Hi all, new to the forum here. I have a 22 cal gen 2 marauder with the marmot militia barrel on it and a reg in it. I sent the barrel back to mr gaska once because it was shooting spirals and leading up really fast. He worked on it, while it does shoot better, I’m still convinced it isn’t right because my bone stock 25 cal will shoot just as good if not better. Last night I took it off, and tried pushing a pellet down the barrel. This thing is REALLY tight for the first 3” or so of the breech, then goes easy, then you can feel the choke tighten for the last inch or so. My question is how tight should the breech end be? I used my 17 cal 1 piece rod with a jag to push it through, if it was a 3 piece rod, it probably would have broke trying to start it. I’d imagine that once the pellet starts into the lands, there will probably be a good deal of resistance, then as the lead takes the shape of the lands, likely ease out, but just how much force should this take??? Jim no longer makes the barrels, so I’m kind of on my own as for working on it
Marauder 22 with marmot militia barrel
- Thread starter Gregw83
- Start date
More experienced folks may have better suggestions than mine, but this video popped into my mind when I read your post. Go to about 7 minutes since you have already determined where the tight spots are in the breech end.
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It shouldn’t be that tight then totally loosen up. Your crimping the pellet at the breech too much and when it gets loose the probability of burning the pellet out of the lands are high. It was a bad barrel to begin with and typical with button dies and not Hammer forged. The cheaper Turkish barrels or Chinese barrels can have issues like that as well.
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The stock barrels that crosman makes are pretty good now and don't cost much. It would probably be better for you to just replace it at this point. However you might be able to polish the first 3 inches of the barrel to smooth it out a bit. I doubt it will help much but you never know. Gluck to you.
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Unfortunately it is the hammer forged, got it when they were only $195 lol. How much lapping would it take to fix this, maybe a fine round file where the lands start then lapping compound to smooth it out???? I weld for a living and have access to have things machines if needed….though that’s typically A LOT smaller that what we usually do, I could probably be done
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You or anyone happen to know how much an LW barrel is from crosman? I’ve heard they sell them
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Hey Greg.
I'm Bill Greathouse, I picked up some of Jim's equipment when he got out of the game. I make these barrels now. If you'd like to discuss your barrel, drop me a line at [email protected]. Maybe we can get you some relief on the matter.
The TJ's liners are tight compared to most barrels. But it has been my experience that they have a peak force to move at about 15ish lbs. For .25 cal. I can't recall doing another. Break away was ~15lbs and dynamic was about ~ 5lbs to maintain movement. Once the projectile has been engraved, shop air of 150 psi will send them through 2 sides of a heavy cardboard box and bounce it around the floor. Maybe 200fps. Don't sound like yours will let that happen. Thought I'd toss it out there.
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Awesome, thanks for the info. Didn’t know you were on the forum , I emailed you about 2 or 3 weeks about a 25 barrel. (Think I’ve figured that one out, it was hitting the barrel band, took it off, and it’ll now hold moa out to 80-90 yards. I’m pretty sure it’s bowed, but the bow goes straight up, so it works out…,for now lol). My 22 barrel, not sure how much force I was putting on it, but it was easily 40 lbs or more. I’ve broken enough 3 piece .17 cal rods in my HMR to know, if I wasn’t using a 1 piece, I’d about guarantee I would have broke it. I’ve since spent more than half my Saturday lapping and polishing it, I’ve got the force needed to push it down to half of what it was.
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