingernails with, when it's not shearing.
That is why HSS tooling is perfect!! You can get a razor sharp edge, that is strong and resists chipping!!
And you don’t have to have expensive diamond wheels on your grinder to sharpen them like carbide.
